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Andrew Bisharat: "Bolting as public art"

Original Post
Dylan Colon · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 491

https://eveningsends.com/thoughts-on-the-monolith/

Choice quote: 

As climbers, we feel totally entitled to install our own bolts in rocks on BLM lands across the West. It’s not a coincidence that many of us refer to the establishment of rock climbs as an “artistic” endeavor.

I’ve heard scold-happy traditionalists argue that bolts and chalk in a piece of rock are inherently unsightly and ugly. I disagree. A piece of rock covered in chalk and bolts can be a beautiful and mesmerizing sight

Aaaaaand go!

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Beyond the obvious differences in size and scale of attention received by the Monolith, there is no meaningful ethical distinction between the installation of the Monolith and the installation of our bolts, thousands of them across Utah alone.

He's absolutely right in this and folks should heed the inherent warning that goes with it. 

The placement of the monolith on public land did not directly lead to its demise. Instead it was publicity. As an aside I didn't realize it was sketchy andy who removed it. Personally I find those highline setups a grave insult on all that is holy and sacrosanct on public lands, for example. I do not for a second subscribe to the notion of "first they came for my neighbor" alliance with highliners. That is a losing alliance, for sure. 

Anyway, the publicity of the monolith art led directly to its removal.

So what? Well... what does MP do but provide the same visibility to, ahem, climber art installed on public lands, often if not mostly without permission. So we might be presented with that strange bedfellows conundrum again, and hence bisrats blog. I say no, let them come for my neighbor, and to hell with the publicity too. If you don't want your bolts pulled from public lands maybe you shouldn't be in such a hurry to call them out to everyone's attention?

Don't publish. Keep it quiet, share only with those you trust. Make route info hard to find, again. Or you may just find climbers increasingly on the outs from public lands in general.

Jeffrey Arthur · · Westminster, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 290

I always get psyched whenever I see a cliff riddled with bolts, chalk and tick marks. I'm not even remotely joking. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, or so they say contrary to the flaming of which my response may, or may not generate.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

I started climbing in 1972 in the Gunks, before sport climbing existed and everything was "trad", including bolted routes.

Bolts have never bothered me one iota.

Dylan Colon · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 491

In my part of Europe there actually seems to be something of an ethic against publishing exhaustive information for sport climbs on the internet for free. In some cases you can buy online topos to download, or usually you just have to buy a guidebook or printed topo. Guidebook revenue also directly supports rebolting efforts to maintain crags, so this is a virtuous cycle for the most part. I was originally disappointed when moving here to find there was no MP equivalent, but now I'm not so sure its a bad thing at all. Guidebooks make great psyche fuel anyway.

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52
Dylan Colon wrote:

https://eveningsends.com/thoughts-on-the-monolith/

Choice quote: 

As climbers, we feel totally entitled to install our own bolts in rocks on BLM lands across the West. It’s not a coincidence that many of us refer to the establishment of rock climbs as an “artistic” endeavor.

I’ve heard scold-happy traditionalists argue that bolts and chalk in a piece of rock are inherently unsightly and ugly. I disagree. A piece of rock covered in chalk and bolts can be a beautiful and mesmerizing sight

Royal Robbins said creating routes is "Artistic"

Royal Robbins said Bolting is Bad.
---
What would Robbins say?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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