Photos of BEAUTIFUL HARDWARE

French Style with Raumer "Euro" 13mm drop ins.  Testing as an ultra low profile setup.

Very nice! This style I have an issue with though. It is far too easy for both strands of the rope to end up going through the lower clippie, thereby negating it as a backup. All it takes is the belayer or climber moving around or a loop of slack (say while down cleaning) to get hooked on it.

M Spraguewrote:

Very nice! This style I have an issue with though. It is far too easy for both strands of the rope to end up going through the lower clippie, thereby negating it as a backup. All it takes is the belayer or climber moving around or a loop of slack (say while down cleaning) to get hooked on it.

Not out of the realm of possibility for sure but I suspect the chances of that occurring and the top failing in the same timeframe are pretty low.  Some thought into angle of ropes entering the lower clip and steepness are required for sure (steeper stuff is less likely to be an issue as the rope must be extremely close to the rock to double clip in the bottom one).  With French setups, I always try to have the rope run through the lower clip, then the upper so the lowering leader's rope is a straight shot to the ground.  Less stuff to get messes up.  Perhaps not pictured well is the stiff wire gate and narrow opening that also reduces this chance.  I'd be curious how this risk compares to dual carabiners that are more mobile but also have but larger clipping areas for the rope to enter into...

I would think the stiffness of the clippie would make it more likely to happen vs biners which can move with the rope pushing on it. A stiff gated SS biner which can move would probably be less likely.

M Spraguewrote:

Very nice! This style I have an issue with though. It is far too easy for both strands of the rope to end up going through the lower clippie, thereby negating it as a backup. All it takes is the belayer or climber moving around or a loop of slack (say while down cleaning) to get hooked on it.

I too would be much happier with the French style if the lower anchor required threading and re-tying

timothy fisherwrote:

I too would be much happier with the French style if the lower anchor required threading and re-tying

Than you are adding a big potential failure point in the procedure. The beefy horn on the lower bolt connected by links to the upper config takes care of that; no having to untie.

M Spraguewrote:

Than you are adding a big potential failure point in the procedure. The beefy horn on the lower bolt connected by links to the upper config takes care of that; no having to untie.

Agreed. I will go on record as a fan of connected vertical. French style not so much.

Bruce Hildenbrandwrote:

Greg Barnes at the ASCA showed me a very simple trick for verifying that your glue is mixed properly.  When he gets the glue flowing out of the nozzle, the first thing he does is squirt a small amount into a plastic, Ziploc, bag.  Once he is done placing his bolts, he goes back to the glue in the bag to make sure that it was mixed properly in the nozzle and will set up safely.

Yes of course. Its good to do a little test sample first. That's what my crew does as well. Also keep an eye on things afterwards and make sure its dispensing properly or part of the system is not damaged. And even though expired glue can still be strong, best to make sure the material is not compromised from things like multiple days of hard freezing, etc, which can also make it dispense/mix improperly. 

Eric Berghornwrote: Not my work. Any guesses where this anchor replacement took place ? Which route ? ;)

That's easy, What's the Point?  at the Point.

EDIT: Since this thread is "Beautiful Hardware" look a bit closer at the disintegrating stainless steel bolts above the titanium rings.      

Will add a few more after seeing the glue mess in the hammer thread ;)  

Yes, there's a bit of funk above the bolts - that's patching chopped wedges.  It will blend in quickly with the lichen etc after a season or so...

mattmwrote: Will add a few more after seeing the glue mess in the hammer thread ;)  

Looks like a great anchor! Why not offset the new holes a few inches away from the old wedgies? 

mattmwrote: Will add a few more after seeing the glue mess in the hammer thread ;)  

Yes, there's a bit of funk above the bolts - that's patching chopped wedges.  It will blend in quickly with the lichen etc after a season or so...

Are those Stainless biners? If so what brand?

Matthew Jaggerswrote:

Are those Stainless biners? If so what brand?

Nope, looks like they are plated climbtech biners.

Ken Noycewrote:

Nope, looks like they are plated climbtech biners.

Correct. With mussys MIA, local ORG bought these as an alt. I’m curious to see how they weather/wear. 

Why the quick links at the captive biners?

Ackley The Improvedwrote: Why the quick links at the captive biners?

I am quessing for biner orietation. Bolt comes with 4 links. Might have been nice to put a single pigtail linking the chains?

timothy fisherwrote:

I am quessing for biner orietation. Bolt comes with 4 links. Might have been nice to put a single pigtail linking the chains?

Trust me - I lobbied for Ramshorns here.  Due to common use of Mussy or Biners in other local areas (along with other motivations) the ramshorn was rejected.  I've bolted every anchor such that it COULD be converted over in the future mind you...  QLs line the biners up correctly.  Just captive pins require odd #s That and most will be moved over to Mussy Hooks when stock returns.

jonathan knightwrote: 

Gorgeous set up! Beautiful stone 

Managed to clean up this mess.  Nothing fancy on the finished product - just standard side-by-side with mussys.  I wanted to reuse 2 of the old holes, and this is the standard configuration at the crag.

What was your thought process behind replacing the wedge bolts? They look fine in the photo so I’m just curious what was going on with them