New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #14

Recall Silver Surfer being fairly easy up to a move and a half of delicate balance, then mostly easy to the top. Definitely recall being motivated to NOT fall on whatever pro I had going on at the crux.

I think yer gonna have quite the cheering section on this. Lori and the silver surfer will happen! 

I added basic date info to the first post in the Rendezvous thread. Here's a copy:

12/17/2020 Update! Reservations made for both June and September!

JUNE is largely book your own site, but some sites are booked that can be shared.

June 26-July 3 Idaho Bob reserved 33 and 35 (I'll paste in dates shortly)

June 28-July 7 I reserved site 34 for anyone who wants to use it, hopefully sharing.

Bob is willing to help you sort who is where, but don't assume anything for June unless you reserve it yourself, or speak to Bob about 33, 34, and 35.

I reserved my own site up the road for the June trip. It only has room for one vehicle, so that's me.

SEPTEMBER 12-21 I grabbed the Breadloaves Group site. 12-25 people, including recreational vehicles.

Some others have also made June reservations already. I was surprised at how fast its going!

Best, Helen

In case anyone else might be getting there a little sooner, I'll be arriving June 22 and ready to climb the next day. 

I’ll be basing my dates off of my employment situation. Hoping to have a better idea within the next few weeks. As of now I’m a probable yes for June.

Lori said "No really good climber will ever hand me the lead". 

Why not Lori? It's not about how 'really good' they are, it's about if you WANT to lead and if you're READY to lead. 

After being mentored and following it's up to you (and your mentor) to decide if you're ready. Any good mentor would be delighted to hand any pitch to one who is ready. That's what makes mentoring fulfilling... 

All of this great conversation aside, I want to know WHERE'S DAVE?  Someone should produce Dave Houser for me.  I climbed another one of his routes today, all for love.  I just think he should pick up the phone and call about now.  

Bob and I were out at Echo Cove, and I did just happen to have my red t-shirt along just in case.  I haven't figured out the new camera just yet, so I don't have a pic of today's route (RAF).  But so far, I believe I've covered 5 of Dave's routes... and not a word from Dave! 

Loose Lady

Chalk Up Another One

RAF

Chocolate Chips

Banana Splits - maybe 

And that leaves only 20+ routes to go, including Run For Your Life and EBGB's.  I'll just keep on going until he shows up, or I see an obituary.  

Carl Schneiderwrote:

Lori said "No really good climber will ever hand me the lead". 

Why not Lori? It's not about how 'really good' they are, it's about if you WANT to lead and if you're READY to lead. 

After being mentored and following it's up to you (and your mentor) to decide if you're ready. Any good mentor would be delighted to hand any pitch to one who is ready. That's what makes mentoring fulfilling... 

Thank you, Carl.  I am feeling somehow SO relaxed about climbing now.  Can't explain what changed, but I have the feeling 'all in good time'.  

I don't know where this goes, but I'm in no hurry.  I've felt a real sense of release, just trusting that my own skills will progress with time on the rock.  

I did take a good look at Bob's arms today which are as thick as trees and realized I might have to get back to some weights again.  I sorta floundered on another crack.  That takes every kind of strength and control... I'm assuming in time I'll be able to do a better job.  

Every day is a learning day.

“But working really hard and with full commitment I may one day be “the best climber I can be”.

That’s the correct way to look at “It” and if you give yourself totally to “It” you might be surprised  at the outcome. One climber who showed all of US the way- Ed Webster- had an early article where he talks about “getting into the sweaty weight room with football players all winter long- made the 5.10s that were so hard the season before seem trivial that spring” .... or something along those lines.
Lifting weights really pays off! Get some professional help so you don’t hurt yourself please but a 90 day program might do wonders for your climbing. Do some running too.

The leading will happen organically.

So far we have had a good fall season, no.

I climbed the loose lady in 1993. When I saw that on your list, I was flooded w a lot of good memories. Those climbs are solid accomplishments in my opinion.

Got out for some sports leading today. Did a 'nothing' 11 (but it was good just to get in to the mode) a 16 and then tried the 23 I've being attempting lately. Still no banana, a few sits. Tried it after on TR and did it WORSE! Seems I'm more focused when leading, maybe? 

Guy Keeseewrote:

“But working really hard and with full commitment I may one day be “the best climber I can be”.

That’s the correct way to look at “It” and if you give yourself totally to “It” you might be surprised  at the outcome. One climber who showed all of US the way- Ed Webster- had an early article where he talks about “getting into the sweaty weight room with football players all winter long- made the 5.10s that were so hard the season before seem trivial that spring” .... or something along those lines.
Lifting weights really pays off! Get some professional help so you don’t hurt yourself please but a 90 day program might do wonders for your climbing. Do some running too.

The leading will happen organically.

So far we have had a good fall season, no.

I had to laugh at "get some professional help" because at this point I'm thinking I might need some.  A good shrink is in order here.    

I woke up thinking about that crack... trying everything I could think of to make some progress, from finger jamming to gaston.  It honestly felt like I couldn't get all my limbs to cooperate.  I'd maybe get a toe in that crack, but my hand would fall out.  Finally, if I organized all body parts, it came down to core strength.  It takes strong pull and strength to move up a crack.  

When all else fails I go to how close 67 is to 70, and how close that is to the grave.  Maybe I'm too old for this.  In the middle of the night I asked Tony "Why did I spend 40 years raising ungrateful children when I could have been crack climbing?"  It was a serious question.  He said "Lori, you played the hand you were dealt. Now you have a fresh hand.  Play it."  

Ok, then.    

40 yrs raising ungrateful children when I could have been crack climbing. That is excellent.

Carl Schneiderwrote:

Got out for some sports leading today. Did a 'nothing' 11 (but it was good just to get in to the mode) a 16 and then tried the 23 I've being attempting lately. Still no banana, a few sits. Tried it after on TR and did it WORSE! Seems I'm more focused when leading, maybe? 

Carl is 23 a 5.11?

Lori Milaswrote:

Maybe I'm too old for this.  In the middle of the night I asked Tony "Why did I spend 40 years raising ungrateful children when I could have been crack climbing?"  It was a serious question.  He said "Lori, you played the hand you were dealt. Now you have a fresh hand.  Play it."  

Ok, then.    

And this, from John:

"You are never too old to become younger."

I am just back from the final Boise Farmer's Market until April 2021. Drive through, contactless, pickup, managed with all volunteers. Playing the extemely shitty hand they were dealt. I have always opted in for local food, this year more than ever.

And?

On the way to the local coffee place, I passed the closed streets adjacent to the Boise Bicycle Project. Today is their annual bike giveaway, hundreds of bikes. And helmets. And safety instruction. And bike cops helping out. Again, a huge volunteer effort. They do bikes for those who can't afford them, all year, but this is the big Christmas event. A fair bit of their clientele are homeless folks and refugees. 

These organizations have been operating for years. And many others too, of course. 

The greatest gift I have ever had? 

Having the opportunity to be generous to others. Sometimes planned, sometimes spontaneous. It has nothing to do with having resources, either. It's all about heart. I have remembered a story, which I will pop up in a separate thread. 

Best to all of you! Helen

That's a mighty fine looking hunk of pastry there!

Brandt Allenwrote:

That's a mighty fine looking hunk of pastry there!

Hey, James Beard nominee bakers... 

The bread is cranberry sourdough. I've purchased from this couple literally from their "experimental" day one at the farmer's market!

Boise is a terrifically great place to be a local foodie!!

H.

Edit to add, here's the story I posted. https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/120084960/a-christmas-story

Lori Milaswrote:

When all else fails I go to how close 67 is to 70, and how close that is to the grave.  Maybe I'm too old for this.  In the middle of the night I asked Tony "Why did I spend 40 years raising ungrateful children when I could have been crack climbing?"  It was a serious question.  He said "Lori, you played the hand you were dealt. Now you have a fresh hand.  Play it."  

Ok, then.    

Haha, I'm stuck with how close 77 is to 80, so from my perspective you've got at least another ten years.  We will both go to the grave without having perfected all aspects of our chosen craft, and with some regrets about what we didn't have time to do because we were busy playing the hand we were dealt---the hand of life. But having one foot in the grave and the other on a bananna peel tends, at least for me, to trivialize all these concerns.  The sun is out, the wall glistens,  a struggle is in the offing---and struggle is what climbing is about. It wouldn't be climbing if success was guaranteed, and let's face it, not every hand is a winning hand, the point is to play the game.

Not a frequent patron of the farmers' market (though our local grocer sells a lot of locally grown stuff), but we're doing our best to keep the local restaurants in business.    

rgoldwrote:

  It wouldn't be climbing (edit: or real life) if success was guaranteed, and let's face it, not every hand is a winning hand, the point is to play the game.

Words of wisdom.