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overheard at the crag: post it
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My partner yelling down to me from the 6th clip: "Do I need gear for this route?" Me : "What route are you on?" |
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After failing to finish a climb, our hero was standing on a belay ledge. The ledge is perfect for making your voice carry all over the busy crag, but he didn't realize that fact as he "quietly" says to his belayer girlfriend: This sucks! If I wanted to be in this much pain I'd go home and stick needles in my dick! |
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A few summers ago I was at Garden of the Gods (never again) with my girlfriend. Guys from TX: "how did you guys get your rope through the circles at the top?" Me: "The rings? *I give a brief explanation of cleaning*" Texan: "Oh, we just held the chains, untied, then tied back in" These dudes had never encountered anything but mussys. My girlfriend and I kinda freaked out. We packed up and started to leave but couldn't help but turn around and teach them how to clean. We didn't want to get home and hear "Texas teen dies in Garden of the Gods." |
Matt Swrote: WHAT?! They never thought of a leaving a carabiner? |
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Back in late 90s at RRG, my friends and I waited for some guys to finish climbing Fuzzy Undercling. Climber yells “watch me!” So his belayer dutifully backed up 25-30 feet to get a better view....!!! The rest of the story... 10 seconds later the Climber falls off 4th or 5th bolt. The force drags belayer across the ground then gets knocked out cold on the big rock at the base. Fortunately their gri gri held! The climber was about 4ft off the deck with his unconscious and bloodied belayer splayed out. Our crew all bought gri gris after that!!! |
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Girl to her friends at anchor of 5.6, “how do I lower?” Your probably think o god classic crag story. I offer, “ I can come show you I wanna do the climb to your right.” Her response, “nah I just rappel.” I’m confused but whatever go to bathroom 10 min away. I return about 30 minutes later and she is still on the climb. She is re ascending her rappel because it is too hard to clean. I offer, “I can get your draws since my climb shares those bolts.” Her response, “nah I’ll just lower.” Her friends are visably pissed and declare they are going home. They then ask “can he show you.” She says, “sure.” I decide I will just walk to the top to get this girl off the climb. 5 min later I’m at the top and she is on the ground and forgot her friends draws on the climb. I do the climb I originally wanted to but toss their draws onto the ground as I go up. This was a 5.6 off the ground and 5.3 the next 15 feet. I hope this girl never climbed again. |
Joseph Brodywrote: Came across a video recently of some dudes on their first trad climb ever (and clearly had never followed or set up topropes before with someone experienced) getting to the rings on a busy approach route and explain how they will now need to setup a toprope and leave a carabiner so the next people can use it. Proceeds to PAS into one bolt, and then sure enough puts one carabiner on the other bolt and lowers off to run 5-6 laps on toprope, no doubt blocking the hell out of an extremely popular staging route. |
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"On belay?" "Belay on." "On rock." "ROCK ON!"
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Joseph Brodywrote: I have a buddy who likes to use "Dude on rock", and "Rock on, dude!" in place of "climbing" and "climb on". |
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The edgy kids say: "Tamp" "Tamp on" |
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I have a buddy from the south, and when we climb it's usually "clamber" and "clamber ahn!": |
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We used to say: "You Reggie, Jackson?" "You're Ron, Jeremy!" eventually got shortened to the belayer saying "You're Ron Jeremy" |
Joseph Brodywrote: I spent a week climbing with one of their stunt doubles! |
TBlomwrote: Ha, nice Hedgehog pull! I might use that. BTW, just looked him up and he’s facing 330 years in prison for... well, you know. |
Warriors wrote: Absolutely classic haha. Doing this route on Sunday and absolutely can't wait to place some fall protection devices. Won't be doing any toproping exercises tho |
oldfattradguuy kkwrote: Please say Chad Stahelski. |
Matt Swrote: Here in Central Texas, most sport routes have easy-clip anchors and the local coalition is fine with people lowering and TRing off them. This is convenient, of course, but many of us are concerned that a lot of new climbers here won't learn how to make and clean anchors. Sometimes when they get on a route with just chains, it's a mix of comedy and fright for us when they get to the anchors. So related to that and back on topic: some version of "Hey, there are no carabiners up here; what do I do?"-- heard many times around here. |
Robert Swrote: Not to mention the fact that vast chunks of Texas have very few anchors-per-acre. I grew up in Amarillo, and we had to drive 3.5h to get to Quartz Mtn, 6 to Sandia Peak, or 12 to Hueco. It was not conducive to being aware of best practices in modern climbing. I climbed more this summer than I did in the 94-00 period I was climbing and living in the Tx panhandle. |
Robert Swrote: Lol meanwhile a lot of the single pitch trad routes at Enchanted Rock don't even have anchors |
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There was a pair of loud talkers a few routes away from me this weekend at a popular single-pitch crag. Climber 1, at the anchor : I'm gonna belay you from up here. Climber 2: Is that so that you don't have to climb it twice to clean? C1: It'll make it easier, but that's not why. no explanation why C1 wants to belay from the top Later... C1: Does your knot look like an 8? C1: slowly yells instructions for tying a figure 8 C2: Okay, now it looks like an 8. long silence C2: Wait, shouldn't it go through my harness? After making it to the top, they took about a half hour to figure out how to lower and rappel... |
