Climbing during COVID

So I’m moving to the Bay Area in less than a month, specifically Berkeley, and given I have never been to the west coast I was hoping to scope out some of the crags out there. I’m mainly a sport climber and would love to start getting into some multi pitch routes at some point... but obviously this is a pretty tense time to do that.
I read that the Bay Area climbing coalition has closed down most of the crags in the area, which I do understand. I guess my question is, is there a “safe” way to social distance and sport climb with other people right now? Or is that practically impossible. I take covid pretty seriously and I wouldn’t want to put others or myself at risk, but also would love to explore some outdoor climbing in the Bay Area if possible... any thoughts?

Lina Tyrawrote: So I’m moving to the Bay Area in less than a month, specifically Berkeley, and given I have never been to the west coast I was hoping to scope out some of the crags out there. I’m mainly a sport climber and would love to start getting into some multi pitch routes at some point... but obviously this is a pretty tense time to do that.
I read that the Bay Area climbing coalition has closed down most of the crags in the area, which I do understand. I guess my question is, is there a “safe” way to social distance and sport climb with other people right now? Or is that practically impossible. I take covid pretty seriously and I wouldn’t want to put others or myself at risk, but also would love to explore some outdoor climbing in the Bay Area if possible... any thoughts?

Welcome to California (in a month).

I don't live in the Bay Area, but have lived in California for many moons.

I haven't heard of crags being shut down and don't know that a climber's coalition could close them (unless they own the crags).

You should be able to stay 6 feet away from your partner when single-pitch cragging.

Climbing in California is good-to-go. Take the precautions you think appropriate and have fun.

There are the people that say "stay at home," but you are legally allowed to rock climb.

Lina Tyrawrote: So I’m moving to the Bay Area in less than a month, specifically Berkeley, and given I have never been to the west coast I was hoping to scope out some of the crags out there. I’m mainly a sport climber and would love to start getting into some multi pitch routes at some point... but obviously this is a pretty tense time to do that.
I read that the Bay Area climbing coalition has closed down most of the crags in the area, which I do understand. I guess my question is, is there a “safe” way to social distance and sport climb with other people right now? Or is that practically impossible. I take covid pretty seriously and I wouldn’t want to put others or myself at risk, but also would love to explore some outdoor climbing in the Bay Area if possible... any thoughts?

Hi Lina! I appreciate that you're talking about this. I wish more people were. I can tell you what I'm doing to minimize Covid risk, though I'm not in your area.I would love to hear how other Covid-cautious people are climbing.

1. I have one steady weekly outdoor partner who, like me, is being cautious about Covid in everyday life - and so are all housemates for both of us. We both were deliberately looking for a Covid-aware partner to be in a small bubble with.
2. We drive separately, no carpooling. Talking in a closed car is one of the highest risk things for Covid.
3. We look for less popular crags to avoid other people, and we proactively communicate with other climbers around us. If we can't stay more than 6 feet from other people, we leave as soon as we can.
4. Masks on when we're within 6 feet of each other or other people, and the climber wears a mask when they're directly over the belayer until they're about 20 feet away, because gravity rains whatever droplets there are down toward the belayer.
5. Hand sanitizer before eating or touching face, or other appropriate times.
6. For right now, we're only doing single pitch to minimize contact between the two of us at belays. I'm also not sure how polite other climbers are being about passing and trying to share belay/rap stations. I definitely don't want to be trapped on a small ledge with some unmasked rando clipped into my anchor and talking in my face. We might ease into multi-pitch if we're pretty sure no one else will be climbing up or rapping down on us.
7. Neither of us is climbing in a gym right now. The gym seems like one of the highest risk factors for exposure especially if there are people doing cardio and not great ventilation, as is the case in many climbing gyms.

FrankPSwrote:

Welcome to California (in a month).

I don't live in the Bay Area, but have lived in California for many moons.

I haven't heard of crags being shut down and don't know that a climber's coalition could close them (unless they own the crags).

You should be able to stay 6 feet away from your partner when single-pitch cragging.

Climbing in California is good-to-go. Take the precautions you think appropriate and have fun.

There are the people that say "stay at home," but you are legally allowed to rock climb.

Great, thank you! Yeah just wanted to see what people are saying over there.

L Kapwrote:

Hi Lina! I appreciate that you're talking about this. I wish more people were. I can tell you what I'm doing to minimize Covid risk, though I'm not in your area.I would love to hear how other Covid-cautious people are climbing.

1. I have one steady weekly outdoor partner who, like me, is being cautious about Covid in everyday life - and so are all housemates for both of us. We both were deliberately looking for a Covid-aware partner to be in a small bubble with.
2. We drive separately, no carpooling. Talking in a closed car is one of the highest risk things for Covid.
3. We look for less popular crags to avoid other people and communicate with other climbers around us. If we can't stay more than 6 feet from other people, we leave as soon as we can.
4. Masks on when we're within 6 feet of each other or other people, and the climber wears a mask when they're directly over the belayer until they're about 20 feet away, because gravity rains whatever droplets there are down toward the belayer.
5. Hand sanitizer before eating or touching face, or other appropriate times.
6. For right now, we're only doing single pitch to minimize contact between the two of us at belays. I'm also not sure how polite other climbers are being about passing and trying to share belay/rap stations. I definitely don't want to be trapped on a small ledge with some unmasked rando clipped into my anchor and talking in my face. We might ease into multi-pitch if we're pretty sure no one else will be climbing up or rapping down on us.
7. Neither of us is climbing in a gym right now. The gym seems like one of the highest risk factors for exposure especially if there are people doing cardio and not great ventilation, as is the case in many climbing gyms.

This is a great procedure, I hope I can find some good climbing partners or partner who will do that with me haha. I plan to be as careful as I possibly can. You’re right, being in the same car is one of the worst ideas, as are gyms.

The climber's coalition never closed anything, they were just trying to report what was closed so you had one website to look at rather than trying to find info from various government agencies that often didn't update their websites with latest info.  Berkeley climbing areas are still closed otherwise everything else is open I believe.  The bay area has taken a very conservative approach to covid and so we are still supposed to be in shelter in place even though our numbers haven't exploded like other areas.  However given that socal is blowing up, SIP will not end soon and state parks may close again any day.  Tahoe has been swamped at 4th of July and so also may decide to ban non-locals again.  Recreation is still supposed to be local whatever that means for you, clearly though many people are going to Tahoe for the weekend (or longer).  Crags are busy not just with climbers but also the approach trails can be full of everyone who didn't hike before but that needs to do something to keep them sane.  If you are seriously worried about covid then it will be tough to maintain social distance at any local crag with moderates. From what I've seen myself there are plenty of climbers at the local crags who act like it's pre-covid times, i.e. large groups and no social distancing.  I've left crags early or pre emptively quite a few times due to the risk of more exposure than I was comfortable with.  My advice would be find a partner who is willing to otherwise isolate themselves as much as possible and who has similar risk tolerance.  Then either climb crags without easier routes i.e. nothing 10a and below or go to more obscure crags with longer approaches (an hour approach weeds out 90%) and/or avoid weekends.  My advice would be to check it out - if you show up and the parking lot is full, that's probably a good sign not to bother with the hike in.  L Kap had some great advice there - one thing to note - almost no gyms are open in the bay - PG Belmont opened recently and I wouldn't be surprised if that closes soon.  That's not true outside of the bay though, Vertex in Napa for example I believe has been open a long time.  

Simon Leighwrote: one thing to note - almost no gyms are open in the bay - PG Belmont opened recently and I wouldn't be surprised if that closes soon.  That's not true outside of the bay though, Vertex in Napa for example I believe has been open a long time.  

All gyms in California in counties on the State Covid Monitoring List for 3 consecutive days are closed as of Monday due to Gavin's updated order. 

Counties affected by the new gym closure regulations as of Monday the 13th are: (list doesn't include counties that don't allow for gym to be open anyways like Alameda or SF) 

• Colusa
• Contra Costa
• Fresno
• Glenn
• Imperial
• Kings
• Los Angeles
• Madera
• Marin
• Merced
• Monterey
• Napa
• Orange
• Placer
• Riverside
• Sacramento
• San Benito
• San Bernardino
• San Diego
• San Joaquin
• Santa Barbara
• Solano
• Sonoma
• Stanislaus
• Sutter
• Tulare
• Yolo
• Yuba
• Ventura

In northern California most "adventure climbers" climb trad in the Sierra and Yosemite in my experience, and they are out there climbing regardless of covid but do so using "common sense". It's hard to get in Yosemite right now though. Driving 3 to 6 hours to be in the mountains is very normal for trad climbers who live in the Bay Area.

With that said, there is sport climbing and bouldering all around here for all levels. Some sport areas I've been at include Pinnacles National Park, Castle Rock, Mickey's Beach, various Tahoe areas, and more. There is a Bay Area guide book you should check out. I was at Mickey's Beach last Sunday and it wasn't crowded at all, but if you're worried about touching the same holds as others, then it's definitely going to be an issue for you.

To be honest, if you're super concerned about covid and you primarily do sport, then it's going to be a bit difficult to get a lot of climbing in. However, it's not impossible with partners that have similar goals and mindsets.