New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #13
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Lori Milaswrote: Lori.... thanks for putting up that video. When I saw the Beatles on TV- Ed Sullivan show- my young life was changed forever- for the better (I think) I was a young 9 and had just started out in scouting and my Troop 110 went on 2 backpacking trips each month even in the dead of winter. We would go Humber Park to start many trips. I became aware of rock climbing at this time. I was fascinated by the Climbers with their gear all laid out - pins, shinny biners, ropes everything. Moving to Europe when I was 12 I was able to see a whole new world. Paris offered unlimited “opportunities” to a young lad. When I found out about a band supply store deep in the bowels of the city I just had to get their so I could get a “Beatles” band hat. My friend warned me to have a few specific lines memorized in French so I would be able to get the exact hat I wanted. Getting that hat was a new and scary adventure for me. I continued to go Bicycle camping with friends and found myself in the Forest at Fountanbleu one weekend. More climbers to watch. I learned to Ski and my Family would go to Chamanox. Riding up the (WOW is MP broken?) Is Nick limiting post size? I had a lot more that I wrote but it’s gone. To summarize- Lori I think today is an adventure- a new adventure, and tomorrow will be even better then today! Getting down about things serves no purpose always look forward! Cosmic- good on you for schooling some newbs? That’s the way this sport is supposed to work- passing “it” on. |
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Guy Keeseewrote: Thanks Lori and Guy. This is Trevor on his first climb ever. Photo taken by his Aunt, Sasha. I think he is going to be a natural. |
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Old lady Hwrote: I can't believe go time for this is next week! Gotta get the lawn mowed.... ;-) As stated above, weather can be anything at all, but count on cool to chilly nights for sure (depending on what temps you're used to), that's the elevation (6500'). Keep elevation in mind too, in general, again depending on what you're used to. I get dehydrated at COR, anytime, any temp, and notice those extra 4000 feet when I'm hiking, too. The weather shifted this week and mercifully blew the smoke elsewhere. I don't expect it to be back, but, it's still a possibility. I checked the camping on reserveamerica. City is completely booked for those two weekends, but not the weekdays. This year, lots of people heading out to camp, and less climbers in the park, as a general pattern. Looking forward to seeing folks soon! Call, if you have specific questions, or just want to chat. I got my phone out to most of you who are coming, I think? Last minute additions are welcome, if you've been fence sitting! Best, Helen |
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Guy Keeseewrote: Guy, thanks for starting to flesh out your story for us. For selfish reasons, I love your stories because I wonder where we have all been. It's been a long, sometimes lonely, sojourn through the desert for me... being a stranger in a strange land for the most part since my own teenage years. That same Ed Sullivan show changed my life in the same way. I was 11, too young to understand, but I did understand that something pivotal had happened in the world with this group. I was glued to AM radio for a few years, until FM took over. Soon enough there was a small circle of us who felt we knew something, saw something... even as most peers and adults didn't. It really did start with the Beatles. France, Paris, Europe... Chamonix... I can only try to imagine what all that meant to you. You were in one hub getting quite an education. We were in another, but related. Watching films on Camp 4 in Yosemite, I wonder if I had been there, would my life have gone in that direction? As it was, I was much closer to the Sunset Strip, to every kind of music, to all the political changes... San Francisco right up the road, we really were in a spiritual and cultural revolution. At the same time, others were finding their direction in rock climbing. I don't know how or why we scattered, but it was shattering to me. I woke up one morning to the BeeGees and disco and tried to make the best of it. Long nights up around a campfire at the Colorado River were over. Surfing at Rincon. Hitch hiking wherever we could think to go... it all just ended. My best friend decided it was time to 'grow up' and that meant, for her, divesting herself of everything that we ever cared about. She has never been able to look back--but she has also remained on a max dose of antidepressants she was 20. Partly climbing has been my attempt to reconnect with what and who was important to me, finally, now that family, kids and business don't have such a hold on my time and energy. I don't mind if I arrive a little older... I just need to feel home again. Obviously, that statement has many layers. I am so grateful for those here who have shared and continue to bring forth stories. I realize that some of the younger 'over 50' climbers may not relate to these 60's recollections at all. ---------- Tony seems to be doing much better. It will be 2 weeks tomorrow since his surgery. I think when it's all said and done, he will be happy he did it. Having seen it from my end, I'm no longer sure it was smart of either of us. It could have gone very wrong. How are YOU? I don't know what's up with the MP site. It's hit or miss whatever posts. Pictures disappear. If you're typing on a cell phone whole blocks delete for no good reason. It just happens. |
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HUGE KUDOS to Helen for putting this all together! I can't WAIT for Sept 10 to get here! |
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Where is everyone? Did the over 50 crowd finally run out of stuff to talk about? |
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We're saving it up for COR. |
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Had a great morning at Vedauwoo. Did 4 short climbs. Getting used to 8000 ft elevation.
May do this chimney tomorrow. John |
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8000 feet! That would take some adjusting. Looks so fun!! Yardwork, housework, futzy errands (like DMV) this week, ahead of the trip. Dunno if I mentioned, but i have a superclip peeps can borrow, if they want. Not really needed in general at City, but there are places some may want one, or, if you simply want to clip the first one for a hard start. I have about a rack and a half, also happy to loan pieces out, if you want multiples for something. And, with sunrise past 7 and sunset around 8? Plenty of evening for that real campfire, as folks want. It will be cool to cold at night, also. There are several places to buy firewood in Almo, but I'll have the first bundle or two up at the site the first night. One of the individual sites will likely do double duty to gather at, on the weekends when the group camp is taken. We can work that out between us, I'm sure. Alas, the peaches are close to falling off the tree, so I don't think they'll make it to City. This tree is grear peaches, but they are all at once, pretty much. I do have table grapes, maybe tomatoes, summer squash, going in the garden, and, it being Idaho? I'll dig some potatoes this weekend to share. Oh! Vital gear arrived in the mail today. A new swimsuit! A bit big, but it will do. My others are getting definitely too big, yay! I'm really looking forward to the pools, both the hot soak and cooler swimming. Pools here are closed. I was going to add lap swimming into the mix this summer, as one of the public pools is only a few blocks away, but, plague. Oh well. This has been so strange. Being able to "escape" over to this place I love, has really helped. I think this is trip four? Five? I can't tell you how much I'm looking forward to this, all of you, but I'm especially excited for those of you who are new to COR! Best, Helen |
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Old lady Hwrote: I am bringing extra gear also that the group can use. Even extra webbing and cordage to set up TRs. |
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I’m so happy for all of you who are getting together. Hope you have T-shirts made! Helen, wish I could see your garden and try some of those peaches. But I’ll be happy to get back to Joshua Tree and stay put for awhile. I’m so looking forward to the start of the climbing season and to not having to worry having to leave for home again. Living there, I won’t have to plan so hard to cram every minute full... days of climbing can spread out. I spent the day in Donner with Chris today. What a gentleman he is and good friend he has become! I so look forward to seeing him and catching up on our lives. But Sierra climbing is so different for me. I barely have the hang of Josh granite and how much it sticks... Sierra granite is slick, there’s moss. I Have to recalculate how much to trust my feet. I’m trying to learn to keep moving on a route now... not stall at difficult places. But I hit a slick spot on a steep slab today that I couldn’t think my way through. There was nothing in front of me for my feet or hands. There was a small ledge far to my left and high up for a foot hold requiring a high step . A side pull to my right. I had the thought from John Longs book that sometimes you have to give up a really good hold if it’s too far off course to reach. I wasn’t sure which way to go with such precarious balance and my feet were in pain from edging. Chris finally shouted up: “ come on Lori. Take a risk.” I did and got through it. ——- Tony is recovering. But last night in some kind of drug euphoria he made the remark “The highest compliment you can give any woman is that she has great fashion sense.” REALLY??? What part of my filthy climbing outfit could he be referring to? And today fits of giggles when I thought “The highest compliment you could pay ME is that I pee really well outside.” It’s true. I’m really good at it. I’m fast and never get caught. I think he has the wrong girl. John, if you climb that chimney tomorrow set up a shoe cam and post pictures! |
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Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwainwrote: I'm trying to accept that my usual November trip to Mexico won't happen. Looks like Bernal and Mineral del Chico will have to wait another year. Also realizing that completely unanticipated shit happens that can really screw with life and dreams. What to do? I'm putting together a list of places I'm going to once COVID travel restrictions end. Then the tough part, finding a willing travel partner. |
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Adapt, improvise, overcome. When the old dreams fade, make some new ones. Which from the sounds of it is exactly what you're doing. :) |
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Cherokee Nuneswrote: It does seem that we are all learning big lessons this year, although not the ones we anticipated. I feel really hopeful that easier lessons will come along soon. After a remarkable and really challenging day of climbing yesterday, I arrived home in not good shape. I thought of all you about to meet at COR. Keep in mind some moderation! I just pushed too far, wanted one last route, and then one more.... I was not paying attention to the sun, my own thirst, and exhaustion. I kept glancing up the canyon and wondering how exactly we would be getting back to our cars. It never occurred to me that it might be quite a hike and scramble UP in an exhausted state. There were points along the way that I thought I might not make it, I had to stop for good long spells just to find more strength. When I got home, it took everything in me to get up the stairs, lay down in bed... and be in misery all night. So... hopefully I'll remember this, take some notes, and try to come up with a better plan. Overdoing the exercise aside, I'm still thinking about electrolytes. My daughter told me she's tried just about everything, and this is what she loves: Saltstick Chews. They come in a bottle, or packets like these. You can have a few, or pop some every 15 minutes. I'm going to give these a try. (Learning) |
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Jean led this chimney climb early this morning. 52 degrees was perfect temperature. The chimney was too dark to take good pictures. Free rap Edit. We had a mini epic on rap. The wind took the rope and tossed it into a crack on the right as if we were to rap off. The rope got caught in the flake. I then had to try to figure out how to get it out and put gear in the flakes because of the overhanging rap.I was totally exhausted trying to get the rope out hold on to the flake and left leg dangling. John |
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Lori Milaswrote: LOL, just remember Lori you started this train of thought. It took many years for my young city raised wife to acclimate to the great outdoors. She was aghast at her first encounter with a National Forest vault toilet. It doesn't flush. Then came peeing in the woods, what bushes to avoid. Strong wind, which way do you point. Hills, where are your feet. Skeeters and horse flies on areas that don't normally get bug spray. I give her a lot of credit for persevering through all of these lessons. She didn't get to excited about the back packer cat hole shovel I got her for Christmas one year, but she used it. 30 years later we encounter blue bags at climbing areas. I'm still adjusting to that. It has been quite an education volunteering for organizations that manage our outdoor area. One of the jobs that volunteers are good for is litter picking. I have done a lot of litter picking. So who cleans up the campsites at COR? Mostly it's the campers themselves. People that spend a great deal of time in the outdoors have really good ethics and practices, folks that were never taught good pack it in pack out skills not so much. As a litter picker at a day use area or popular hiking trail you soon learn favorite pee places, you will find lots of tissue, yep, someone comes along and picks that up. There are still a few places you can go and hide the tissue under a rock and it will disintegrate before it's found, but not most climbing areas. Not popular hiking trails. And then the National Forest folks close all the vault toilets for COVID even though all the trail heads are packed. It definitely created a problem. We have added a new task to our pack it in pack it out routine, we carry a ziplock sandwich bag dedicated to tissues. It's just one small way of reducing the negative human impact on the outdoor areas we love so much. |
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Dallas Rwrote: Along with the plastic bag - also gloves.... I stock wag bags in the front range at several climbing areas (thank you BCC!) and am amazed at what people leave in the wag bag stations. Generally lots of bags of dog poop. But also USED wag bags. Yay. It always astounds me what people are willing to leave for someone else to take care of. I guess I should be glad they aren't throwing it on the ground (although there's a fair bit of that too). But really.... do people not recognize that someone (me and other volunteers) has to deal with their crap? Thanks Dallas - I do try to pick up any trash I see while out and about. I will admit that, with COVID, if I don't have gloves with me I am more reluctant to pick it up. |
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Revel in it! You left it all on the hill. You have something in your life, a physical thing, that so engrosses you that you literally gave it everything you had. Is that such a bad thing? (it most definitely is not) I can guarantee you this - any of us that have been doing this a while, 40-years in my case, know all too well that spent sense of exhaustion you described. So many times we have all bit off more than we could rightfully expect to chew, and somehow got through it nonetheless, only to find ourselves hobbling that last hill back to the car, falling asleep in the passenger seat with our head lolling back and forth as our madman partner gets us home, and then barely able to stand up on wiped out muscles as we try to extricate ourselves from the car. And if you're like me, when you go to bed in that state you can pretty much know the lactic acid fallout will mean cramped and sore muscles for the next 2-3 days. Revel in that soreness. Appreciate yourself for having dug deep. You'll be back at it again soon enough, and soon enough you'll again bite off more than you can chew. Its all good and proper. The sense of exhaustion and pain are as part and parcel to climbing as are joy and excitement. They go together in the physical world. Embrace them. And admit it - you like it. And you like the fact you can take it, right? Oh, and drink more water. Your legs will love you for it, especially on that last hill. Lots more water. |
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CN ...... well put. I love the feeling you get at about the 28 hour mark! Walking down the last 3 miles to the car- having free hallucinations- talking with your Mom, agreeing with her that “ya-Mom This shit is stupid!”....... I won’t do the death drive home anymore though- that’s crazy!!! Lori- another lesson learned for you. #103: note, when walking down hill to climb your going to most likely, going to walk up-hill when you’re finished for the day- have something in the gas tank. I had a meeting with my Surgeon yesterday- he and I are extremely happy with the results!! I have no-pain! For the first time in 4+ years- nothing!!! Stoked to say the least. But I need 4 more weeks basically “flat on my back” no Bending, Lifting or Twisting (BLT) OK to walk around but no car rides, sitting. He said “ there are ligaments, tendons, flesh and bone that got cut and scraped on, we filleted right down to the base of your nerves- they look great- and drilled out blood passages.... give it time to harden up, then we will get you stretched out, after that you can get strong again....” so happy with that!!!!! My other Doctor and his “you can get around fine with a walker” can go to heck!!! F That So I won’t make COR in 2020 but I have a future |
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Lori, There are many electrolyte powders you can add to water. I like a brand called Hydrant. I usually dilute it with more water than recommended. Heavily hydrating before, during and after a long climbing day will pay off in less suffering. One other tip - ibuprofen before going to bed will helps me sleep and feel a little better in the morning. |


























