Stoney Point Wet Rock Warning

Derek Millerwrote:

Was this taken recently? If it doesn't rain, will it be alright to climb Stoney this weekend?

Derek... I do not think so. Today is Wednesday 3-17 .... Sat will be only 4 days drying out- and it’s not hot. The Huecos on top of the rocks are full of rain water and water is seeping out of the cracks below. This is the time of year for soaking wet stone, please give it some time, do it now and your favorite problem will still be intact.

But just remember this- I’m no popo, I won’t tell you not to climb, that’s entirely your call.

On another note: Kersten Hernandez has been working on a anti art removal project. She has found a commercial product that removes paint, gets neutralized by another product. She gave me a few packs of it to try out and I will on Thursday. She has used it to “clean up” some small areas and it looks promising.

I reckon we might, just maybe, remove all the “Art work” 

More on that later.

Friday up date 3-18..... I was out yesterday to walk around. I spoke with some young climbers who had driven up from the OC who didn’t know. After talking a bit they understood the deal, especially when I showed them water leaking out from the cracks. So they happily accepted the beers and I showed them some places in the GB that would be better.
Others just told me to F-off! it’s been 72 hrs, like the GB says. They went back to pulling on “The Boot” doing the Rock 1 traverse on the west side .... those flakes are getting very hollow sounding.

Back to Derek- you would probably be ok to climb there this Saturday Sunday- everyone else is, so go for it.

Me- we are going to Victorville- the forecast is for 63, sunny with no wind- perfect.

Thanks for the updates, and great to hear about all the art removal! Decided to go to Santee instead tomorrow (Sunday), I'd rather not be the person to break the holds off. Thinking intuitively, even if the rock looks "dry," if you're pulling on the holds and there is still a little moisture in there it will likely weaken them and increase the probability of breakage later on. There is always next weekend. Thanks Guy! 

Derek Millerwrote:

Thanks for the updates, and great to hear about all the art removal! Decided to go to Santee instead tomorrow (Sunday), I'd rather not be the person to break the holds off. Thinking intuitively, even if the rock looks "dry," if you're pulling on the holds and there is still a little moisture in there it will likely weaken them and increase the probability of breakage later on. There is always next weekend. Thanks Guy! 

Thanks Derek!

I’ve been climbing at SP for 48 seasons now ( scary to think about that) I have witnessed a lot of changes happen to the problems, never in a good way, during the rainy season. The parts that rip off almost always have a big “muddy part” deep down inside. This mud is the glue that holds the whole place together! Let it dry.

That awesome Guy! Makes sense, well said

This was sent to me of a hold that was broken off Mantlelobotomy. Most likely the most recent victim of people ignoring the condition of the rock but focusing more on the days since it rained.

River Simardwrote:

This was sent to me of a hold that was broken off Mantlelobotomy. Most likely the most recent victim of people ignoring the condition of the rock but focusing more on the days since it rained.

RIP 

I've been working with the developer of WetRockPolice for a few weeks now, and I've finally got Stoney Point added to the site. Big shout-out to everyone on this thread who suggested rainy day crags, and special props to Chris Owen for helping me proof and edit the copy. Send the direct link to folks, and please let me know if the information needs to be updated!

www.wetrockpolice.com/stoneypoint

Please be sure to give the full URL - the base URL redirects to the Red Rock page since that was the original purpose of the site.

I will make a separate thread for questions and feedback as well, and I'll come back to edit this post with a link to that thread.

EDIT: If you want to add feedback to the target thread, the link is here: mountainproject.com/forum/t…

Thanks for this. The more information we can get out the better.

Guy Keeseewrote:

Thanks for this. The more information we can get out the better.

Just in time for 90 at the crag!

Not necessarily rain but still some good info regarding wet rock

Chris Owenwrote:

Just in time for 90 at the crag!

That will get the stone brick hard in no time. And the rattlers will be showing up. 

hip hip hurray it’s finally raining hard. Almost 13 hours straight! We need it. If anyone wants some recommendations for granite spots- ask!

This big soak (over 4" so far) and the storm in a week should take Stoney off the list until after Christmas.  Head to Joshua tree.

A good time to bump this.

It has been raining hard for about 36 hrs… I woke up at 4am due to the rain noise. It was intense!
Time to drive to granite.
Merry Christmas to all!
Happy climbing 

Merry Christmas Guy! Snowing like crazy up here in Big Bear.

Chris Owenwrote:

Merry Christmas Guy! Snowing like crazy up here in Big Bear.

Chris Merry Christmas to you and your family and friends. 

It goes without saying- Stoney Point is going underwater.

The Oak Trees are loving it. 

Was away for the holidays, any guestimates when stoney will be dry enough to climb on?

It's been a few days but it's been cool.  If you have awareness and sensitivity of the rock you can see and feel what holds to use and those to avoid.  

If it's still damp, stay off it.  

If a hold is thin, if you feel it flex, get off it!  It will be solid again when it dries early.

You can go to the dry roof sections like Hot Tuna area if you are strong enough to do them, but you are better off going to a gym.

Some climbers have a natural sensitivity to what is loose and to be avoided.  Other just walk up and pull things apart and say, "It's not my fault." 

If you go to the top of the hill on the 118 and get off at Rocky Peak road and hike the old road on the north side up about 20 minutes you will find infinite amounts of bouldering and you don't need to worry about destroying some classic route.  There are thousands of boulder problems up there and no one ever goes there.  I predict that some day in the future, the Pad-People will discover this area and it will become the new "Spy Mountain."