Tips for Moon Board modifications...

I want to construct a Moon Board in my basement but the ceiling is only 8 ft 6 in. I need at least 10 ft 3 in for a standard set up. I read the article on Evening Sends about how he fitted his for a 9 ft ceiling and it seemed legit. I was wondering if anyone had any experience modifying the standard set up or any tips for doing so. The best idea I've seen so far is shave a little bit off of the kicker and shrink the grid by half an inch to an inch. The other option would be to save up more skrilla and just build a Tension Board, but I really kind of had my heart set on a Moon Board. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Don't try. Your space is way too short.  Moon board is standardized and if you change it the problems will be different. A spray wall would probably be better. 

bruno-cx wrote:

"spay wall". 

Yup. A woody on which holds are "sprayed" on, therefore maximizing space. OP, shortening the kicker sounds like a good idea until you realize how heinously scrunchy the starts will be.

You guys should read this and tell me what you think. I'm just dreading the fatigue of home setting and something like a moonboard seems like it would kill that stagnation.

https://eveningsends.com/battle-of-the-boards-moon-hang-and-campus-a-home-gym-review/

Daniel Winder wrote: Don't try. Your space is way too short.  Moon board is standardized and if you change it the problems will be different. A spray wall would probably be better. 

I made a modified moonboard in my shed - took off 4" on the kicker and took a total of 4" off the panels. Start is very compressed and some of the lower start holds are basically unusable compared to a regulation moonboard. It's one thing to eliminate a few inches - your space would be miserable. 

I had a 9'6" foot ceiling to work with. I had to make the kick board 8 inches and the wall 45 degrees instead of 40 to get the right spacing. I only have the yellows in the 2016 set up and the lowest hold is almost unusable as a hand. Some starts are pretty scrunched and hard for me so I either start a move in or use another hold. I've never used a regular moonboard so I can't comment on how much harder 5 degrees makes anything. Overall it was worth it though. 

bruno-cx wrote:

Say "Moist" out load.  Spray wall sounds the same to me.  It's just plain stupid sounding.  

Spray wall does sound dirty. Like a place you don't want to go.

I helped a friend build one in a shorter space (I don't know what the heigh of the ceiling was) where we took a bit off the kicker and I think a row or two from the top. So you lose a move at the top, and the start on some problems is hard. It also felt kinda tight in the whole area since you're topping out right at the ceiling, but the point is to get strong, not have fun. When I would use it I never thought much of it, but then again I've never been on a full size moon board.

A friend has a Moonboard in a shorter ceiling spaced garage; maybe around 9 feet high. It lacks the very top row of holds (which you don't miss very often), and is a little steeper than a standard Moonboard, but it still works super well.  Only gets you stronger!

Nathan Witt wrote: The other option would be to save up more skrilla and just build a Tension Board, but I really kind of had my heart set on a Moon Board.

Why do you have your heart set on the MB? Just because they were out first doesn't mean it's the best tool, actually in the current 2017 set with the red/wood holds added I think the layout of the board blows. There are still some very good problems, but lots more to scroll with "dyno to red jug" or moves so close that tension isn't really required. The 2016 set was worlds better for training power  and tension in a hard climbing context for rock IMO. If you're dead set on MB just buy the white, black and yellow holds and throw that set up.
I would never consider cutting off the kickers, you'll be fighting a dab for damn near half the starts. I wouldn't cut off the top row because another half the time the crux of the problem IS the last move.

That being said, MB is at my home gym and another local picked up a tension board. After using the tension board is a far better tool if your goal is to train. The wood forces more tension and precision (MB has so much texture it destroys skin and you can fall back on friction all the time). The mirrored hold idea is excellent, you'll be amazed how much different the same movement in a different direction can feel, it really exposes weaknesses.

If I couldn't afford a tension board and didn't have the space for the full mb I would opt for the spray wall or another symmetrical systems wall approach. 

Tension Board would be so cool, but that's a down payment on a new car lol. Looking more and more like a 45 degree spray wall.

Nathan Witt wrote: Tension Board would be so cool, but that's a down payment on a new car lol. Looking more and more like a 45 degree spray wall.

I drive a 2000 outback with 230k on it, it's more than my car is worth ;)

I'd definitely opt for the spray wall. One thing to break up the monotony is get some friends over who have a much different climbing style and have them make up problems. 

This is the moonboard your looking for!

Here's my portable moonboard. My garge is 7.5feet tall which fits the kick board and the first two panels. I designed my moon board so I'm able to roll it outside and attach the final panel. 

By all means this is not a perfect wall but it's a great example of pulling something off when people tell you it cant be done. 

https://youtu.be/3CEbbZQhb0w