Is there a way to repair damaged sandstone?

I was at a popular crag in my area today, and was horrified to discover that a crucial hold on one of the most classic climbs in the entire southeast (Golden Harvest at Rocktown) had been aggressively brushed with a plastic bristled brush and now the climb is almost unclimbable. Is there any way to safely clean or retexture the hold without further damaging it?

Unsure if that's the right approach... 

Umm what???? Is it the undercling?

Ben Evermanwrote:

Umm what???? Is it the undercling?

It's the side pull. The one you go to on the first move. Unsure if any of the other holds have been damaged.

Franck Veewrote:

Unsure if that's the right approach... 

How would you recommend proceeding?

A change in one's perception of the ultimate utility of natural resources would probably solve the issue. 

I would message the FA or whoever is a primary care taker of the wall.

Adam Brawnerwrote:

I was at a popular crag in my area today, and was horrified to discover that a crucial hold on one of the most classic climbs in the entire southeast (Golden Harvest at Rocktown) had been aggressively brushed with a plastic bristled brush and now the climb is almost unclimbable. Is there any way to safely clean or retexture the hold without further damaging it?

I’m confused... how do you know that it was aggressively brushed with PLASTIC-bristled brush, specifically?

It is unfortunate, but most highly popular classic climbs/problems get eventually loved to death. Holds break, chalk cakes, texture deteriorates, feet get ground down... I don’t think there is a solution to it. 

Adam Brawnerwrote:

How would you recommend proceeding?

I don't have one.

Just feel weird to say "I'm going to fix rock alterations with more alterations". Maybe it's now v12. 

Adam Brawnerwrote:

Is there any way to safely clean or retexture the hold without further damaging it?

Probably not ... As it is sandstone, adding something eventually come off taking more material. Trying clean it more will just add to the problem. At this point I would try to educate the community that aggressive cleaning is not in the best interest of the climbing resource.

Stoney Point is sandstone and has lost more 'classic' and 'crucial' holds than most anywhere else that people climb.  The climbs either go harder after breaking or don't go at all.  C'est la vie.  Eventually new holds get worn in if it gets climbed on and then it gets easier.  When that happens are you going to chop the big hold to put it back the way it was?  Best to just let nature take its course.

Have you tried unbolting the hold and running it through the dishwasher?

Find the responsible party, beat them senseless with a plastic bristle toilet bowl brush while repeating "nothing lasts forever". It won't repair the rock but you'll feel better.

Elmers glue cut 50/50 with water works really well for establishing a patina and is undetectable and doesn't leave a trace. Used at font a lot.

Crazy glue will harden up the holds but it will bill slick and forever have a shine to it. 

Really common to fix holds especially sandstone. I would try the elmers first. Use a nice soft paint brush and do at least 2-3 coats. Bring a rag.

thomas elliswrote:

Elmers glue cut 50/50 with water works really well for establishing a patina and is undetectable and doesn't leave a trace. Used at font a lot.

Crazy glue will harden up the holds but it will bill slick and forever have a shine to it. 

Really common to fix holds especially sandstone. I would try the elmers first. Use a nice soft paint brush and do at least 2-3 coats. Bring a rag.

+1. I've used a spray bottle for the application but a brush sounds great too. It soaks into the porous rock to help bond the grains and leaves no visible trace. 

Franck Veewrote:

I don't have one.

Just feel weird to say "I'm going to fix rock alterations with more alterations". Maybe it's now v12. 

I agree, altering an alteration is probably the wrong call. Though it is sad to see a classic ruined it would probably be worse if there’s glue and shit all over it. 

Yell until it complies with your demands, if it doesn’t then accidentally pull out your pistol and scream taser, fire rounds at it until appropriate texture is created. 

Double Dutch wrote:

You don't see this as manufacturing a hold? 

Nope. I define manufacturing a hold as chipping/hammer/filing (using a tool on the rock.) Reinforcing an existing hold by applying a water-soluble material can no way be defined as manufacturing a hold. 

Jason Halladaywrote:

Nope. I define manufacturing a hold as chipping/hammer/filing (using a tool on the rock.) Reinforcing an existing hold by applying a water-soluble material can no way be defined as manufacturing a hold. 

But the hold is gone now and therefore not an existing hold. 

Jason Halladaywrote:

Nope. I define manufacturing a hold as chipping/hammer/filing (using a tool on the rock.) Reinforcing an existing hold by applying a water-soluble material can no way be defined as manufacturing a hold. 

If you want something that will survive the first rainfall, something that isn't water soluble would be a better choice.

Reinforcing an existing hold by applying a water-soluble material can no way be defined as manufacturing a hold.

A laughable position, but whatever.