Trad multi-pitch shoe recommendations - wide forefoot, high arches (not TC Pros)

Hey y'all,

Been having some trouble finding a suitable trad multi-pitch shoe that's sensitive (like Solution's), but comfortable with socks. I have a wide forefoot with high arches. Looking for a shoe that's sensitive enough for granite friction slab, but has enough structure to endure multiple pitches of offwidths. I've used Miura Lace Ups (too narrow in the forefoot), Katakis (great barefoot, but doesn't size up well for socks), Alturas (not sensitive enough), and have tried on TC Pros (kills my Achilles tendon). I'm not sure what models to look at besides the ones I've mentioned - appreciate any helpful relevant suggestions!

Thanks,
Natalie

moccs or evolv the general

caughtinside wrote: The new Scarpa vapor lace might work? I have wide forefoot, arches are probably average. Might be a little too stiff for what you’re looking for. 

Thread hijacking: how is the 2020 vapor lace (compared to the previous 2 models, Sportiva katana lace/kataki or whatever). I felt like I got burned by the bumble bee yellow version, which was a lot softer than the previous orange version, but at least it had a lower toe profile.

Natalie Nwrote:...have tried on TC Pros (kills my Achilles tendon). 

Have you tried cutting the slingshot rand? There’s a thread on it somewhere and it makes a big difference. On the pair of mine that I’ve done it with it hasn’t decreased edging performance at all, and it’s much more comfortable for slab routes. 

Natalie Nwrote: Hey y'all,

... a wide forefoot with high arches. ... TC Pros (kills my Achilles tendon). 

Sounds like the shape of my feet. I have most luck with the Scarpa brand. With your female user name, you may also want to try male shoes (if you find a model that has male/female fit). If you have "oddly" shaped female feet, a male shoe design might fit your foot better.

The new Scarpa Vapor lace model is stiff, great at edging and super cozy for me and my short, wide feet with high arches. Mine are not sized loose enough to wear with socks, but I imagine they would be fine sized up a bit. Sized down they do put pressure on the Achilles’ tendon which helps with overall foot stability. This may go away sizing up, not sure.

The five ten grandstones have a nice wide toe box. 

Maverinks are perfect for granite friction slab but I can't attest to their ability to offwidth. My girlfriend is so happy I got them for her. They're children's equivalent to the geniuses, but without a stiff midsole, making friction slab easier than with other shoes. They don't make them in bigger sizes, but many adults have said great things about them for the purpose that I mentioned. 

Katana lace are worth a shot. 

Mythos. Very comfortable, do well in cracks and on slab.

The Mocs are a bad recommendation, I also have a really high arch and I can’t get into them even upsizing then. I’ve been really happy with the five ten pinks. Down size .5 for a all day trad shoe 

I have the new Vapor laces, and i think there a very nice comfort shoe while maintaining performance, compared to the old model i find the newer one softer. This could be due to the hole in the bottom of the rubber. Really like the toe rubber as it allows you to jam without destroying the fabric. Im wearing one size down form my street size but have also worn 2 sizes down. Heel system seems to be mostly the same although I never found any problems with pain in my heels. the shoe basically fits amazingly as every time I put them on its a almost perfect seal which feels like the shoe is hugging you food. My only complaints are with price so just wait for some good sales.

Five ten teams

It’s all about the shoe having the most fun man go team six pack.

Pinks.

I think this is the thread that was mentioned above about cutting through rubber on TCs: mountainproject.com/forum/t…
That REALLY helped me
I had some 5.10 Mocs but ultimately felt they weren't great
The only time I ever climbed in socks was a cold Sept morning in Banff...
Also, I have pretty wide feet and found Mythos way too narrow

Anasazi VCS

I have a foot similar to yours. I'm very happy with The General from Evolv. Sizing is off from other brands; I wear a 41 in TC, 40.5 in Futura, and a 42.5 in The General! So upsize for the same performance.

Snarky post deleted. Sorry. Couldn't help myself. 

Scarpa Techno X are on clearance online a lot of places; hard to beat a high end trad shoe for <$100.  
Scarpa Maestro (Mid) is designed for what the OP mentioned, it is supposed to be more sensitive (the tension rand design to is supposed to give stiffness/support without a loss of sensitivity) and has a wider forefoot than the Techno X in the same size (or at least for size 48's).
The Maestro fits a 1/2 or size smaller in length than the Techno X although it should stretch out more.

Doctor Drakewrote:

Have you tried cutting the slingshot rand? There’s a thread on it somewhere and it makes a big difference. On the pair of mine that I’ve done it with it hasn’t decreased edging performance at all, and it’s much more comfortable for slab routes. 

This.

I bought a pair about a year aho and could not wear them for more than about 20 minutes secondary to achilles pain and then I found the post about cutting the rand and now they are LIKE BUTTER.  
I've worn them over 50 days now outside climbing and I wore them for 7 straight hours climbing one day last week and no problem.

Just awesaome shoes, once the rand is relaxed, at least for me.