Photos of BEAUTIFUL HARDWARE

David LeBaron wrote: To reiterate what is already known or said. Make sure your glue is mixed properly, or it’s just a bunch of wasted efforts, and dangerous.

Greg Barnes at the ASCA showed me a very simple trick for verifying that your glue is mixed properly.  When he gets the glue flowing out of the nozzle, the first thing he does is squirt a small amount into a plastic, Ziploc, bag.  Once he is done placing his bolts, he goes back to the glue in the bag to make sure that it was mixed properly in the nozzle and will set up safely.

To be clear zinc plated IS galvanized as galvanization refers to the process of coating in zinc. Usually when people say plated they are referring to electroplating which leaves only a thin layer that often wears off quickly. Hot dipped galvanized leaves a much thicker coating and is the shit and will resist rust in many areas for a very long time. Some of the hot dipped galvanized eye bolt glue ins here in the Red (and I'm sure across France and other parts of Europe where they were popular) are 20+ years old and look like the day they were put in. 

Bruce Hildenbrand wrote:

Greg Barnes at the ASCA showed me a very simple trick for verifying that your glue is mixed properly.  When he gets the glue flowing out of the nozzle, the first thing he does is squirt a small amount into a plastic, Ziploc, bag.  Once he is done placing his bolts, he goes back to the glue in the bag to make sure that it was mixed properly in the nozzle and will set up safely.

I take the excess from each bolt and wipe it on my pants in order. (A bit messy but I have bolting pants and it mostly brakes off). So if I do 8 bolts I will have 8 dabs on my pants. if each one hardens to a nice crisp then I know the glue at each bolt has cured.  I had a mixing problem once (black plunger not present in ac100) and it started mixing properly so the first wasted bit cured but the adhesive actually used on the bolts never cured.  

This method is perhaps over the top, but gives me the warm and fuzzies. I am a little gun shy after having to redo a whole route of uncured bolts.

The obviously easy one is to break your tips after they cure.

DrRockso wrote: To be clear zinc plated IS galvanized as galvanization refers to the process of coating in zinc. 

So much for waiting on his first galvanized torch/ welding project

Taylor Krosbakken wrote:

The obviously easy one is to break your tips after they cure.

I just realized that one a couple weeks ago, and I don’t know what took me so long. No need for a sample bag when the nozzle has mixed glue in the tip, which you can check after you get home

Ken Noyce wrote:

Sorry, but that's simply not true, the chain can't be "yellow" without plating, if it wasn't plated it would be a dull grey color.  The yellow on that chain is a yellow chromate that is applied over the zinc plating itself, and it actually makes the chain much more resistant to corrosion than just the standard zinc plating that is the shiny silver color.

From what I’ve seen at places the yellow chain sometimes called transportation chain isn’t plated or galvanized and when I used it, it rusted really bad in just a few months. 

Drew Nevius wrote:

I just realized that one a couple weeks ago, and I don’t know what took me so long. No need for a sample bag when the nozzle has mixed glue in the tip, which you can check after you get home

That's not true. If the tip was working by the end, then it will set up, but if it wasnt working for the first few holes and you didnt have individual samples from every hole, youd never know it by using that method. Separate samples are the only way.

Ma Ja wrote:

That's not true. If the tip was working by the end, then it will set up, but if it wasnt working for the first few holes and you didnt have individual samples from every hole, youd never know it by using that method. Separate samples are the only way.

That’s why I purge 3 pumps before using any glue for bolts, according to the Powers’ directions (for AC-100 gold)

Ed Henicle wrote: For my notches, I drill the hole, then 'drop in from above' with the drill to remove the lower material. I always have a guide bolt with me to make sure I get the notch depth/fit that I'm looking for. In softrock, the bottom of the notch can blow out, but pretty easy to patch up with the glue.  Make sure the notch will allow the bolt to set vertical.

Screen shot from Fixe video

Kevin Daniels is amazing and one of the most knowledgeable around when it comes to Bolting and he’s tot me a lot. When it comes to notching Kevin’s technique here in this video is not the way and should not be taught. There are several notching tools available to do the job right. If you’re using a drill bit to notch like the bolt busters, Then you’re absolutely not taking pride in your work. Click on the video of the bolt busters and watch Ryan Jenkins and Jerry completely destroy a majestic area with a drill bit. We are better than this and the areas we share deserve better. Get your shit together people and quit fucking up our majestic areas and definitely quit teaching people bad techniques. 

Shawn Snyder wrote:

Kevin Daniels is amazing and one of the most knowledgeable around when it comes to Bolting and he’s tot me a lot. When it comes to notching Kevin’s technique here in this video is not the way and should not be taught. There are several notching tools available to do the job right. If you’re using a drill bit to notch like the bolt busters, Then you’re absolutely not taking pride in your work. Click on the video of the bolt busters and watch Ryan Jenkins and Jerry completely destroy a majestic area with a drill bit. We are better than this and the areas we share deserve better. Get your shit together people and quit fucking up our majestic areas and definitely quit teaching people bad techniques. 

So how about you actually add some info on the other methods for notching beyond what is shown in the video.  This way we could all maybe learn something..?

Luke Bertelsen wrote:

So how about you actually add some info on the other methods for notching beyond what is shown in the video.  This way we could all maybe learn something..?

I have done exactly that many times sir. Go back and look at the very first post that Taylor stated and read it. One of the reasons he started this post was because of me and others bitching so much about the nonsense and destruction going on in our national and state parks by climbers. I truthfully believe that the majority of the photos being shown here are still unacceptable and not up to a standard we should be setting as climbers. As far as all learning something goes this is my offer. I don’t believe to be an arrogant person. I am really really good at bolting and working for Metolius all those years taught me a lot. If somebody has video experience and would be interested, I would bring all of my equipment come to you and do a how to video. My other offer is to come to your crag for a few days to do a clinic and teach people the pros and cons. If anybody was interested in this let me know. 

Taylor Krosbakken wrote:

I had a mixing problem once (black plunger not present in ac100) 

We've had this quality control issue several times before as well since powers switched to dewalt. I truly hope dewalt gets their qc issues under control, because I really do like the glue. A good reminder for everyone to inspect their cartridges and in the case of the AC100, confirming the prescence of that black plastic peice. 

  Tristan Burnham wrote:

Is that the yellow chain from the hardware store? It’s super strong but not plated and rusts really fast. Also chop that extra link out at the top. 

Shawn Snyder wrote:

I truthfully believe that the majority of the photos being shown here are still unacceptable

Don’t let perfect become the enemy of the good.

Shane Brown wrote:

Don’t let perfect become the enemy of the good.

All are much better than a web death triangle on 1/4” bolts or a pair of hardware store 3/8” cold shuts.

Shane Brown wrote:

Don’t let perfect become the enemy of the good.

A M E N !

Shane Brown wrote:

Don’t let perfect become the enemy of the good.

What would happen if I put the roof on your house just good enough? What would happen if I replace the crankshaft in your car just good enough? What would happen if I assembled your cam when I worked at Metolius just good enough? Etc. etc. etc. My apologies sir but when it comes to Yosemite National Park, Joshua tree national Park,  good is not good enough. When me and potter started drilling bolts on the rostrum I chalked it up as it was good enough because Dean said it was. Now go look at the rostrum. (thanks Ryan Jenkins and bolt busters) when we started drilling bolts at Taft point, Dean said it was good enough, Go look at it now.  Now the one that hurts the most. Not sure if any of you here have been to the lost arrows spire lately or to the top of Yosemite Falls but good God look what good enough has done there.   Good enough mayfly at Owens river gorge, Or possibly even lovers leap but Absolutely no way period is good enough acceptable in our national and state parks. Good enough is why Smith Rock is one of the worst bolted crags around. Again get it together Lady and gentlemen we are better than that. I respect the gentleman that started this post to have some positive photos and get away of the negative bitching but holy shit balls Batman, The climbing communities Ethics, morals, and standards, Are all talk.  Are crags show who we are. 

Shawn,
Serious question, would you consider replacing all of your (older style) fixe glue in anchors if their were confirmed independent testing data of the weld breaking at or below 15kn, we'll below the manufacturer rating. BTW your work looks great.

DrRockso wrote:

Shawn,
Serious question, would you consider replacing all of your (older style) fixe glue in anchors if their were confirmed independent testing data of the weld breaking at or below 15kn, we'll below the manufacturer rating. BTW your work looks great.

Good day sir. All of the fix hardware glue ins  that I’ve replaced I have re-welded. I complained to Kevin a couple years ago about the inconsistency of the welds. They appeared  to me to be done on a machine Buy a robot. Kevin informed me they were done by hand.  These were the bolts that had pressed grooves in them. Then they came out with the new style with machine grooves with much better welds. I have not used the bolts in this photo yet nor have I inspected the welds. I spoke with Kevin yesterday in regards to making a new updated how to video in regards to bolting and removing bolts. I will look into this new bolt,I will place it I will break it and I will tell you what I think. 

DrRockso wrote:

Shawn,
Serious question, would you consider replacing all of your (older style) fixe glue in anchors if their were confirmed independent testing data of the weld breaking at or below 15kn, we'll below the manufacturer rating. BTW your work looks great.

My apologies sir I just found a way to zoom in on your photo. Look closely at the con Caveness to the weld. When you take material A and material B and weld it together you want to create material C. you want to liquefy material A to B so much so that it becomes material C. Otherwise you’re just creating a Band-Aid or a bridge so to speak from material a to material B. The Band-Aid if you will should be convexed not concave. The photo here shows that they’re very concaved. So much so it’s kind of like a half pipe skate ramp with sharp lips up at the coping. This is absolutely unacceptable and I will mention this to Kevin again. Thanks for pointing this out and showing me this photo. I have also in the past put it out there that I would be glad to take anybody’s bolts and re-weld them and heat treat them for them so they can feel safer free of charge. That still stands today