New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #14

Carl Schneiderwrote:

One doesn't need Thanksgiving to stuff one's self and be overfed and lazy. Last night's tea was falafels, but I demanded a falafel BOWL, (that is, a falafel sans bread) as I was shunning the carbs. Cindy was MOST annoyed asking me if I knew how annoying I was, saying she KNEW I'd go and get junk food out the cupboard anyway. I was ADAMENT I wouldn't and had the falafel bowl (no horrible bread). 

Well, of course I had also three bowls of Pringles (do you have Pringles? Like chips, but in a tube), and two pieces of bread and butter and peanut butter with gherkins. Yes. That's right, peanut butter with sliced gherkins. Oh, and Roll mops and sour cream. Roll mops are raw Herring fillets, pickled, and wrapped around gherkins. I think I may be 'with child'... 

Carl, you are not a moderate guy, are you!  I have the deepest admiration for Cindy.  

You brought up a sore subject, though.  One of our non-divorcing family members extracted a promise from me to eat some herring... and I never break a promise.  This was at least 5 years ago--I'm just trying to work up the appetite.  It was a promise I gave in exchange if he would try some natto...  a fermented soy bean rich in Vitamin K2, but which tastes like old socks and has thick strings of mucus. (I actually like natto)  He ate the natto.  He's been trying to cash in on the herring promise, and so I have received bottles of pickled herring for my birthday, a herring book and china plate with a herring on it for Christmas, dried herring at Easter, a UPS delivery of fresh herring at my business... your description of a roll mop is causing me anxiety.  I guess it's time to pay my debt.

(Yes, we have Pringles)

Bob Gaineswrote:

Years later I was actually hired by the Marines to observe/audit their SOTG Mountain Warfare course at their Bridgeport Mountain Warfare Training Center.

That's pretty cool.  Our initial "Mountaineering" instruction was provided by an Army Ranger that was getting ready to retire.  He was the lead instructor for the ranger climbing program at Mt. Yonah in GA.  A good portion of the mountain was closed off for their training.  

Cool. It's been an honor for me to work with our Military Special Forces. In recent years I've taught a few AMGA SPI Certification Courses and Exams for Marine SOTG Instructors who teach the Cliff Assault Course to the Marines. Over the years I've worked more with the Navy SEALS (Naval Special Warfare Development Group) than any other group. From 1985 to 2000 I worked at least one 10-day trip a year (at locations all over the country) with members of SEAL Team 6- it was awesome! I still keep in touch with some of those guys. 

Some Team 6 guys came out to Joshua Tree for a little 3-day refresher course with us on small team rescue skills just before the Bin Laden raid.

Bob Gaineswrote:

Cool. It's been an honor for me to work with our Military Special Forces. In recent years I've taught a few AMGA SPI Certification Courses and Exams for Marine SOTG Instructors who teach the Cliff Assault Course to the Marines. Over the years I've worked more with the Navy SEALS (Naval Special Warfare Development Group) than any other group. From 1985 to 2000 I worked at least one 10-day trip a year (at locations all over the country) with members of SEAL Team 6- it was awesome! I still keep in touch with some of those guys. 

Some Team 6 guys came out to Joshua Tree for a little 3-day refresher course with us on small team rescue skills just before the Bin Laden raid.

Thanks for your contribution to these people who contribute so much to their country.

Thanks Idaho Bob. Our Military Special Forces truly are our national treasure.

Bob Gaineswrote: One thing I noticed is that all the students, and most of the instructors didn't seem to enjoy rock climbing. The main reason was that they never felt secure or confident climbing in those damn combat boots. My main recommendation was to use climbing shoes! They had full racks of cams up to #4 camalots but no climbing shoes. They were missing THE most important piece of equipment for cliff assault! Kind of like going ice skating without skates.

One of the instructors explained to me that they climb in combat boots because, at least at the Marine infantry level, they aren't climbing as a special purpose thing but, rather, because sometimes terrain gets in their way. So in the field they would NEVER been carrying rock shoes to strap on and enjoy a nice foot jam.

I suspect that's different when you get into the military rescue guys and also, extremely specialized forces like the SEALS. 

The SOTG guys are the Marine Special Forces (Special Operations Training Group). When I audited their SOTG Cliff Assault course they asked for recommendations. The Marine assault climbers are the guys who'd actually scale cliffs, climb up and down to build Tyrollean traverses across rivers, etc. 

In their "climber assault package" shipped over to Afganistan, they'd have a double rack of cams, helmets, all the usual climbing gear, etc., EXCEPT for climbing shoes. My main recommendation was to include climbing shoes in their package, both in their training and in the field, since if they did need to perform an actual "cliff assault" they only need a few lead climbers to lead or solo up and fix lines for all the other guys to ascend. All the other Military Special Forces lead climbing teams (Rangers, Delta, SEALS) use climbing shoes, except for the Marines Special Forces.

Bob Gaineswrote:

The SOTG guys are the Marine Special Forces (Special Operations Training Group). When I audited their SOTG Cliff Assault course they asked for recommendations. The Marine assault climbers are the guys who'd actually scale cliffs, climb up and down to build Tyrollean traverses across rivers, etc. 

In their "climber assault package" shipped over to Afganistan, they'd have a double rack of cams, helmets, all the usual climbing gear, etc., EXCEPT for climbing shoes. My main recommendation was to include climbing shoes in their package, both in their training and in the field, since if they did need to perform an actual "cliff assault" they only need a few lead climbers to lead or solo up and fix lines for all the other guys to ascend. All the other Military Special Forces lead climbing teams (Rangers, Delta, SEALS) use climbing shoes, except for the Marines Special Forces.

Excellent advice. 

I had a great climbing day today. Went outdoors top roping with the young lady I've been doing indoor top roping with lately. We got on a 16, 18 and 21. Her partner turned up half way through to have a climb or two and we shared a rope on the 18 with a couple of ladies I'd never met. 

A fun day sharing beta and hanging out. 

I climbed everything cleanly but I don't think anyone else did (I'd climbed them all previously but couldn't remember the 18). I'm a conceited twat I guess but it was nice being the oldest person there but the only one to climb everything clean. 

It's coming up to 9 years scince I started climbing at 50 and I feel I'm starting to get to the point where I have a library of experience to draw from... 

I felt really good and strong and happy today. 

Now I'm having a few beers and shaving as a man should, with a straight razor... The focus required to shave like this is similar to the focus required to climb (esp leading) and ride a motorcycle. 

I like focusing, it makes me dump baggage; it makes me forget the things I don't like. 

I was watching a Master Class with Misty Copeland last night (an incredible ballerina with the American Ballet).  She was inspirational and most of what she had to say could directly translate to the art of rock climbing.  The things that hang us up... comparisons, self-doubt, fears about the effects of aging and the fear that we will never achieve what we want to do.  I thought I'd share a little of her dialogue here, I took special note of the fact that Misty has completely revamped her training...it's a 'barely there' minimalist workout that is totally effective.  

Misty Copeland

We are constantly pushing ourselves for perfection, knowing that we will never achieve perfection.   Nowdays we get so caught up in this outer experience (of what others are doing), but what makes us so special is that every morning you wake up with a body that is different.  You have another chance to be reborn.  I know how difficult it can be to not be taken over by criticism, whether its by a teacher, or yourself.  You have to get back to that place of why you do what you do… it’s about bringing yourself.  

Regardless of your body type or perceived limits, you can have the confidence to accept who you are and embrace who you want to be.  

You have to be constantly open to starting over.  I don’t truly believe you can only succeed at one aspect of your art, if you have the right training you can accomplish everything… I believe that a lot of the injuries I have had are because of not knowing how to work correctly.  I have started over, I do have the ability to strengthen my body and have it do whatever it is I want it to.  

Crazy how your emotions are so connected to your body, and your confidence.  I go back to what it’s all for… to tell a story, to bring yourself to the endeavor.  It’s not about how much, how many.  

One thing you can do to be ready for a performance is to do the work in the studio or gym.  It’s about quality work.  You don’t have to go to the gym and do all this extra work in order to prepare to do what you want.  When you are working correctly and building the right strength, it doesn’t take you much to get warmed up, repetition isn’t always the best thing for you.  It’s about quality work.  

The less you do in terms of your workout, the more energy you save.  Less is more. You can reinvent yourself as an artist and an athlete.

As a side note, one of the blessings of being home more this year is the discovering of MasterClass on line.  You can choose any class and watch it in segments, there are a hundred different ones to choose from--playing poker, cooking, decorating, dance, gardening... I took Jimmy Chin's master photography class, and also one on Texas-style barbeque.    

The great American philosopher Yogi Berra once said " Baseball is 95% psychological & the other 50% is mental."

Take out Baseball & put in climbing or anything and you are on the right track.

Actually, I saw him say it in an interview before the start of the world series between the N.Y. Yankees & the L.A. Dodgers about Reggie Jackson.

I also heard him say "I did not say half the things I said."

Russ Walling wrote:

The actual quote is "Baseball is ninety percent mental. The other half is physical."  FiveTen used this in an add once with “climbing is 90% mental. The other half is rubber” as the founder and inventor of C4 rubber Charles Cole was a big baseball fan.

Doubt Yogi knew the word psychological.

edit to add:  yogi had some great quotes.  Here are a few more:

"All pitchers are liars or crybabies."

"A nickel ain't worth a dime anymore." Source: Baseball Digest (June 1987)

"Bill Dickey is learning me his experience."

"He hits from both sides of the plate. He's amphibious."

"How can a you hit and think at the same time?"

"I always thought that record would stand until it was broken."

"I can see how he (Sandy Koufax) won twenty-five games. What I don't understand is how he lost five."

"I don't know (if they were men or women fans running naked across the field). They had bags over their heads."

"If people don't want to come out to the ballpark, how are you going to stop them?"

"I'm a lucky guy and I'm happy to be with the Yankees. And I want to thank everyone for making this night necessary."

"I'm not going to buy my kids an encyclopedia. Let them walk to school like I did."

"In baseball, you don't know nothing."

"I never blame myself when I'm not hitting. I just blame the bat and if it keeps up, I change bats. After all, if I know it isn't my fault that I'm not hitting, how can I get mad at myself?"

"I never said most of the things I said."

"It ain't the heat, it's the humility."

"It gets late early out there."

"I think Little League is wonderful. It keeps the kids out of the house."

"It's like deja vu all over again."

"I wish everybody had the drive he (Joe DiMaggio) had. He never did anything wrong on the field. I'd never seen him dive for a ball, everything was a chest-high catch, and he never walked off the field."

"Little League baseball is a very good thing because it keeps the parents off the streets." Source: Catcher in the Wry (Bob Uecker)

"Ninety percent of this game is half mental." Source: Sports Illustrated (May 14, 1979)

"Nobody goes there anymore because it's too crowded."

"So I'm ugly. I never saw anyone hit with his face."

"Take it with a grin of salt."

"The game's isn't over until it's over."

"The towels were so thick there I could hardly close my suitcase."

"You can observe a lot just by watching."

"You should always go to other people's funerals, otherwise, they won't come to yours."

"You've got to be very careful if you don't know where you are going because you might not get there."

"We made too many wrong mistakes."

"When you come to a fork in the road, take it."

"Cut my pizza into four slices. I don't think I could eat six."

Another great American philosopher Evil Knievel  once said " If it's possible it's been done, If it's impossible it will be done." 

Went Rockclimbing!!!! A quick trip to A-Hills, did a few laps on “Southern Blonde” 10a... 18 for you Australians. I was able to show off my acquired knowledge of the place to my young friends. Took them to the sunniest face around after a cold night- 19 degrees - and a healthy breakfast of Bacon and coffee.

Jordan getting lowered off of “Blonde”. Note: in full sun after sun-up... cooks up nice, to medium rare by 9am.

After getting use to having my calf’s going to “full pump” I was able to enjoy myself and stand on my feet and relax.

We also went out to “Crystal Ridge” located on the lonely eastern side of the Ownes Valley.

Look at this one!

Really nice big ass Boulder about 25 feet tall with no EZ way up or down.

I found the RV I need for a happy retirement- 

4 Wheel Drive self contained home.

I hope everyone had a great T-Day

EDIT to add. Those Military people are awesome- they exist in a world very different from you and I - a different reality.
True Story- One time we were hanging out at some bodies home in Joshua Tree - drinking. A few of these Seals were there also- drinking. After a hard day of training. One of the “Instructors” was there. One of the Seals made the claim that he “could take” the instructor, who was armed with a “squirt gun” already in hand, without getting hit. The challenge was on! The Instructor in one end of living room- the Seal- at the other end. At the signal- GO- the Seal drops and moved sideways grabbing a table lamp! “Instructor” gets off a shot that goes way hi! “Seal” throws the lamp- hard - at “Instructor” who ducked! At the same instant the “Seal” follows the lamp and flies over the couch and tackled “Instructor” by his throat... knocking the wind out of him! Two lessons here. #1 don’t mess with a Seal and #2 (lesson for Lori) Don’t let Drunken Climbers into your home- unless you can take the mayhem.

Guy Keeseewrote:

I found the RV I need for a happy retirement- 

4 Wheel Drive self contained home.

I hope everyone had a great T-Day

Oh, man. The only thing lacking there is a a tip up dump truck system for ejecting unwanted guests after they linger too long.

Guy Keeseewrote:

Went Rockclimbing!!!! A quick trip to A-Hills, did a few laps on “Southern Blonde” 10a... 18 for you Australians. I was able to show off my acquired knowledge of the place to my young friends. Took them to the sunniest face around after a cold night- 19 degrees - and a healthy breakfast of Bacon and coffee.

Heather leading the 5.9...

Jordan getting lowered off of “Blonde”. Note: in full sun after sun-up... cooks up nice, to medium rare by 9am.

After getting use to having my calf’s going to “full pump” I was able to enjoy myself and stand on my feet and relax.

We also went out to “Crystal Ridge” located on the lonely eastern side of the Ownes Valley.

Look at this one!

Really nice big ass Boulder about 25 feet tall with no EZ way up or down.

I found the RV I need for a happy retirement- 

4 Wheel Drive self contained home.

I hope everyone had a great T-Day

EDIT to add. Those Military people are awesome- they exist in a world very different from you and I - a different reality.
True Story- One time we were hanging out at some bodies home in Joshua Tree - drinking. A few of these Seals were there also- drinking. After a hard day of training. One of the “Instructors” was there. One of the Seals made the claim that he “could take” the instructor, who was armed with a “squirt gun” already in hand, without getting hit. The challenge was on! The Instructor in one end of living room- the Seal- at the other end. At the signal- GO- the Seal drops and moved sideways grabbing a table lamp! “Instructor” gets off a shot that goes way hi! “Seal” throws the lamp- hard - at “Instructor” who ducked! At the same instant the “Seal” follows the lamp and flies over the couch and tackled “Instructor” by his throat... knocking the wind out of him! Two lessons here. #1 don’t mess with a Seal and #2 (lesson for Lori) Don’t let Drunken Climbers into your home- unless you can take the mayhem.

This sounds like way fun and sort of reminds me of a time when I told some friends I’d like to experience a tackle football game... not flag... and after some convincing said friends agreed to a New Years Eve tackle game in our neighborhood park. All was going well, until I got tackled. It knocked the wind out of me and I was laid out on my back wondering if I would ever breathe again... with some VERY sorry friends gathered around. That was a total surprise and the last tackle game I ever played but it was a whole lotta fun.

Honestly, I wish I climbed the way your Seal fought... as Tony says “leave nothing on the table.”  I’m still timid and careful and... old.’  but my heart is carefree and wild. What I see on the video playback is NOT the woman who was climbing. 

So what’s this camper...and can we time share?

And where’s Helen? 

Lori Milaswrote:

This sounds like way fun and sort of reminds me of a time when I told some friends I’d like to experience a tackle football game... not flag... and after some convincing said friends agreed to a New Years Eve tackle game in our neighborhood park. All was going well, until I got tackled. It knocked the wind out of me and I was laid out on my back wondering if I would ever breathe again... with some VERY sorry friends gathered around. That was a total surprise and the last tackle game I ever played but it was a whole lotta fun.

Honestly, I wish I climbed the way your Seal fought... as Tony says “leave nothing on the table.”  I’m still timid and careful and... old.’  but my heart is carefree and wild. What I see on the video playback is NOT the woman who was climbing. 

So what’s this camper...and can we time share?

And where’s Helen? 

When I was in the army at the school of artillery I remember diving a cross the room to land on a table full of empty beer cans to tackle a fellow soldier and then leapord crawl all the way across the mess. Everything was a challenge, some were very immaproproate and not for for female ears... 

"Where's Helen?"

I am having an....odd....day. In the strange way these things sometimes go, just about the same time my best friend became a dad for the second time, today, I was on the phone with the vet. The most elderly old cat is pretty much at the end of his life now. I'm giving him tonight at home. Then the vet in the morning, if he doesn't depart tonight.

Yes, he winks. Mr. Sox, 18ish, recently supervising some rope stuff. Reepschnur rappel rigging, if memory serves.

Best, Helen

Funny thing happened at the bouldering club tonight. A new guy turned up, probably in his late teens, early 20s. Big looking guy. I overheard him tell someone he plays rugby. He was trying a few problems and I suggested one for him. He gave it a few goes and couldn't do it. Then a young girl gets on it and does it and I do it a few tines too. I overhear him say "bloody hell, I'm going home, I can't even do this climb and a six year old girl can do it and some old guy does it three times". 

Then I overhear him discussing beta with a few young fellows, he says "The old guy grabbed this hold then reached through for this one..." etc. I had been showing them how to cross rather than match as a couple of them were getting wrong handed. 

So I walk up and say "what did the old guy do?"... He turns to me looking a bit sheepish and says "sorry, I didn't know your name". 

I thought it was funny being labelled 'the old guy'...