Climbing, month by month?

Haley D wrote:

Hey Helen -

Southern Utah has been doable for a while now. Just need to find shady walls in early fall and sunny walls in late fall/early winter. Moab/Indian Creek is starting to get chilly at night, but still really nice during the day. If you're looking further south, pretty sure St. George is nice all winter? 

SLC is great right now too. The cool temps combined with sunny days on those south-facing walls can be downright magical. Hopefully, we get some ice soon too *fingers crossed*

When I said gets doable, I was thinking post December, winter into spring. That's when I'll start getting itchy to go somewhere, although it sucks for traveling. Weather can be iffy, too.

Thanks! Helen

Dylan B. wrote: Jan: North Carolina
Feb: North Carolina
Mar: North Carolina
Apr: North Carolina
May: North Carolina
June: Somewhere else
July: Somewhere else
Aug: Somewhere else
Sep: North Carolina
Oct: North Carolina
Nov: North Carolina
Dec: North Carolina 

Yes! It would be the bee's knees if you could list the perfect NC crag for each month. I'm asking for friend 

That would be soo cool.

Old lady H wrote:

When I said gets doable, I was thinking post December, winter into spring. That's when I'll start getting itchy to go somewhere, although it sucks for traveling. Weather can be iffy, too.

Thanks! Helen

Could climb in the desert all winter if motivated, but I'd say safe bet starts February to March depending on cold tolerance. However, you might be surprised by how much rain the Moab area gets, which can curtail climbing since its sandstone. 

Wow, what a lot has changed! 

Nonetheless, bumping MY thread back, lol, because I still like thinking about what might be doable this winter and next year. I don't see going to the east coast, so western U.S., pretty much. Still no passport, and if I don't get on the stick with that, no domestic flights, either. Oops.

H.

My rule of thumb is that everything in the southwest is good in October. But so is mostly everything else. Also, the third week in August is less likely to get rain in the high Sierra.

Old lady Hwrote:

Wow, what a lot has changed! 

Nonetheless, bumping MY thread back, lol, because I still like thinking about what might be doable this winter and next year. I don't see going to the east coast, so western U.S., pretty much. Still no passport, and if I don't get on the stick with that, no domestic flights, either. Oops.

H.

FYI, the Real ID stuff for TSA got pushed back to October 2021 for domestic flights. If that's what you are referring to, then you should be able to fly domestically this winter.

OLH.... drive down to Bishop this fall before the snow flies. I think you could have a good time climbing around those parts. It will only take you 8 hours or so.
Area 13, ORG and Pine Creek are what you’re looking for. 

Perhaps not germane to the OP, but as far as US winter destinations go, Jan/Feb is prime time for bouldering in the SE. I've done winter trips to LRC/Rocktown or HP40 for several years now, and have had amazing conditions every time. In fact, HP40 was almost too hot for us last February. I was a sport-only climber for years, and can strongly attest that it's worth getting into bouldering if only to experience the next-level friction of Southern sandstone in perfect winter conditions... it's -that- good!

How reliable is the weather in the SE in the winter?

What's the likelihood that you'll get rained out vs having great cool conditions?

That's the trouble with Red Rocks in the winter- when it's good, it's great, but if you hit a rainy spell, you'll be spending a lot of time at the Gun Club.

Seems like kind of the same with Bishop. Easy to hit a bad spell of weather, then you are out of luck.

Even JTree is often unpleasantly cold in the winter. Plus it's JTree :-)

OTOH, we've had good luck with far southern AZ- Cochise area and Mt Lemmon. 

Even Hueco Tanks, if you have a van or some place to hang out after dark. The Rock Ranch or a hotel/lodge.

Old lady Hwrote:

Nonetheless, bumping MY thread back, lol, because I still like thinking about what might be doable this winter and next year. I don't see going to the east coast, so western U.S., pretty much. Still no passport, and if I don't get on the stick with that, no domestic flights, either. Oops.

Helen,

I would recommend you WAIT until you can breathe down here.   Right now the smoke is so thick I can look directly at the sun.  Don't even want to go outside much less exercise outside.  Much of the smoke is coming from the California fires.   One Million acres are on fire right now, with no end in sight, so you might think about October.  I took this photo from my house a week ago, BEFORE the smoke was bad.  This is the Cameron Peak fire.

Here's a good site to use to decide when you should come south.

https://hwp-viz.gsd.esrl.noaa.gov/smoke/index.html#

You'll get a loop that shows the smoke.  This is a snapshot of today's "near surface smoke":  Looks like it's bad in Boise too, eh?    

One final thing: get your passport.

EDIT: I was in Rifle for 5 days last week.  Several times the ash was falling like snow.  The air burned my eyes, nose and throat.  

Mark E Dixonwrote:

How reliable is the weather in the SE in the winter?

It rains, but its rare to have week-long, trip-ruining deluges. We usually "plan" on a rain day every four days or so, but if you're flexible with your rest days, it usually works out well. Of course, we may have just gotten lucky, but in 5 years of week-long trips, it's never rained more days than we'd want to take off anyway. 

John Byrneswrote:

Helen,

I would recommend you WAIT until you can breathe down here.   Right now the smoke is so thick I can look directly at the sun.  Don't even want to go outside much less exercise outside.  Much of the smoke is coming from the California fires.   One Million acres are on fire right now, with no end in sight, so you might think about October.  I took this photo from my house a week ago, BEFORE the smoke was bad.  This is the Cameron Peak fire.

Here's a good site to use to decide when you should come south.

https://hwp-viz.gsd.esrl.noaa.gov/smoke/index.html#

You'll get a loop that shows the smoke.  This is a snapshot of today's "near surface smoke":  Looks like it's bad in Boise too, eh?    

One final thing: get your passport.

EDIT: I was in Rifle for 5 days last week.  Several times the ash was falling like snow.  The air burned my eyes, nose and throat.  

Yeah, you've discovered one of the main weather patterns here, a diagonal directly from northern CA to Boise. We have their smoke whenever they have a bad year, including the Yosemite stuff. And yes, it's pretty smoky here.

As to weather and trips in general, except for meeting up with other people, I have no restrictions on my time at all, anymore. So, if it's a driving trip, I can just go (or not) whenever I want. Make last minute decisions. My fastest get ready and go trip, it took me less than an hour to pack and get the cats/house ready. The two guys I was ferrying for a big mountaineering objective took just as long to sort and organize their gear, in my driveway where we met up.

Meeting other people though, with jobs and such, there's the rub...and the main reason I leave home in the first place.

Passport, painting/remodeling projects...there's quite a long list for whenever the weather isn't so great (mainly once Boise is surrounded by snow everywhere). 

H.

@Mark Paulsen, sorry, clearly you love your place, but I don't see any trips out that way. Too much travel time, no matter what. And, I'm not quite prepared for many weeks or months long trips. Yet.

Mark E Dixonwrote: Thanks Jon!
We are not actually "on the road", just taking 2-3 week trips away from home for now.
However, next year may be a different story.

I'm particularly curious about good areas from January to April.
Hueco was nice in Jan, but Box Canyon was COLD! Even the Tunnel was frosty.
Driving a mini-van so the Homestead and other southern NM areas out.
Eventually settled into Tucson area for a bit, especially liked Milagarosa Canyon.
Wasn't super charmed by the lower crags on Mt Lemmon highway, I think the higher crags are better?
Red Rocks was really cold in December and January- not super high on my list any more. Camping is a hassle and conditions iffy.
I'll definitely avoid Christmas and spring break in the future sweet japanese!

We spent a lot of time at New Jack, in large part because it was convenient for visiting family in SoCal.
Even so, we both liked it. I'd call it a good local crag, certainly not a destination.

Fairly casual, free camping, a pretty area.
Bit of an LA circus on weekends, but you can get away from the main crags.
Mix of sun and shade.
Mix of hard and easy routes, at least up to hard 12s.

Rock is volcanic I believe, good friction, so footwork is useful.
Hard to read holds, "is that a jug I'm going for or a terrible sloper?" so makes on sighting fun.
Varied movement for the same reason.
Often vert or a little more, usually short cruxes and often short routes.

I'm  also particularly curious about good areas from January to April. i am also agree with you...

@Helen-

I think your biggest obstacle may be lining up partners.

I don't think it's that easy to just roll into most areas and find someone to climb with.

Seems like your best bet, despite the risk of rain and cold weather, is Red Rocks or JTree.

Many posters on the over 50 thread seem to live down there and you could probably make arrangements in advance.

Plus both areas have good routes in the moderate grade ranges, some even very good.

And there's other stuff to do if you have some unpartnered days.

Beware of school vacation time if you hate crowds.

And camping at Red Rocks can be an issue- but for now there's plenty of availability in the campground, just reserve early.

The price is right if you have a senior pass.

Mark E Dixonwrote:

@Helen-

I think your biggest obstacle may be lining up partners.

I don't think it's that easy to just roll into most areas and find someone to climb with.

Seems like your best bet, despite the risk of rain and cold weather, is Red Rocks or JTree.

Many posters on the over 50 thread seem to live down there and you could probably make arrangements in advance.

Plus both areas have good routes in the moderate grade ranges, some even very good.

And there's other stuff to do if you have some unpartnered days.

Beware of school vacation time if you hate crowds.

And camping at Red Rocks can be an issue- but for now there's plenty of availability in the campground, just reserve early.

The price is right if you have a senior pass.

Thanks, Mark! I'm aware of the partner thing, having done this before. That's what I'd do in the future, build trips based on meeting people. That's my main interest, anyway! Although I doubt I'll get to Sprezzatura...

The other thing to keep in mind, for me at least, for planning on longer road trips, is where you can (and can't) sleep in a car. It surprised me to be told by the people I met in urban areas, that it might freak the neighbors out if I was seen, lol! So, i "had" to sleep in guest rooms twice last year. Such kind people. Even had "loaner" kitties that cuddled, pups to play with, coffee...

Tough life. 

The easy answer, Walmart, is not as available now. Some of them have cut the overnight stuff. 

OTOH, since stay at home started, there looks to be more than a few folks living in driveways and such in trailers. I'm guessing with family for the duration. 

City of Rocks for 10 days, coming up soon! After that, dunno. Maybe stay put, work on house projects. My gym is open too. 

Best, Helen

Bishop/Vegas/JTree for winter 

Chatty/RRG/NRG for fall

Wyoming/Colorado/Utah for summer 

Yosemite for Spring

 Month the month is too hard

Chatty?

Brad Larsonwrote:

Chatty?

Chattanooga....

The smoke was pretty gnar in Tuolumne two weeks ago. But when we drove through Rifle to stretch our arms on the drive home, air was clear. 70 had only been open a few days at that point. 

Edit - My seasonal approach is very simple: Jan-March southern sandstone. July-Aug High Sierra granite. Sept-Nov southern sandstone. Nov-Dec is a wild card, but basically just a mixture of the previous with maybe a really cold day at Red Rock 

Stephen Lwrote:

Edit - My seasonal approach is very simple: Jan-March southern sandstone. July-Aug High Sierra granite. Sept-Nov southern sandstone. Nov-Dec is a wild card, but basically just a mixture of the previous with maybe a really cold day at Red Rock 

November/December is a great time to head to Mexico.  Peña de Bernal.  Mineral del Chico.

Peña de Bernal 

Mineral del Chico, Las Ventanas, original (1930's) route.