Why aren’t there bolted rap anchors off prusik?

Now that it's been a few months, has someone bolted the rap route on Prusik???

Meh...

Next year...

Mark Frumkinwrote: In the olden days, we would cut off old tat and date the webbing we were leaving behind.

Yeah is pretty simple. People just need to clean up the stations and haul it out and leave a good runner or two. Also, bolts don't last forever and eventually would need replacing too. I just don't see the need for rap bolts and besides the learning part of newer alpine climbers is figuring out how too (what's safe vrs what's not) getting off a peak/mountain safely. Not everything has to be a no brainer descent

Dan Booklesswrote:

Now that it's been a few months, has someone bolted the rap route on Prusik???

Hope not

Far too many people in this thread are imagining bolts as permanent. The unfortunate reality is that bolts, and especially bolts in extreme climates like the Prussik, eventually need replacing. Replacing bolts is a big job and it likely won’t happen in the alpine on a mountain as far back as prussik. Tat is easily removed and replaced. For that reason alone, bolts in this zone need to be absolutely necessary for me to want to consider them.

Prussik not only serves as a great training climb for bigger cascadian adventures, but it also serves as a great introduction to alpine descents on natural anchors.

There are mountains where bolted descents make sense (I.e. descents relying on cliff side trees or chossy rock), but Prussik peak’s descent is not one of them. 

if you build it, they will come

At this point, rap stations would only add to the route. I could see the argument I. The past that it took away from the purity of practice regarding tying layers of your own webbing. But at this point an exponential increase in traffic makes the solution obvious. If anyone has an open permit I would be happy to take a look into the viability of a bolted rap line. 

Beckey Chouinard on South Howser Tower has a bolted rap route and it's far more of an Alpine Route than Prusik.  Prusik is a very reasonable Car-2-Car Objective. Prusik is pedestrian.

A more interesting question is why aren't there rap anchors on the west ridge of Forbidden? 

Anchors are cool, but when's the gondola getting installed? 

F Loydwrote:

Anchors are cool, but when's the gondola getting installed? 

I am ready to chop the gondola, just don't tell the canadians...

Waste of time arguing the merits of a bolted rap station on Prusik. It'll never happen.  

I think it would be more productive to encourage climbers to quit adding tat to the point of creating an ugly rainbow rat's nest. And also encourage climbers to cut away old chord and webbing each time they rap to keep the stations looking as minimal as possible.

America: We argue over a few thimble's full of rock dust removed from a mountain we climb for a bolt anchor to rap from while entire mountains are removed by strip mining iron ore for our cars.

Just so we can claim we are superior to someone else who climbs.

Well, strip mining ore provides both cars, and jobs. Bolted anchors provides nothing but convenience. Worth arguing over its merit.

Daniel Chode Riderwrote:

Well, strip mining ore provides both cars, and jobs. Bolted anchors provides nothing but convenience. Worth arguing over its merit.

I would argue jobs and cars are just conveniences too. I know plenty of people with neither. 

if you want it, why not go do it?

Kyle Elliottwrote:

I would argue jobs and cars are just conveniences too. I know plenty of people with neither. 

I think you get my point though.

Previous posts touched on the Wilderness designation but I am going to bring it more to the forefront because it is what should be dominating the discussion. Folks should read the Wilderness Act:

https://www.fsa.usda.gov/Assets/USDA-FSA-Public/usdafiles/Environ-Cultural/wilderness_act.pdf

The purpose is perhaps the most important part because it sets the ideals for which why areas are designated as Wilderness. IMHO one needs to view wilderness as an area with a higher standard than other lands which we might otherwise recreate on. As such, when climbing in designated wilderness one should not expect conveniences such a bolted rap anchors. Further, one should not expect any rap anchors. When needed, one should have the skills to create their own anchors. Further, removing old tat is just another part of that higher standard of leaving the area better than before. As such, up your game. Carry a knife, cut out the old tat and when needed replace it.

Allen Sandersonwrote:

Previous posts touched on the Wilderness designation but I am going to bring it more to the forefront because it is what should be dominating the discussion. Folks should read the Wilderness Act:

https://www.fsa.usda.gov/Assets/USDA-FSA-Public/usdafiles/Environ-Cultural/wilderness_act.pdf

The purpose is perhaps the most important part because it sets the ideals for which why areas are designated as Wilderness. IMHO one needs to view wilderness as an area with a higher standard than other lands which we might otherwise recreate on. As such, when climbing in designated wilderness one should not expect conveniences such a bolted rap anchors. Further, one should not expect any rap anchors. When needed, one should have the skills to create their own anchors. Further, removing old tat is just another part of that higher standard of leaving the area better than before. As such, up your game. Carry a knife, cut out the old tat and when needed replace it.

You can end the thread right here.

Daniel Chode Riderwrote:

Well, strip mining ore provides both cars, and jobs. Bolted anchors provides nothing but convenience. Worth arguing over its merit.

And there you have it: Destroy a Mountain for Profit: Cool. 

That's what mine jobs are: Personal Profit. You don't strip an entire mountain down to rubble as a community good deed. You do it to make a very select few at the top rich.

Place a bolt to increase safety: Not cool apparently?

Can't make money doing community service...might even lose money on the deal...