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Best Arete Climb?!

Adam Gallimore · · Greensboro · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 486

Thanks for the replies everyone! I added some of your suggestions to my to-do list. Personally, one of my favorite aretes I've done is at a secret crag in the blue ridge mountains of NC. Probably goes at 11b. The last time I was on it, I got through the crux no problem, but as I was nearing the top I ripped off a "good" jug and took a nice 20-footer. What makes things even better is my partner had forgotten his harness that day so we fashioned one out of slings. He then proceeded to unknowingly catch me in said harness LOL!

Michal · · Index WA · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 1,293

" Ecstasy"or "South of Heaven"

Norman Pelak · · Merced, CA · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

Lightning Rod Arete in RRG!

Will Maness · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 126

There's some cool arete climbs, or at least climbs that involve aretes, at the New:

Two-Tone Arete, Two Bag Face, The Prowesse, Angel's Arete, Party Till Yer Blind....

Chris Jones · · Winston-Salem, NC · Joined May 2018 · Points: 200

Saw this one on Reddit/r/climbing the other day.   Its not SE but captivated my imagination.

Spank the Monkey

Type: Sport

Grade: 5.12a | 7a+ | VIII+

Height: 85 ft/25.9 m

Rating: 4/4

Located in Smith Rock, Oregon

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105892195

Edge of a Dream at Ship Rock is in the SE and is quite picturesque for a 5.7 https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106135677/edge-of-a-dream

Derek Jones · · Winston-Salem, NC · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 53

I haven't climbed this, but the picture looks amazing and is in the SE.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/119035128/sunny-side-of-the-moon

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 434

There's an amazing-looking arete at Foster Falls which I thought was on my To-do list, but now I can't find it. :(

Jeff Blockwick · · Longmont · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 30

Yellow Spur in Eldo! Great Climbing and amazing exposure!

John Ryan · · Poncha Springs, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 170

In the south....Commodus, 10b

John Ryan · · Poncha Springs, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 170

+1 for Bullet the Blue Sky in Colorado 

Chuck Parks · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 2,190

Here's a classic in the southeast for ya:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105903264/stepping-stone

Ethan G · · Bellingham, WA · Joined May 2017 · Points: 20

If there were climbing in the South I would recommend Stepping Stone too. Haven't done it but heard good things. Also, not technically "the South" but the Decameron is really great and less of a commitment.

Eliot Hack · · New England · Joined May 2020 · Points: 1

Whitney Gilman cannon cliff 

Mention earlier.


pinnacle buttress is also cool, but less of an arette  

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,717

This somewhat hidden gem at the Gunks. Not the best, just neat.

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 434
Gunkiemikewrote:

This somewhat hidden gem at the Gunks. Not the best, just neat.

Not sure I know that one. Is that the arete at Giant's Workshop, to the right of Intruders?

Matt Simon · · Black Rock City · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 203

The Feather Arete on Feather Buttress in the Winds. It’s unreal.

Distant second: Ginger Buttress > Blade Runner.

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Some cool climbs listed here. A buddy and I did the fa of an arete that looks like a granite version of Bullet the Blue Sky, overlap included. Never noticed the resemblance before.

I can't think of any best-ofs, unfortunately.

Louis Weiher · · Milwaukee · Joined May 2013 · Points: 5

It’s only one pitch, but Rebuffats Arete is fantastic.   mountainproject.com/v/10809…

tdoughtyjr · · Paonia, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 5

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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