overheard at the crag: post it

Overheard climbing at Vantage from a bunch of dudes flailing on a 10c sport route: "Dude, I don't dyno. Or run. Those are stupid. Why run when you can smoke weed?"

Climbing in the creek in the summer, was fine in the shade and cooler than SLC and surrounding areas but still in the high 80s. 

Had super crack buttress all to ourselves but slowly the shadows started creeping towards the base and started to pack up. 

3 Germans arrive at the base of IHC and start eyeing up the pffwidth to the right of it.

Me: "uh hey guys this is about to be in the sun in about 10 minutes"

"..."

"There's a lot of other crags about to go in the shade, I can let you take a picture of my guidebook if you want"

"Its okay"

Wild 

This morning heard a group of guys yell "The hold you have is an A, there is a Double D two feet higher to the right" 

Russell C wrote:

This morning heard a group of guys yell "The hold you have is an A, there is a Double D two feet higher to the right" 

Anything more than a handful is aid.

Krimpit thee Frog here wrote:

"...Bro, I dont have health insurance"

All too common of an excuse for anything really.  That and "I have kids now". 

Lowering my buddy and some guy comes up with a bouldering pad and sets up directly underneath where I’m about to lower him.

”hey I’m lowering him to right there”

“ok no problem man”

I wanted to say get the fuck out of the way but resisted.

me “are you bouldering here?” (this is a single pitch crag, no boulders around).

“yeah this is a really good boulder problem. Very intricate. blah blah blah. You have to look at it on the micro AND the macro level. Blah blah blah“

at which point we walked away before this clearly insane person raped us. 

Petsfed 00 wrote:

About 10 years ago, I was on Osiris at Lumpy Ridge and watched something similar on an adjacent route, except the fateful line from bro to struggling soon-to-be-ex girlfriend was "c'mon babe, it's not that hard"

And it took absolutely everything I had not to burst out laughing. And then we took a wrong turn and epic'd. But mainly I remember that dude digging his own grave.

Lol! I broke up with my gf about 19 yrs ago after mistakenly taking her up that route. Lets say that our relationship was already tenuous at best before we arrived at the base of Osiris. We were both gumbies but I had maybe 1 yr more experience.  She absolutely had zero crack technique (oops, my bad) and I had no idea what a sufferfest she had in store on that 1st pitch. The rest of the pitches weren't that much better for her and after that day, we were no more.  Cant say I blame her. Might be something in the name?

Krimpit thee Frog here wrote:

Warm up route at smith. 

"Dude you should go for it, it's within your grade"

"...Bro, I dont have health insurance"

This is actually super common from a lot of the climbers/van life people I meet and climb with on the road. 

Saw this the other day. First time ever. Stick clipping in a gym.

Ryan Wood wrote:

Saw this the other day. First time ever. Stick clipping in a gym.

Maybe she’s learning how to do it?  She looks hot from here so she can do no wrong.

Ryan Wood wrote:

Saw this the other day. First time ever. Stick clipping in a gym.

Bruh moment

Ryan Wood wrote:

Saw this the other day. First time ever. Stick clipping in a gym.

Maybe they don’t have health insurance?

Mike S wrote:

Maybe she’s learning how to do it?  She looks hot from here so she can do no wrong.

Haha no this has been observed countless times. There are actually multiple groups doing this at this specific gym... never seen that before.

And to each their own, but her and her partner are salty pricks (which is hard to be at a gym), so I pass judgement

At Crowded Mtn near Charlotte NC: “Damn, those guys are climbing all the way to the top of that thing. Oh hell naw.” Proceeded to ignore them as they blasted eye of the tiger on their boom box.

Later that day: “How do you guys get down? Do you climb back down or walk around?”

Whatever you do, avoid Crowders on a busy day.

Ryan Wood wrote:

Saw this the other day. First time ever. Stick clipping in a gym.

If I had an option to stick clip 1st bolt in a gym, I would sometimes chose to exercise that option.
Most routes up to 1st-2nd bolt  are set off the ladder, by routesetters who get in the mind set of setting boulder problems. One gym in the area has very large percentage of routes where clipping the 1st and 2nd bolts could be considered the crux. This is a sign of "not excellent" route setting, but there is nothing that clients can do about it, especially when feedback gets ignored. Considering that route area mats are not the same quality as bouldering mats - bouldering mat systems are quite a bit more expensive than mats under routes, falling at the 1st bolt introduces stupid risk. 

amarius wrote:

If I had an option to stick clip 1st bolt in a gym, I would sometimes chose to exercise that option.
Most routes up to 1st-2nd bolt  are set off the ladder, by routesetters who get in the mind set of setting boulder problems. One gym in the area has very large percentage of routes where clipping the 1st and 2nd bolts could be considered the crux. This is a sign of "not excellent" route setting, but there is nothing that clients can do about it, especially when feedback gets ignored. Considering that route area mats are not the same quality as bouldering mats - bouldering mat systems are quite a bit more expensive than mats under routes, falling at the 1st bolt introduces stupid risk. 

That's a fair point, however in my experience it nearly always possible to just climb up to the 1st bolt using whatever holds & clip it. That's what I do if I feel the need to pre-clip in the gym. I'd rather than that bring a stickclip to the gym just in case...

To both Auden and Franck -

Yes, using easier holds to preclip 1st bolt is an option, but not always - depends on what is set nearby. Recently, I preclipped 2nd bolt on severely overhung "5.10" in a local gym - it was the easiest route on that wall - climbers breaking into the grade just did not feel comfortable going to the 1st bolt. Route was between "5.11" and "5.12". 

Overheard it at the crag is way more fun than this new stick debate. Actually if I heard this at a crag it would be hysterical. 

ATTENTION NERDS DISCUSSING STICK CLIPPING IN A GYM

GET ANOTHER THREAD

I actually heard this once at a canyon where I climb. My friend who is 60 and still climbs great but cant see for shit, saw someone coming down the trail w a stick clip and said, " there ain't no fish in here."