Controlling gumby crowds 101 /sarcasm

Somebody removed hangers from routes easier than 5.12 at Lion's Head in Ontario, Canada

Article - https://gripped.com/news/routes-at-lions-heads-latvian-ledge-removed-by-anonymous-climbers/

In early June, 2020, the hangers were removed from all of the bolted routes easier than 5.12 at the Latvian Ledge area at Lions Head. The area comprises the centre of moderate to easy climbing on the Niagara Escarpment’s most beautiful cliff and is popular with climbers from as far away as the American mid-west who flock there every weekend in the summer season.

Burlington, Ontario climber Patrick Ryan, who visits the area several times a year, was shocked by the news. “We always go there. It’s the only place on the whole cliff and it’s breathtaking. It’s a fun scene. People share ropes and beta. Now I guess we can’t, unless someone puts the hangers back.” Others commented on social media that “it’s not your crag because you climb 5.12,”that the gear removal was “gutless” and “elitism at its finest” and that “the local economy could use the tourism” of moderate climbers.
The heavy use of the Latvian Ledge area, however, has led to significant erosion and the presence of a concentration of moderate climbers on a mostly steep and difficult cliff has irked some regulars. Even those who climb there frequently admitted that climbers in the area could keep a lower profile. For both reasons, the idea of removing the routes from the Latvian Ledge area has been mooted for years by Lions Head activists.

Wow. 

Your new sport rack includes 12 hangers and a wrench.

8/10. I lol’d

I can neither confirm nor deny 

Yeah- wow. Elitist bullshit privilege bullshit at its worst.  I f-ing hate this attitude.  Real "activists" would put their money where their mouth is and remove ALL the bolts... if they really have their panties in a bunch about environmental issues.

Doctor Drakewrote: 8/10. I lol’d

It's news, not a troll post.

Well, considering that hardish warm-up routes start at about 13b/8a, anything below that needs to also get the axe.

I feel like this is missing local context: How much foot traffic is from parties on the removed routes vs the hard routes? Is it a location where guiding outfits regularly set up ropes, etc? Have those outfits or groups ignored requests to limit traffic in that area? Did the local climbing org have plans to mitigate the erosion? Are there other areas that will now be inundated with those who would have climbed here? 

"nothing like trying to concentrate on a crimpy 5.12 when some dude is dangling and clawing"

i am WHEEZING

Who uses hangers anyway? Just carry zip ties and a rack of nuts.  

Use the carrot bolt plates (https://www.climbing.com/places/the-carrot-bolt-an-australian-icon/).

This must have been done by someone who couldn't climb 5.12 and they just couldn't get the rest down.

What happened to simply taking a shit at the base of a route you don't like?

F Loydwrote: What happened to simply taking a shit at the base of a route you don't like?

Or shitting on someone’s ropes. I can’t imagine anyone doing that these days, it’s a damn shame.

Rig a top rope from the trees at the top maybe?  Then you can place hangers on rap, assuming there's a walk-around.

That sort of attitude makes me want to go there just so I can dangle and claw up 5.8s to annoy the 5.12 climbers, heh heh heh.  Well, except it sounds like there might be access issues involved, so maybe I should keep my out-of-towner opinions to myself.

Nathan Sullivanwrote: Rig a top rope from the trees at the top maybe?

Oh, top roping is not permitted, per the OAC.  Interesting.  I wonder if that includes top roping from bolts too, or just rigging your own?

If toproping isn't allowed, I'm wondering if the bolts were chopped on lead as well.

Gonna be pretty funny when someone chops all the hard routes as well now, this is a good way to start a shit show.....

This seems like the kind of situation that when the land managers catch wind of a "bolt war", the easiest action is to close climbing.  short sighted at best. 

Reminds me of when we stripped all the 11 and under routes from Jailhouse. Quality of experience went way up.

After all, you wouldn't expect F1 drivers to share the track with driver's ed students, right? Those kids could get hurt and they slow everyone down.

Marc801 Cwrote:

It's news, not a troll post.

Still funnier than most trolls on the proj