Post Awesome Trad Movies Here #2

Thread drift... I think everything above on this page would be more suited for the climbing MEME thread. I'm not sure if this has been posted or not (couldn't get it to embed, but it's a great film):

https://www.redbull.com/us-en/films/cerro-torre 

Mayan Smith-Gobat climbing the Salathe Headwall

https://vimeo.com/31878065

Augie Wagnerwrote:

Bronwyn is great, always a smile on her face.  Doesn’t take things too serious and seems to always be having fun.   

Kevin Mokracekwrote:

Br is great, always a smile on here face.  Doesn’t take things too serious and seems to always be having fun.   

Love it!

Delaney Bray-Stonewrote:

Offwidth doggo is one of the most rad things I've seen on here. Thanks for posting, nice accompaniment for these post-op opiates I'm on

Offwidth Doggo for the win!

OWD: "I don't know why I am doing this but I will follow my crew to the ends of the Earth. Send Mode Engaged. YAR!"

I don't think this has been posted. Nothing cutting edge, just really nice footage of a beautiful J Tree two-pitch slab classic. 

SethGwrote:

I don't think this has been posted. Nothing cutting edge, just really nice footage of a beautiful J Tree two-pitch slab classic. 

That's also not trad... lol

Delaney Bray-Stonewrote:

That's also not trad... lol

Sure it is. 

SethGwrote:

Sure it is. 

oops you're right, I tapped out partway P1. Carry on lol

What is that weird knot he ties at the end for the master point, and what advantage does it provide? It's like a figure 8 but with an extra wrap.

Delaney Bray-Stonewrote:

That's also not trad... lol

Regardless of your missing the parts you consider "more clearly trad" all of that route is a traditional rock climb put up entirely on lead in ground up on-sight style with all bolts drilled by hand (not sure if hooks were used or stance drilled)'

In an extreme case, a bolt ladder drilled ground up is "traditional climbing".

Harumpfster Boondogglewrote:

Regardless of your missing the parts you consider "more clearly trad" all of that route is a traditional rock climb put up entirely on lead in ground up on-sight style with all bolts drilled by hand (not sure if hooks were used or stance drilled)'

In an extreme case, a bolt ladder drilled ground up is "traditional climbing".

Interesting, I did not know. Thanks for sharing!

If a power drill is used it is not trad? Seems a little contrived hah, but I guess so are many of the 'rules' in climbing.

He's not saying that.  He's just saying that ground-up drilling is bad ass.  Hand drilling maybe more so.  

Delaney Bray-Stonewrote:

Interesting, I did not know. Thanks for sharing!

If a power drill is used it is not trad? Seems a little contrived hah, but I guess so are many of the 'rules' in climbing.

No, ground up is always trad. But as I am sure you can appreciate, there are nuances that lead to some routes to be in even more "traditional" style than others. Ie a route more sparsely bolted put up ground up is better style than another that is a bolt ladder with pro every 6 feet etc. or hand drilling vs. machine or stance drilled v. from hooks.

In the late 70's and 80's routes were sometimes put up onsight and free solo (alan bartlett in tuolumne) or with one or less bolts per pitch etc. (most famously Bachar/Yerian).

Others were virtually sport climbs, well protected, but put up on lead like Hogwash a Bruce Morris classic.

All are "traditional" routes, which is "superior" is a matter of personal taste, imo, but people will disagree!

Delaney Bray-Stonewrote:

oops you're right, I tapped out partway P1. Carry on lol

What is that weird knot he ties at the end for the master point, and what advantage does it provide? It's like a figure 8 but with an extra wrap.

Yes, it’s an 8 with an addition wrap above the knot, like you said.  It helps to visually closes the system when clipping into the strands above the knot. 

SethGwrote:

I don't think this has been posted. Nothing cutting edge, just really nice footage of a beautiful J Tree two-pitch slab classic. 

Good camera work, but way too long. They should have edited it down. 

Josh Squirewrote:

Good camera work, but way too long. They should have edited it down. 

I thought the portion of her climbing was great. She had a nervous intensity. I'm glad it's longer than a few moves with shitty music.

Chris Ducawrote:

Yes, it’s an 8 with an addition wrap above the knot, like you said.  It helps to visually closes the system when clipping into the strands above the knot. 

I don't understand. In what way does it help to visually close the system? Aren't the two strands above the knot equally obvious either way?

Also, is it best practice to clip the shelf with this sort of anchor configuration? I typically use 3-point anchors with cordalette, allowing redundancy on the shelf because I can clip into multiple strands each with their own anchor piece. In this situation there is no redundancy as far as I can tell.

EDIT: Feel free to PM me please if you have the answer, to avoid spamming thread! :)