5 free BD cams to whoever has the coolest climbing objective

I have 9 year old twins who I am trying to teach to mock lead.  I bought them some quick draws this year to start this, but there is not a lot of sport climbing in their range in our area.  A few cams would greatly open their possibilities for learning to lead.  

I'm pretty into Richard Dower's motives so far. I hope to be crushing when I'm in my 70's, and triumphing over a major fall is a huge accomplishment.

Amanda's objective is pretty rad too. I have climbed 0 desert towers, and 100 is a lot more than 0. I've seen Eiger Sanction of a few times and can confirm that the desert looks RAD. In fact, I'll switch my vote to her if I can go climb 1. Win Win.

I would throw a vote to Frank, but you just can't outfit some sport climber into the trad life to hope it sticks. They're adults and can buy their own, unless they are children in which case it is too dangerous. Plus you never responded to any of my pm's, so there. Even though I love Mont Pinacle and wish it was a hair closer for easier day trips (which of course would ruin it sadly).

Michal, that thing looks badass but also thanks for letting us all know NOT to buy your cast offs in gear swap. I do hope you get a quick and safe send though.

:)

I vote for Beckett and his 5.13 on gear goal! Despite not having a rack, I've watched him crush all kinds of hard trad routes around Eldo! Scott, I'm sure these cams have protected you on many exciting eldo routes, it only makes sense to give them to Beckett so they can do the same for him!

Having snagged the second (free solo) ascent of Trevor's rock, and knowing how badly it needs to go on gear due to the danger, I vote for him. There's a classic multipitch just waiting for some free cams to send. I will likely be belaying that attempt as well, but it's too scary for me to climb again - so if you hear of any opportunities for free jumars, hit me up.

Edit: a (failed) attempt on the far side of the crag.

Heck I want to know the name of the route and the mountain it's on in Wyoming! I love me a nice easy multi pitch when i am passing through!

Richard Dowerwrote:

Long story short: Six years ago I failed to clip into an autobelay, fell and sustained a spinal cord injury.   It has been a slow recovery but last year I finally lead a 5.11a outside.   I have slowly progressed in the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell each year after the injury.  My first 2 years I only climbed 24 routes, one per hour.  The last two years I pushed that to over  100.   I went from only 5.7 the first year back to 5.9 the next.   My best send in the 24 has been a 5.10b.   My goal this year is to climb Crimp Scampi, 5.10d, in the comp for two laps.     I will be 72 years old at the time of this years 24 HHH at the end of September.

Impressive recovery, Richard! That's an inspiration. I'll see you at 24HHH this fall.

Bump for a great thread. Having recently been on the receiving end of Mountain Project generosity, I really appreciate what you're doing here, OP.

11/10 gotez approve.

Beckett or Michal get my vote

I am probably not worthy but I am going to try and free climb Moonlight buttress this summer and would love all the cams I can get.

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Heck I want to know the name of the route and the mountain it's on in Wyoming! I love me a nice easy multi pitch when i am passing through!

It’s in the snowys. If you pass through, definitely check out vedauwoo, there are some classic climbs there, I recommend easy jam, Cornelius, slot, or anything in the beehive

I am working towards my goal fixing so much gear on the nose so that it turns into a sport climb. 

I am thinking on average going for 3ft spacings so I will need about 1000 cams.

I think of this as giving back to the next generation, some team kid is gonna come by and flash this thing once my project is done. 

Sam Rootwrote:

Awesome idea, don't need the cams but want to add to the stoke. Just put in notice to my work that I'll be taking a year off starting in June. Yosemite, Wind Rivers, Squamish, Bugaboos, Canmore Ice and much more to jam pack the year!

Dang that’s rad man. I recommend to anyone to check out vedauwoo. You should climb there because you’ll probably be passing through or getting close at least. There are some awesome climbs there

null the crew down in Ecuador couldn’t appreciate some cams more, considering the out of this earth prices of local retailers down there. We still got a lot of work to do! Felipe

Photo1: monja Grande N face 

Photo2: peña colorada (secret )

Photo3: towers of Simiatug 

 

Hey Scott,

In the early 2000's my Dad tried to FA this route. This was well before Cam technology even resembled what you are so kindly offering today. He couldn't protect the traverse move and fell after breaking off the delicate C shaped crux hold. He has been banned from returning to this location by the Assistant Crag Manager and has been ridiculed for years about it. I'd like to finish what my father started. I hiked in with a pair of binoculars the other day and think I can place one of these sweet sweet Cams to protect the runout traverse. Please help me bring life to my Father's Futuristic proj and restore our family name in the Community.

Michalwrote:

Full Pickets Traverse. Looks cool and a proper challenge. The southern part has been done a few times, as has the northern part. But linking the two has only been done once by the late Chad Kellogg and Jens Holsten. They missed a summit or two due to poor visibility so Jens may not take the FA but in my book they snagged the Full FA. 

I've been lucky enough to have done big traverses like the Full Palisades Traverse, free soloed Liberty Traverse, Index Traverse etc...  So I got the prerequisites to give it a good burn. I got two boss partners who can throw down hard in alpine.

Reason I could use the cams for the objective is literally broke every one of those sizes this last summer working a long roof crack! Sent the rig but not without breaking a ton of gear in the process. 

Gear destroying roof

90% of the Full Pickets Traverse

Plus 1 for Michal.  He’s developed so many new lines, cleaned old ones, and kept the index sandbag alive. Definitely has donated plenty of time, energy, and money to the community. Very deserving.

So I led lower slot right last year, and where that red spot is I had a panic attack, like full blown I am going to die on this climb, panic attack. I have not been able to lead on trad higher than a 5.6 since then. I have been working on leading in the gym, climbing sport routes, and placing gear. To go back and lead this is the ultimate challenge for me. It’s nothing fancy or difficult to someone else, but to me being able to lead trad had been so hard. 

Michalwrote:

Reason I could use the cams for the objective is literally broke every one of those sizes this last summer working a long roof crack! Sent the rig but not without breaking a ton of gear in the process. 

Gear destroying roof

Is that the mythical Bobcat Reality? What's the story there?

My summer objective is part of a long-term goal to climb all the routes in the old Yosemite Supertopo guidebook. I’ve been working on this goal for about 15 years. I’ve done almost 90 percent of the routes (89 percent and some change). There are 216 routes in the guidebook. This summer a partner and I are hopping on Crest Jewel, including the 10d direct start, and in late summer I’ll be getting on the Rostrum with another friend. If I tick those three off, I’ll be up to 91 percent of routes done - the only tens I won’t have ticked off yet are Generator Crack and Twilight Zone. (Partners wanted for TZ!) Those cams would be well used on more than just one objective!
(and my picture is secondary goal - running across Yosemite. I ran the north boundary to Tuolumne and then Tuolumne to the valley via glacier point last summer. Glacier point to mariposa grove is up next!)

Michael Catlettwrote:

How can you be a 5.13 trad climber and not have your own rack? 

A lot of hard sport climbing and being very poor

I plan to teach Master Gumby and Tradiban how to climb.  If I win, give my cams to Hobo Greg.

+1 for that sand bagging MF michal