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New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #11

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375
Idaho Bobwrote: 
For those heading to City of Rocks (elevation 6,500 ft) next weekend, this was my driveway in McCall (elevation 5,000 ft) this afternoon.  I'll be there with friends from Boulder, hope we don't see too much of this.

Yeah, snow forecast at City tonight and tomorrow night, but windy and above freezing during the day. I think my trip is good! Yours? Hmmmm....they have rain down for next Saturday, but the forecast a week out rarely means much. 


January 17th! It was deep powder and we were postholing, even with snowshoes, but we did have the entire park complete to ourselves! I'm guessing it will be fine, so have fun with your friends!

Lori, your soup sounds great! My climbing partner here in Boise is traveling with me on this Tuesday through Friday first of the season trip. Fritz is coming up from SLC, headed to Wyoming for the summer. I expect we'll meet others there also! I'll probably be there a number of times, so if anyone is up this way, let me know.

September 10-21 are the actual camping reservations for any of you who are interested and able to come up/over/down to City for an MP get together! The group site for part of it, four regular campsites for the whole thing.

Best, Helen

Andrew Rice · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 11

Re. rattlers.

You don't have to look for them in all the places they could be hiding. If they're hiding, all is well. Just look where you are putting your hands and feet. And, yeah, they can climb up to places you really wouldn't expect to see one.

I was in Mexico last summer and my friends' dog got bit on the face. We gave him Benedryl to control the potential for anaphylactic shock and drove him two hours to the nearest vet. The Mexican vets don't have antivenom but they see a lot of ranch dogs that get bit. What they told us was this: Both people and dogs survive bites most the time unless, in the case of the human, there's something wrong with the person to begin with or, in the case of dogs, if they get bit on the tongue. Get bit on the tongue and it swells up fast and game over. So don't try to lick any rattlers. The real medical complications they warned about with rattlesnake bites were necrosis from the venom and secondary infection. The dog's head swelled up like a football and he still has a cool scar on his muzzle to this day, but all is well. They just gave him IV fluids and antibiotics for a few days and pain meds. 

Murf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 2,159
Lori Milaswrote: I've created a little summer project (Echo Rock Traverse.  I don't know why I thought it was called Black Tide).  It's a 100 foot traverse I can work on alone.  My goal is to work it clean by end of summer...

Since Bob is the slab-guru I'm trying to follow his rules.  
1) Make sure shoe soles are squeaky clean.
2) Nose over toes
3) Keep heels down, and away from rock
4) Place hands first before taking next step
5) Wear reading glasses (actually, that's my rule)

Not sure I've posted in this one yet.

A perhaps metaphysical Josh slab climbing mantra; you just have to believe the feet will hold, even when you are sure it won't. Slab climbing is, in general a matter of faith, mostly in your feet!  You're doing it correctly when you can't believe you haven't fallen yet!

Carl Schneider · · Mount Torrens, South Australia · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

Had a nice climb at the bouldering club today. First week back there, I went Tuesday night and Thursday night and had definitely NOT recovered from Tues on Thurs. However, I felt I certainly had today after 16 hours sleep (yes, seriously, was in bed by 630 last night  
As I was finishing one climb a guy I speak to from time to time there said "You've still got it Carl" which was nice... 

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250
Russ Walling wrote: Still waiting on my prize for guessing those climbs.....

Russ, I think the best prize I can give you is that you DON'T have to escort me on this route.    We'll leave that to some other poor fool.  

But yes, you got it right away, even with my crappy pictures.  

Amazing thing about this place... everywhere I look is another rock I've never seen before, another wall, another route.  It's like the old Sears Catalogues we got every year before Christmas... just pour over all the toys and pick the one you really want.  Josh is one big Sears Catalogue.

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250
Murfwrote:

Not sure I've posted in this one yet.

A perhaps metaphysical Josh slab climbing mantra; you just have to believe the feet will hold, even when you are sure it won't. Slab climbing is, in general a matter of faith, mostly in your feet!  You're doing it correctly when you can't believe you haven't fallen yet!

Hey Murf!  Welcome!  

As I work on these slab projects you are absolutely right on... it's way more about getting used to the idea that feet will stick on this steep rock than about anything else.  Another mantra from Bob Gaines here: he said he just tells himself "Stick, feet!"  It seems to help. 

Idaho Bob · · McCall, ID · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 757

Sometimes when the slab seems really blank, I close my eyes and just feel with my fingertips for something that will provide just a little friction.  Works just about every time and I imagine on the rough texture rock at JT it might be a good technique.

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375

My local rock is columnar black basalt. Described as "greased glass" once it warms up. It wasn't until my first trip to COR that I realized what that black stuff on shoes was supposed to do. Other than make my feet spontaneously combust if we are out when it's sunny and warm.

Now, climbing at other places with way friendlier rock, I have to remind myself that yes, you actually can stand up on that little dimple in the rock...

Sorta related. How far do your ankles bend? I'm getting my knees to go pretty good these days, but ankles are 90 degrees. Period. No keeping heels down past that.

Packing up today! So stoked for a trip!!

Best, Helen

ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 410
Old lady Hwrote: My local rock is columnar black basalt. Described as "greased glass" once it warms up. It wasn't until my first trip to COR that I realized what that black stuff on shoes was supposed to do. Other than make my feet spontaneously combust if we are out when it's sunny and warm.

Now, climbing at other places with way friendlier rock, I have to remind myself that yes, you actually can stand up on that little dimple in the rock...

Sorta related. How far do your ankles bend? I'm getting my knees to go pretty good these days, but ankles are 90 degrees. Period. No keeping heels down past that.

Packing up today! So stoked for a trip!!

Best, Helen

Keep working those calf stretches! Should be able to get 10-15 degrees (toes towards shins from your 90  position).

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375
ErikaNWwrote:

Keep working those calf stretches! Should be able to get 10-15 degrees (toes towards shins from your 90  position).

Sigh. Thanks, though. Maybe it's time to visit a PT again, for the whole mess?

Best, Helen

Dallas R · · Traveling the USA · Joined May 2013 · Points: 191

We had planned on spending a month around Smith Rock State Park but only got this one afternoon.  We will take what we can get.




I had forgotten how much fun the welded tuff is to climb. Lots of little pockets and solid nubbies.  If the world stays semi-sane we will be exploring Okanagan, WA area next week. 
Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250

Dallas, that looks like so much fun!  Great pictures!

I wanted to thank you and Senor and others for the coaching on rattlesnakes.  I still think I could hop off a boulder near enough to startle a snake and cause a bite.  

I would never have known about Benadryl so thank you all for that!  What do you carry in a First Aid kit?  

-----------------------

Also... I will have to go back through these posts before I loose the thread and check out the electric bikes you all mentioned.  They would totally be helpful here in Josh.

(Please mute this video, unless you happen to like Beck Ola. I forgot and left it on). My little traverse project is taking some time.  I am at that place where I need... something.  This wall is pretty sheer, and there are spots where I just can't find another move.  It's so easy to slip off.  I have about 25 feet of 100 feet pretty clear... what I'm hoping is that this slab can help me handle some of the routes I'd really like to get to this year.  Billabong, Loose Lady (again) and other steep slabs.  I'd like to get up and over Cherry Bomb.  But I'm at my limit here...   



Brandt Allen · · Joshua Tree, Cal · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 220

I like the stinkbug doing the insect-size boulder problem in the foreground around the 50 second mark.

Oldtradguy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 15
Lori Milaswrote: Dallas, that looks like so much fun!  Great pictures!

I wanted to thank you and Senor and others for the coaching on rattlesnakes.  I still think I could hop off a boulder near enough to startle a snake and cause a bite.  

I would never have known about Benadryl so thank you all for that!  What do you carry in a First Aid kit?  

-----------------------

Also... I will have to go back through these posts before I loose the thread and check out the electric bikes you all mentioned.  They would totally be helpful here in Josh.

(Please mute this video, unless you happen to like Beck Ola. I forgot and left it on). My little traverse project is taking some time.  I am at that place where I need... something.  This wall is pretty sheer, and there are spots where I just can't find another move.  It's so easy to slip off.  I have about 25 feet of 100 feet pretty clear... what I'm hoping is that this slab can help me handle some of the routes I'd really like to get to this year.  Billabong, Loose Lady (again) and other steep slabs.  I'd like to get up and over Cherry Bomb.  But I'm at my limit here...  

Lori

You are looking pretty good on that slab. Next time play one of my favorites by Jeff Beck Going Down.

The original
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zmzv5xJ4wE4

Or live with Beth Hart
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVc4RSjnb00

John

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250
Brandt Allenwrote: I like the stinkbug doing the insect-size boulder problem in the foreground around the 50 second mark.

Ha ha! I was watching this guy and wondering if he was trying to demonstrate proper slab technique!  And then he made a bee-line for my backpack. 

Brandt, I am so sorry I showed up in queasy shape this week.  I don't know what my problem has been these past few weeks.  I did not want to leave but when I looked at the backside of Cap Rock on my way out it was so cool to see two strong, handsome climbers expertly making a way up. What a memorable profile.   No wonder you have the reputation you do!  Everyone knows and loves Brandt.      

I'd like to know whether you were able to manage that face climb on Cap.  VERY intimidating!

Brandt Allen · · Joshua Tree, Cal · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 220

Two strong, handsome climbers? You must have been watching some other guys.

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250
Oldtradguywrote:

Lori

You are looking pretty good on that slab. Next time play one of my favorites by Jeff Beck Going Down.

The original
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zmzv5xJ4wE4

Or live with Beth Hart
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVc4RSjnb00

John

Wow... what a TREAT!     Who is the singer in the original?  

Was I the only one who followed Rod Stewart from way before he found disco?  I can still listen to his blues with such pleasure. 

Will watch the Beth Hart video, do not know her!  

THANK YOU JOHN!  

Lori Milas · · Joshua Tree, CA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 250
Brandt Allenwrote: Two strong, handsome climbers? You must have been watching some other guys.

You guys looked good.  Trust me.    

Oldtradguy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 15
Lori Milaswrote:

Wow... what a TREAT!     Who is the singer in the original?  

Was I the only one who followed Rod Stewart from way before he found disco?  I can still listen to his blues with such pleasure. 

Will watch the Beth Hart video, do not know her!  

THANK YOU JOHN!  

Lori

Bobby Tench was the singer.

Beth Hart is a phenomenal blues singer. She also does rock.

If you like the blues, check this video of her and Joe Bonamassa  Live in Amsterdam. I am sure that Tony likes the blues since he is from Chicago.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snD7sZZ4fG8&t=410s

John

Kevinmurray · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 0

Jeff Beck is a great guitar player but a bit too frentic for me, more of a Clapton fan. I like Rod but he never connected with me as a blues singer.

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