New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #12

Wow!  I went to reply to @dragons and it said that the thread was locked!  I thought, "Damn, MP is getting pretty rough these days if this thread is getting locked!!!"

;)

Turned out it was just another 50 pages down of us chatting over coffee and keeping it calm and peaceful.

Not sure if I am allowed to start the next thread being a relatively low post contributor to this series but I wanted to let @dragons know that I love Whitehorse but it is always a bit of a gut-check as everything seems so run out but that I would LOVE to share a rope with him next summer when I'm back between leaving Europe and moving to wherever the Army sends me for my final two years until retirement!

@drgaons, consider it a date!

Got out and led a few routes today, a 14, 16 and 18. I was just going to TR the 18 but was encouraged to lead it, glad I did.
Haven't done any leading for weeks and weeks so I was nervous. I think I'll always be nervous leading unless I do a lot more of it. 

Buck Rogers wrote: 

Turned out it was just another 50 pages down of us chatting over coffee and keeping it calm and peaceful.

Thank you, Buck!  That's exactly what it is... chatting over coffee.  From different parts of the world, on many different kinds of rock...and with vast differences in experience, yet somehow we have managed to make friendships and keep chatting.  It's been the next best thing to sitting around that campfire...

The last thread ended with a bang.

"Daniel Joder · 13 hours ago · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Guy Keese wrote: 
Hi- All. I’m not going to get Political on you all. Just say this.... I’m actually working to get a President Elected. I see a bright future for our Nation.

Lori- I have a climbing strategy I use- it’s a proven method- for me at least. Maybe you can incorporate some of it.    
#1: Build on success. Go from one success to another (DC beat you last time you tried it, did you really think you were ready to get it this time)
#2: Warm up for the root. Doing a big hike, jumping jacks etc get your blood moving- and you need to do this also, but I’m talking about technique, specifically crack climbing. It would have been good to go climb Upper Right Ski-Track - a simple crack climb close by -first just to get into the groove of it (crack climbing). For the days main objective.
#3: Be patent. Do a whole bunch of 5.6 climbs, cracks, face, chimneys, laybacks- get proficient at the grade before moving up a grade. (This relates to #1)              
#4: Train effectively. Doing pull-ups etc at the work out Gym is fine- builds strength. I’m talking about The ability to hang on to the rocks. How many laps can you do on “Gun Smoke”? Me: in my prime ONE. But trying over and over and over till failure made me stronger. Go and figure out a circuit you can do and do it over and over. Some great problems right In HVCG. (The ECHO one sounds great, get it dialed and your foot work will improve as will your calf’s and legs. You have the whole park right at the tip of your fingers, use it) Lastly- you’re a decent belayer now, find a good partner and have a hit list of the 5.6, 5.7 climbs you want someone to lead for you. In return offer to belay on people’s projects, spend hours doing this for someone if needed. I think this success thing works and hopefully after getting confident you can start to lead the climbs you’re sure you can do.                
After following your journey for 2 odd years I can see that you have improved a lot. I feel (my own observation) like you have skipped around some- tried climbs that “right now” are above your abilities. These have lead to failures for you and pulled down your confidence. (To add, nothing wrong with trying something too hard for you- you get to gage yourself.) But work to be able to walk up to a climb and confidently climb it using the skills you know you possess

Get cracking.

-----------------------

Guy, thank you so much for taking the time to write this.  It's EXACTLY what I was looking for.  Perhaps Brandt and I can do some sharing.  I would be HAPPY to belay all day... on anything within my belaying abilities.  Nelson and I have fallen into that kind of arrangement because he knows I love to belay and watch him climb stuff I could never do.  After I struggled on DC, he asked if I'd mind belaying him as he tried out Route 499 right next to it (11b).  A real honor, especially the crux moves close to the top.   He can plaster himself onto the sheerest faces and just find a way up. 

I know everyone has their climbing area, and I HOPE everyone continues to share and talk about them.  Right now, I have Joshua Tree and it feels like one glorious summer vacation.  Unbelievable.

As for Double Cross, I did make it up DC the first try 18 months ago... but I shouldn't have.  I think rgold touched on this previously.  Thrashing up a project, barely making it by hook or crook, is not the point.  Wouldn't it be great to tie in before a route like that and just KNOW how to climb it, and have the strength and technical skill to do so with some ease?  The answer has to be volume.  Or Bob's hopeful wisdom... 10,000 hours at something before you are an expert?  Ok, 9500+ hours to go.  

I think I'm a solid 5.6 climber here... with some wonderful 10c's out of nowhere.  But I could spend this summer on 5.6's, having a really good time, and honing those skills. Chimney's, cracks, DIHEDRALS!!! (kill my hips)... My favorite route here so far, (I don't know why), is this beautiful route I named Reverse Mini-Illusion Dweller.      I believe it's real name is Leaping Leaner.  5.7   This is one Jeremy took me on, and as I was tying in he hopped off of a high boulder and onto the route... over my head.  I believe this is how it got its name.  This is NOT how I got onto the route.      But what a satisfying, PERFECT hand crack.  


You mentioned Gunsmoke.  Will the kids laugh if I head over there and get to work?  It would be the perfect rock to get strong on...  I just happened to be too intimidated to follow this group that day.  And what's etiquette with the crash pads?  Do you bring your own?  I guess I should have one.    



DWIGHT.  You did not tell me this!!!      Ok, maybe you did.    

Buck Rogers wrote: Wow!  I went to reply to @dragons and it said that the thread was locked!  I thought, "Damn, MP is getting pretty rough these days if this thread is getting locked!!!"

;)

Turned out it was just another 50 pages down of us chatting over coffee and keeping it calm and peaceful.

Not sure if I am allowed to start the next thread being a relatively low post contributor to this series but I wanted to let @dragons know that I love Whitehorse but it is always a bit of a gut-check as everything seems so run out but that I would LOVE to share a rope with him next summer when I'm back between leaving Europe and moving to wherever the Army sends me for my final two years until retirement!

@drgaons, consider it a date!

Buck, I'm a "she" but if you are ever in the area, just shoot me a PM and I will do my best to make it happen! Bill (my bf and main climbing partner) usually doesn't like climbing in a party of 3, but maybe he can be convinced.

It's funny, but after being here a few years and still not really getting beyond 5.7, I definitely started to take the routes that I can do for granted. Well, a little bit. But every time we get to the top of Beginner's, Cormier-Magness, Beginners Easy, etc., I think, "dang this is one of the best places to live for climbing". I just wish there was more of it.

Daniel Joder, you'd said:

we all want to push into the harder grades, add more difficult and hairier climbs to our bucket and tick lists, etc. The 5.8 climber has a dream list of 5.9 climbs. The 5.9 climber is eyeballing the 5.10 across the way.

Yup, that applies to me. You also said:

I'd be perfectly happy touring all the great climbing areas of the world or the U.S./Canada and doing all the 5.2 to 5.7 classics.

Yup, I also think that applies to me - there's enough of that out there to occupy the rest of my time on earth. I will keep thinking of a way to make this happen, although it might involve going it on my own, since my bf doesn't seem inclined that way. Logistically, it will not be easy, but perhaps there's a way to make it possible.

Problem is, as much as I love these local easy multipitches, I just lose my psyche going up Beginner's Easy for the 5th, 6th, 7th... time each season. I want to onsight something new, try something different - maybe something that's a little more of a challenge. The only way to do that in my area is to move up the grades. There are still some areas we can climb that take multi-hour hikes to get to, but I don't think either me or my partner are in shape for that right now.

Lori Milas wrote:

Thank you, Buck!  That's exactly what it is... chatting over coffee.  From different parts of the world, on many different kinds of rock...and with vast differences 

 
It's been heartwarming to me that young hot climbers are not looking at most of us as too old to bother with.  

Met three young climbers in the Red Rock campground.  One experienced, two new to multi-pitch.  First visit to Red Rock for the group.  They wanted me to lead them up Birdland, which I did.  If their ages were added together, they we're collectively younger than me.  After the climb we swapped stories and beers around the campfire.
For me it was a nice experience to be out with such nice young guys.

Idaho Bob wrote: Met three young climbers in the Red Rock campground.  One experienced, two new to multi-pitch.  First visit to Red Rock for the group.  They wanted me to lead them up Birdland, which I did.  If their ages were added together, they we collectively younger than me.  After the climb we swapped stories and beers around the campfire.
For me it was a nice experience to be out with such nice young guys.

This is the best!  Love it.

All of my climbing partners are at least a decade younger than me.  They all climb much harder than I do (my top is 5.10-easy lead on sport and 5.8 on trad) but they are still willing to climb with me.  

Granted, none of them lead trad so that helps me find partners but they still go on sport with me as well.

But I love hanging out with them.  They make me stay, and feel, young and i love that!

dragons wrote:

Buck, I'm a "she" but if you are ever in the area, just shoot me a PM and I will do my best to make it happen! Bill (my bf and main climbing partner) usually doesn't like climbing in a party of 3, but maybe he can be convinced.

Sorry!  I'm not very good with gender differentiation on the net but I'd still love to climb with you and/or your bf.  

I should be back for a few weeks in northern VT next summer looking for partners and I'll be more than happy to drive to North Conway for a day or two of multi-pitch trad!

"And what's etiquette with the crash pads?  Do you bring your own?  I guess I should have one." No one would mind at all if you used their crash pad. In my experience everyone just throws a whole heap down, but normally most people do have their own.
Doing a traverse like that of fun and is a great way to warm up and also get stronger...

Lori Milas wrote: 
You mentioned Gunsmoke.  Will the kids laugh if I head over there and get to work?  It would be the perfect rock to get strong on...  I just happened to be too intimidated to follow this group that day.  And what's etiquette with the crash pads?  Do you bring your own?  I guess I should have one.    

DWIGHT.  You did not tell me this!!!      Ok, maybe you did.    

If there are pads in place, you should consider it fair to use them too. Looks like everyone contributed a pad or two. 

Just get next in line and take a turn. I'm 100% positive that people will be helpful (maybe too much so). Get on it, work on a section until you can move past it and on to the next bit. There are some definite "cruxy" sections (the first being between the two people on the rock in the picture. The next just before and at the corner far to the right.

Yet, I have to wonder what pads are doing draped along the base of Gunsmoke, as you are so close to the ground that a fall onto flat ground is hardly risky. You might actually have a bigger risk of turning an ankle (or worse) if you land on the edge or between pads.

Here is an old shot of Sarah (being spotted by Samantha - now a Junior in College) getting the left hand set up for the long reach right.

Went bouldering outdoors today, sent a V4 as well as some easier stuff. Quite chuffed, haven't sent a V4 for ages. There was a group of younger climbers there, I was the first one to get the V4, which was cool. It was cool working out the sequence, very small, sharp crimps with poor feet.
I love bouldering with all the young uns and talking shit and having a good time... 

Lori Milas wrote: Guy Keese wrote:
Hi- All. I’m not going to get Political on you all. Just say this.... I’m actually working to get a President Elected. I see a bright future for our Nation.

Lori- I have a climbing strategy I use- it’s a proven method- for me at least. Maybe you can incorporate some of it.    
#1: Build on success. Go from one success to another (DC beat you last time you tried it, did you really think you were ready to get it this time)
#2: Warm up for the root. Doing a big hike, jumping jacks etc get your blood moving- and you need to do this also, but I’m talking about technique, specifically crack climbing. It would have been good to go climb Upper Right Ski-Track - a simple crack climb close by -first just to get into the groove of it (crack climbing). For the days main objective.
#3: Be patent. Do a whole bunch of 5.6 climbs, cracks, face, chimneys, laybacks- get proficient at the grade before moving up a grade. (This relates to #1)              
#4: Train effectively. Doing pull-ups etc at the work out Gym is fine- builds strength. I’m talking about The ability to hang on to the rocks. How many laps can you do on “Gun Smoke”? Me: in my prime ONE. But trying over and over and over till failure made me stronger. Go and figure out a circuit you can do and do it over and over. Some great problems right In HVCG. (The ECHO one sounds great, get it dialed and your foot work will improve as will your calf’s and legs. You have the whole park right at the tip of your fingers, use it) Lastly- you’re a decent belayer now, find a good partner and have a hit list of the 5.6, 5.7 climbs you want someone to lead for you. In return offer to belay on people’s projects, spend hours doing this for someone if needed. I think this success thing works and hopefully after getting confident you can start to lead the climbs you’re sure you can do.                
After following your journey for 2 odd years I can see that you have improved a lot. I feel (my own observation) like you have skipped around some- tried climbs that “right now” are above your abilities. These have lead to failures for you and pulled down your confidence. (To add, nothing wrong with trying something too hard for you- you get to gage yourself.) But work to be able to walk up to a climb and confidently climb it using the skills you know you possess

Get cracking.

-----------------------

Guy, thank you so much for taking the time to write this.  It's EXACTLY what I was looking for.  Perhaps Brandt and I can do some sharing.  I would be HAPPY to belay all day... on anything within my belaying abilities.  Nelson and I have fallen into that kind of arrangement because he knows I love to belay and watch him climb stuff I could never do.  After I struggled on DC, he asked if I'd mind belaying him as he tried out Route 499 right next to it (11b).  A real honor, especially the crux moves close to the top.   He can plaster himself onto the sheerest faces and just find a way up.

I know everyone has their climbing area, and I HOPE everyone continues to share and talk about them.  Right now, I have Joshua Tree and it feels like one glorious summer vacation.  Unbelievable.

As for Double Cross, I did make it up DC the first try 18 months ago... but I shouldn't have.  I think rgold touched on this previously.  Thrashing up a project, barely making it by hook or crook, is not the point.  Wouldn't it be great to tie in before a route like that and just KNOW how to climb it, and have the strength and technical skill to do so with some ease?  The answer has to be volume.  Or Bob's hopeful wisdom... 10,000 hours at something before you are an expert?  Ok, 9500+ hours to go.  

I think I'm a solid 5.6 climber here... with some wonderful 10c's out of nowhere.  But I could spend this summer on 5.6's, having a really good time, and honing those skills. Chimney's, cracks, DIHEDRALS!!! (kill my hips)... My favorite route here so far, (I don't know why), is this beautiful route I named Reverse Mini-Illusion Dweller.      I believe it's real name is Leaping Leaner.  5.7   This is one Jeremy took me on, and as I was tying in he hopped off of a high boulder and onto the route... over my head.  I believe this is how it got its name.  This is NOT how I got onto the route.      But what a satisfying, PERFECT hand crack.  

You mentioned Gunsmoke.  Will the kids laugh if I head over there and get to work?  It would be the perfect rock to get strong on...  I just happened to be too intimidated to follow this group that day.  And what's etiquette with the crash pads?  Do you bring your own?  I guess I should have one.    

DWIGHT.  You did not tell me this!!!      Ok, maybe you did.    

Dwight??? You forgot my name already?

Geez. You forget my name, forget what I told you.
I may forget to post to this thread.

Bouldering pads on Gunsmoke? Lololololololollololololololol!!!

I wrote a climbing poem. Forgive me.

You need to/You've got to
by Carl

You've got to be cognisant of little things,
Said Henry to Henrietta's son.

You've got to take note of the little things,
My son.

You've got to bite down hard,
With your fingertips,
My son.

You've got to bite down hard,
Around the finger,
Wrap tight,
That thumb.

And now you forgot the foot,
Forgot the foot my son.

It caused your core to be more...
Of a?
Of a?
Of a slurry?
My son?

You need to move your hips,
Like you're in the act,
Of making,
A son.

You need to move your hips,
Towards yours eyes and hands,
To have won.

Carl Schneider wrote: 
You've got to bite down hard,
Around the finger,
Wrap tight,
That thumb.

And now you forgot the foot,
Forgot the foot my son.

I love your poem, Carl!  That one's sexy!  

Your words caught my eye today because as I was working on my slab traverse yesterday I had a similar thought: you've got to bite down hard with that toe.  On steep slab it does seem to be incredibly about toe power and willfulness.  I'm getting better at it.   Now to start back with the fingers...    

So proud of you for not letting up... for continuing to climb during these times, and staying strong and having fun.  Thanks for always reporting in to us.    
-------------
It sounds like Helen had a great time and people here are getting out to climb. I'm blown away by how few people are in the Park right now, but how if there is a person within a half mile we get together and introduce ourselves.  I lived in Rocklin 20+ years and rarely met anyone.  Maybe it's the rarity of climbers (relative to the millions of tourists), connections come easy here. 

I was just having my time at the base of Echo Rock and a small group of men showed up to climb to my left with a former guide.  Within minutes one had come over, shaken my hand... I wound up going over there and pulling up a chair to watch the newbys climb.  Before I left I knew everybody's story, swapped names and info, one guy was in a wheelchair but wanted to try climbing with some aid, one guy was making his first desert visit and was having a hard time just taking in the views. He was mindblown... said he needed some time just to grasp what he was looking at.  It does have that effect on people.

So, it was also my first time just roaming around Barker Dam, finding Gunsmoke.  Thank you for the advice, Randy.  Heading in I looked up and saw an amazing formation but I am not sure how to find it in a book.  It HAS to be climbable.  It reminded me immediately of EBGB's.  Does anyone know what it is, and have you climbed it before?  Also, to the left of that face is a slab that also looked incredible.  Maybe I'll hike up there and have a look. 

ADD:  Just in case Gunsmoke is too difficult right out of the gate (will be heading back today), are there some easier routes to work on?  

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain wrote:

Dwight??? You forgot my name already?

Geez. You forget my name, forget what I told you.
I may forget to post to this thread.

Bouldering pads on Gunsmoke? Lololololololollololololololol!!!

Sorry Dwain.  You're really Cosmic to me.      Please come to Josh.  We'll figure out a way.  And you need to get back on some rock!   

Senor, you sent me a link to an article "You Should Be Downloading Your Trail Maps".  I'm feeling completely illiterate right now... because first it seemed time to update my Garmin InReach which I have not used since 2018.  The InReach led me to its "Explorer" page which instructed me to download its Earthmate App.  And what I got was an immediate overload of info.  There are a dozen half-hour videos to watch, but am I on the right track here?  
It's another use it or lose it thing.  At this moment, the only function I can get my head around is the SOS button.  The texting, messaging, navigating...it's all Greek at the moment.  
I know Dallas is good at this, too.  Is there a best-way to get this done?  I wonder if this would have gotten us out of that jam in Landers. 

 

Lori, that formation is Hunk Rock. The routes are only so so.

Lori Milas wrote: Senor, you sent me a link to an article "You Should Be Downloading Your Trail Maps".  I'm feeling completely illiterate right now... because first it seemed time to update my Garmin InReach which I have not used since 2018.  The InReach led me to its "Explorer" page which instructed me to download its Earthmate App.  And what I got was an immediate overload of info.  There are a dozen half-hour videos to watch, but am I on the right track here?  
It's another use it or lose it thing.  At this moment, the only function I can get my head around is the SOS button.  The texting, messaging, navigating...it's all Greek at the moment.  
I know Dallas is good at this, too.  Is there a best-way to get this done?  I wonder if this would have gotten us out of that jam in Landers.

I would learn to use it without the app, first. Actually, I do use it without the app.  One can argue the pros and cons of the app, but it does add another layer of technology, which it sounds like you struggle with. 

Finnish Mr. Pentti, 84 years old bouldering for fun

https://www.facebook.com/boulderkeskus/videos/2740330036292763/UzpfSTEwMDAwNjQzOTUwODY2OTozMjM3MDAxNDgzMTkxMTM3/?notif_id=1593352983694841&notif_t=feedback_reaction_generic

Lori Milas wrote:

I love your poem, Carl!  That one's sexy!  

Your words caught my eye today because as I was working on my slab traverse yesterday I had a similar thought: you've got to bite down hard with that toe.  On steep slab it does seem to be incredibly about toe power and willfulness.  I'm getting better at it.   Now to start back with the fingers...    

So proud of you for not letting up... for continuing to climb during these times, and staying strong and having fun.  Thanks for always reporting in to us.    

Thank you. I did a slab climb on Saturday and a slab boulder problem on Sunday. I used to hate slab but i really like it now. I like how you really need to think. Think about balance, about using the tiniest of holds, and often need to be very clever with your feet; step throughs etc.

I had a pretty good weekend climbing. I'm sore now but happy.

Buck Rogers wrote: Wow!  I went to reply to @dragons and it said that the thread was locked!  I thought, "Damn, MP is getting pretty rough these days if this thread is getting locked!!!"

;)

Turned out it was just another 50 pages down of us chatting over coffee and keeping it calm and peaceful.

Not sure if I am allowed to start the next thread being a relatively low post contributor to this series but I wanted to let @dragons know that I love Whitehorse but it is always a bit of a gut-check as everything seems so run out but that I would LOVE to share a rope with him next summer when I'm back between leaving Europe and moving to wherever the Army sends me for my final two years until retirement!

@drgaons, consider it a date!

Buck, thank you for your service. I served a gazillion years ago. I was in Germany. Artillery. Just curious, what’s your MOS. What do you do. Sounds like you are transferred alot.