New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #12

Oldtradguywrote:

 It is today July 14.

John

Yo John Happy Birthday!  Tell Miss Jean I said hello.  Hope to see you  when you are out this way.  Headed to Driggs soon to visit Miah and family and climb a little in The Tetons.   Bud

Oldtradguywrote:

Carl

Thanks. It is today July 14.

John

Happy birthday John! No more May/December marriage for the next few months? 

Guy Keeseewrote: The scamdemic has one purpose- to get Trump out of office. I have never seen so much lying by “officials” “politicians” “media” in my life.

At first a over abundance of caution was justified. When the President stopped travel from China - he was BBQ and touted as racist etc.... but he knew the Communist Chinese were locking down Whuhan (sp) residents from travel EXCEPT they could go International if they wished.  Smells fishy??? 

So you all can fry me if you like, at this point what the hell? I have never seen my country in such bad shape. We usta be strong and fearless- that courage is gone. So go ahead and hide under the blankets, it’s only OK to show your face if you’re goin to “protest” and rip down history. 

A truly sad time for us. 

Well, I dunno...I remember a fair bit of not great behavior decades ago. Although I think Ford was kinda fun as a befuddled what the heck just happened president.

What has changed, is the incredibly fast dissemination of information of any sort, by anyone. It's a huge deluge. Even if you are trying to be conscientious, it's just too much to even begin to parse.

"Media" is also very, very, different now. We've been taught to expect answers, NOW. Forget about mere fact checking, let alone a nuanced, researched story with depth. That still happens... but not regularly.

I hear frustration, and fatigue, sir. Pretty damn understandable, no matter how politics cones in, or who is advocating what at any moment. I am truly in that, with you, and everyone here. You are not remotely alone. Personally, if I still had guns and was up to speed, just shooting a piece of junk into smaller pieces of junk could be gratifying, some days, lol!

So, hang in there, muddle along as best you can. You can't do or say anything at this point that would undo friendship, whatever my opinion of your opinion might be. I truly hope we can rope up come September.

Re young people and covid? That's the demographic happening here. 18-29, from partying in downtown Boise. Remember, as Senor pointed out, Idaho isn't CA. Except for party central Blaine county way back, we slipped through pretty easily.

Until now.

Sorry Guy. However much it has changed there, good decisions or bad?

Here in Boise it is ramping up only now. Fast.

Logarithmic graphs. Base ten. It isn't a flat line.

Best, Helen

John, happy birthday!

Cosmic, I will be in one of Idaho's dark sky sites Sunday night! No moon!! If it's clear, there will stars horizon to horizon, oodles of them. One of the things I really enjoy at COR, that dark sky stuffed with stars...and now a comet!

Budman, or anyone, say howdy if you come through and want to meet!

All, check the status of highway 95 if you are aiming to travel that for north south stuff in Idaho. HUGE rockfalls around Riggins. A couple more aftershocks in the Sawtooths probably didn't help. That's it, for roads around there. No detour, so it could be big delays even if they cobble out one lane. They did that with the first big slide...and then the second one came. Fortunately, no one was there. 

Best, Helen

We are so totally off topic!   

But marginally on topic. I’m going through some changes maybe some can relate to. An unanticipated gift from Joshua Tree and I’m SO grateful for it now.

I thought I was moving there to find my tribe, peace and love hippies that I lost so long ago.  Environmentalists. For sure more “progressive” types.

But who has shown up at my front door are the exact opposite—the coolest group of people just eager to help.  Everyone knows everyone so when the garage guy saw the wiring problem his cousin is an electrician.  The electrician grew up with a landscaper... etc. One after another good people have shown up to help out—unpretentious and non-judgmental.  

Unlike half the liberals I know.   

When we got lost out in Landers, it was a Trump-supporting, American flag-waving, tattooed dude with the Jeep who said “You know, I think I should lead you folks out of here.”  And so he drove the 7 miles of dirt roads ahead of us, and then stopped to show us all his radios and gear and asked us to come on back for beers any time.  

I’m embarrassed to be “the lady with the Lexus” who couldn’t find her way back.  And I could see that we (I) must look ridiculous but all we got was warmth and generous support.    

Let’s just say I’m starting to get it.  There has to be room for dialogue and conversation.  I know I have something to offer to this little community (don’t know what it is yet) but so far they’ve given far more than they’ve taken.  When we get back the Home Security dude is going to turn us on to some quads.  The next door neighbor, who has never been to “the Monument” is going to show me where the hot springs are over yonder.  There’s a fierce independence and a “don’t fuck with me” attitude.  Hard work, know-how and good times there—good people.  

Lori Milaswrote: 
But who has shown up at my front door are the exact opposite—the coolest group of people just eager to help.  One after another good people have shown up to help out—unpretentious and non-judgmental.  

Unlike half the liberals I know.  

 There’s a fierce independence and a “don’t fuck with me” attitude.  Hard work, know-how and good times there—good people.  

There are a couple of assumptions here that are bothering me. There’s an ‘us’ ‘them’ ‘liberal’ ‘conservative’ dichotomy in what you’ve posted Lori, and it seems like you’ve ascribed certain characteristics to each group. I’m really glad you are meeting people that are perhaps a little different culturally from you, and finding the community very welcoming. That is great.

What I’m struggling with is the surprise you seem to have that people with Trump stickers can be generous and kind, and that liberals (I guess the ones you know?) are not hard working, good people and are pretentious and judgmental.

There are a lot of stereotypes wrapped up in this. People are a whole lot more complex than that.  

​

Phew, a lot going on.

rgold wrote:
I don't agree, as this will leaves unnecessary slack in a rope that has been clipped overhead.  

RE: not taking slak on double ropes,  Thank you Rgold, my instinct appears correct and my "experienced" partners advice was good for him, but maybe not the best idea.  I know he was trying to make his noob belayers life easier, fall potential for him on a 5.6 was very very low, but still. Do the right thing at the right time.

Idaho Bob wrote:
All of Idaho is not the wild west

Oh yes it is... just kidding. I could not believe that we could not find an RV spot to spend a few days in McCall.  With all the visitors coming please use common sense when going out.

 Senor Arroz wrote:
I'm feeling complain-y myself. Today my daughter's school district had to decide that they can't go back in person, yet. And my son decided to defer his enrollment at his fancy E. Coast college for at least 6 months and probably a year because it's impractical and unsafe to go jump on a plane and live in a college dorm

It's really tough, my older daughter stuck her son on a plane to come visit my younger daughter decided it was too risky.  Everyone must make their own decisions here.  I consider myself a "vulnerable", yet I don't lock myself up.  We have been places where they are really concerned and get upset if you don't have a mask on, yet here in Hayden, ID the only people wearing masks are in the stores.  I respect your sons decision.

Bob Gaines wrote:
Hey Dallas, get yourself a short length of static or low stretch rope (10mm diameter)  and use the Joshua Tree System. It works for almost every toprope setup situation you'll ever encounter.
PS. Those bolts look like Climb Tech Wave stainless steel  glue-ins (35kN) (I know, hard to believe.)

I hate my static rope, it is soooo rigid and hard to tie knots into.  Ok, I need a better piece of rope.  I had a good section of used gym rope, it wasn't as "stretchy" as our main ropes, but I think I donated it to a school.  We are sooo spoiled with organized areas, really, just two quick draws is an anchor. So running into anchor bolts that are set far back was a bit different and required some thought.  I usually carry a 30' piece of 1" web that I could fashion an extended anchor with.  But I need an excuse to go to the climbing store and get more stuff.  Or maybe we will just pass on climbing here.  Good to know about those glue in bolts. I was going to use them, they just looked a little skinny.

We did get to Q'Emlin park in Couer D'Alene, ID  for some climbing.  First day out lost, finally found something we could climb, only to melt in the sun.  One route and done....
So we went back earlier this morning.  I thing we were on Caveman at the Ledges, maybe not, top roped, used redirects as it was an angling route.

Then wandered on back to the "Outback".  Somebody went to the time and expense to put up these cute signs to let you know what area you are in, but as these things goes about half of them have been stolen.

We shared the area with a college sponsored day camp of about 12 kids.  Everybody minded there distances.  Barb tried to lead the "Arete" but got concerned on a poorly protected bulge, we pulled rope and set up a TR on it, she sailed right up in on TR.  I struggled but got there.  Moved left, climbed a 5.7, I bailed when it got thin.



A good day of climbing for us.  It's troubling that we only climbed 4 routes in a day, talk about slow.  The college kids ran about 6 routes to our 1.  The virus has been tough on our way of life, we have been discussing a change and actually went and looked at some boats today.  This next year will bring some changes for us for sure, just don't know what they will be.     

"Ok, I need a better piece of rope"

Dallas:
Sterling Safety Pro 10mm diameter low stretch rope, very supple and easy to tie knots with. It's my go to, and what I recommend to all my students in the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course. Plus it has a modicum (4%) of stretch, which makes it safer for tethering, belaying, etc.

ErikaNWwrote:

There are a couple of assumptions here that are bothering me. There’s an ‘us’ ‘them’ ‘liberal’ ‘conservative’ dichotomy in what you’ve posted Lori, and it seems like you’ve ascribed certain characteristics to each group. I’m really glad you are meeting people that are perhaps a little different culturally from you, and finding the community very welcoming. That is great.

What I’m struggling with is the surprise you seem to have that people with Trump stickers can be generous and kind, and that liberals (I guess the ones you know?) are not hard working, good people and are pretentious and judgmental.

There are a lot of stereotypes wrapped up in this. People are a whole lot more complex than that.  

I'm a little perplexed that the tattoos are relevant.  Are those with tattoos supposed to be bad ass or something? I think we talked about this a little while ago (assumptions/racism, etc) sorry to wade in and bring this up again but it's important we keep self checking   . 

Just the other day a bunch of us at the office went to get some takeaway. One staff member got some Asian food and got chop sticks.  She asked another lady, who is of Asian appearance, how to use the chop sticks. She replied "I don't know, I'm terrible at them". I (half) jokingly said "There ya go, find an Asian looking person and assume they know how to use chop sticks, bit of an assumption isn't it?" 

We need to be careful we don't assume too much based on appearances, it's clearly a problem in some areas, and we may not MEAN to offend, but we might be offending regardless.

PS, I'm booking in to a clinic this arvo to get my tatts lasered off. That way I can be a clean cut member of society. 

Bob Gaineswrote: "Ok, I need a better piece of rope"

Dallas:
Sterling Safety Pro 10mm diameter low stretch rope, very supple and easy to tie knots with. It's my go to, and what I recommend to all my students in the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course. Plus it has a modicum (4%) of stretch, which makes it safer for tethering, belaying, etc.

On the shopping list. 

Plus, where do the carabiners go?  I can find only one of my original BD oval six pack. None of the second pack of all black ovals can be found.  I know the new no foul wire biners are scattered, water bottles, pet leashes, equipment boxes, they are just handy...  But my 4th locking Camp Oval, where is it, can't find it anywhere.  Time to go shopping. 

Use 3 of the same brand, like BD regular (non wire gate) ovals. Better symmetry that way when you oppose and reverse them at the master point.

Bob Gaineswrote: "Ok, I need a better piece of rope"

Dallas:
Sterling Safety Pro 10mm diameter low stretch rope, very supple and easy to tie knots with. It's my go to, and what I recommend to all my students in the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course. Plus it has a modicum (4%) of stretch, which makes it safer for tethering, belaying, etc.

Yup.  I have 40 meters of this exact rope and it is great.  Set all of my TR's with it.

But I have never used the whole thing!  40 meters might be a bit of overkill!

Lori Milaswrote: We are so totally off topic!   

What's a "topic"?  There's a topic on this thread???

Buck Rogerswrote:

Yup.  I have 40 meters of this exact rope and it is great.  Set all of my TR's with it.

But I have never used the whole thing!  40 meters might be a bit of overkill!

Depending on the situation, I usually carry a length from 50 to 100 feet of rigging rope. I often go to the same cliffs where I know what length I'll need for rigging topropes.

Bob Gaineswrote: Use 3 of the same brand, like BD regular (non wire gate) ovals. Better symmetry that way when you oppose and reverse them at the master point.

Another advantage is that three carabiners "stand up" on a slab and allow the rope to run more freely.

rgoldwrote:

Another advantage is that three carabiners "stand up" on a slab and allow the rope to run more freely.

I love my ovals! I always carry bunches when I'm climbing or leading.

I am not a fan of wire gates. Ovals and Ds for me with a few bent gates for QDs.

ErikaNWwrote:

There are a couple of assumptions here that are bothering me. There’s an ‘us’ ‘them’ ‘liberal’ ‘conservative’ dichotomy in what you’ve posted Lori, and it seems like you’ve ascribed certain characteristics to each group. I’m really glad you are meeting people that are perhaps a little different culturally from you, and finding the community very welcoming. That is great.

What I’m struggling with is the surprise you seem to have that people with Trump stickers can be generous and kind, and that liberals (I guess the ones you know?) are not hard working, good people and are pretentious and judgmental.

There are a lot of stereotypes wrapped up in this. People are a whole lot more complex than that.  

I am SO RELIEVED that most here let this go and returned to 'climbing'.  I had my last post on my mind, and wished I hadn't posted it.  It WAS off topic and I should have deleted it.  (Carl, it wasn't that there were tattoos, it's what they said.) 

But at least one short explanation: for the last 40 years I have been closely involved with an Ayurvedic/yoga community both in Nevada City and San Diego, and their associated ashrams.  Over the years I've been to many, many classes, workshops and week-long retreats... so this has been a long standing part of my life.  Since being back in Rocklin the Nevada City folks have been quite vocal, especially politically.  Whether it's about diet, medicine, the environment, COVID or morals, the list of shoulds and expectations is enormous, and the stridency and self-righteousness have really gotten to me. The list of qualifiers for being 'progressive' is lengthy, and the assumptions about being morally right are locked in.  I thought of some of my new friends out there in the desert, (aka Jeep dude   ) and how abhorrent this must seem to them.  It's helping me understand the chasm that has developed, and the militancy on both sides.  I didn't mean to paint this story in such black/white strokes.  

And on a more non-political note, I just appreciate the welcome mat (so far) in Joshua Tree, beginning to understand the dread my new neighbors feel with every new family who moves in clueless about the environment there, the water (I still don't know if it's ok to turn on my hose but I think it's not)... trashing the fragile land.  The dependence upon tourists, but wishing they would go away. Real dread that Los Angeles climbers and visitors will carelessly bring COVID to Joshua Tree, an underserved community medically.  I'm just learning, that's all.    

Anyone have the Lamoille Canyon guide book that they're willing to lend or sell?  It's been unavailable since 2015.  I'm looking for a remote climbing location.

I don't know where I found this quote, but it fits more every day,.

"Climbing keeps me feeling and thinking like a young man...and living with a mindset of possibility rather than limitation. It engages mind & body completely, thus bringing me into the elusive "flow state" in which focus is pinpoint, time seemingly stops, and pleasure is pure. Climbing is an activity I can do with my family...and do in amazing places..and around other passionate, positive, and motivated people. It reminds me of my mortality and gives me occasional insight into the spiritual realm. The bottom line: For me, to climb is to be fully alive."

rgoldwrote:

Another advantage is that three carabiners "stand up" on a slab and allow the rope to run more freely.

Yes, and I've found that if you use steel ovals, even more so, because they're heavier and stay put, unlike big, wide lockers that will flip sideways. In my climbing school we've used  the 3 ovals at the TR masterpoint for over 35 years without incident, which I'd guess is about 70,000 climb/lower cycles.