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Shoe advice

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PAIGE SCHMIDT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0

Hi all- I have been climbing for about a year (with a COVID couple month break) and have developed a bump on my right big toe that looks just like this. It isn't red, and doesn't hurt when I'm not climbing. However, it hurts a lot when I'm climbing, and is the thing that always forces me to end my sessions. I've seen so many posts about people with similar bumps, and the general response seems to be 'if it doesn't hurt don't worry about it.' Well, I'd be down for this if it weren't such a painful problem while I climb that only seems to get worse with time. I've tried the silicon sleeves recommended in the link above, with some relief but not much. So, after reviewing tons of threads, I'm going to try a half size up shoe. I currently have neutral-moderate Butoras. Unfortunately, I wear size 10.5-11 (normal shoe) women's, which I have never seen stocked in climbing shoes, and everywhere I've shopped requires that I agree to buy them in advance if they order them for me, so I really can't try shoes on at my leisure. I'm wondering if anyone here has advice for women's climbing shoes with a wider toe box. I figure if I'm buying new shoes, I might as well also change the shape since the Butoras are clearly rubbing that joint. I can certainly order and return if they don't fit (although I think getting on the wall is what really reveals the fit), but would like any advice from folks with more shoe experience to point me in the right direction. My climbing skills are getting to the point where I'd love to be looking into more aggressive shoes, but my top priority is to stay on the wall, and would gladly stick with a neutral-moderate if that keeps me climbing. Thanks!

Patrik · · Third rock from Sun · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 30

No real need to stick with shoes that are labeled as women's. I have found that the fit of various brands differ more than men vs. women style shoes. Try on some men's shoes and see what happens. For what it's worth, I have high/wide feet and my go-to brand is Scarpa.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

See a podiatrist - and quit wearing shoes that don't fit correctly for "your" foot.  Climbers can do some pretty stupid things to their feet - with long lasting consequences.  Try on 20 or more types of shoes if you have to - there will one out there that works for you - pain free (or nearly so) and still climbs well.

PAIGE SCHMIDT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0

Thanks- I think I will try on some men's shoes. I wear men's for normal streetwear a lot. I was discouraged from wearing mens climbing shoes at some point, but in reflection that person wasn't an expert, and women's shoes in general tend not to fit my feet well. I'll bring up the bump at my next doc appointment and see about getting in with a podiatrist if the problem persists after switching up shoes. Much appreciated. 

Tinga Ling · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

You should try the men's tarantulas by la sportiva. You can find them on sale sometimes for close to $50 (sierra.com). They're advertised as beginner shoes, but I've happily climbed in them for the past 6 years. I have deceptively wide feet and the wide toe box make these tarantulas the most comfortable shoes ever! You can smear, toe hook, heel hook, climb granite, limestone, sandstone, boulder, sport climb, and trad all day long! Even do the approach in them if you want! Don't listen to the climbing advice of needing your toes to curl uncomfortably in an expensive foot binding torture device. Feet comfort is actually the key to climbing progression. You can trust your feet more on thinner holds and rest on the routes longer to figure out your betas. Happy feet means you can climb longer routes and do more pitches and in general climbing more = climbing better:)

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

One of the things that showed me years ago I was fitting my shoes too tight was watched guides climb routes in Approach shoes and stand on holds I thought I needed a foot binding fit shoe.  At the level I climb I don't need that.  And more than likely neither do most people.  You want tight "all over' but no "hot or especially painful spots".

Mark B · · Memphis · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 2
Chris Ricewrote:

One of the things that showed me years ago I was fitting my shoes too tight was watched guides climb routes in Approach shoes and stand on holds I thought I needed a foot binding fit shoe.  At the level I climb I don't need that.  And more than likely neither do most people.  You want tight "all over' but no "hot or especially painful spots".

Totally agree. I went to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch earlier this year for some training and our guide Roy just led a route in his approach shoes. I was like “you can do that?”

Math Bert · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 90
Chris Ricewrote:

One of the things that showed me years ago I was fitting my shoes too tight was watched guides climb routes in Approach shoes and stand on holds I thought I needed a foot binding fit shoe.  At the level I climb I don't need that.  And more than likely neither do most people.  You want tight "all over' but no "hot or especially painful spots".

second this - sometimes I ever wear thin socks in my TC Pros if it's going to be a long day - and it feels great!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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