Anyone know why bolts were added to Rexrodes Inn (a very protectable crack for even beginner leads) and to places that already had bolts like dragons Arete at woodson? They seem to be popping up everywhere. anyone got any info?
Near the end of the crack of Rexrodes inn—it looks like they were put in place for a top rope of the crack—2s and 3s protect it very safely.
Dragons arete got a new bolt above where you used to climb to set up the top rope—the logical thing here would have been to put in links on the existing bolts, not add a new bolt. there are others
Can you post pictures? Maybe like you said someone placed them there to establish a TR on the route same with Dragon Arete, you need at least 2 points of failure for a top rope adding a link to the pre-existing bolt won't do much.
Cesar, are you talking about the route Rexrodes Inn? Only thing that comes to mind is that it can be a pain to set up a TR for that route, but wouldn’t justify bolts, IMO.
Ive felt like the anchors on Cat Crack were conspicuously convenient, but they’ve been there at least a year.
Peoples immunity have been lower due to stay at home and the corona virus so bolts were put in under orders from governor newsom for your own protection.
Cesar...there is ALWAYS someone at Mt. Woodson. Someone saw or heard the drills at play. The problem is that it's easier to complain about the bolts online then to step up. "SEE SOMETHING, SAY SOMETHING." Pay me small stipend for gas and we'll pull and patch the offending soy boy stoner bolts.
Rexrodes Inn Dragons Arete Cat Crack Bread Loaf American Gypsy
If ur gonna add bolts at least do it right to facilitate a proper top rope.... So many TR bolts there have you scratching your head.
Mysterious bolts at woodson seem to come and go. Someone bolted some stupid slab right off the road next to hamburger crack, new anchor bolts popped up on an aid seam as you pass elsa's, my personal favorite was the bolt added to the top of yoav's (it was chopped)..... Bolts at woodson come and go, there are some real idiots out there, I won't say any names.... but if you head over to south woodson, there is some real shit. Wouldn't surprise me if it was the same ding dongs bolting the shit out of every squeeze job at el cajon, the others by tahquitz, and my god have you seen how fucking contrived and grid bolted eagle peak is?
Route developers in SD - GET YOUR SHIT TOGETHER.
Cesar Cardenas wrote: If anyone knows who is doing the bolting, maybe just talk to them and fill them in on the ethics of the area. It doesn't have to be such a negative confrontation, it really should just be a learning moment. I totally agree with the see something say something approach.I only ask because my thought is that we should rise to the challenge presented to us by these formations, not drill everywhere we can to make things easier physically or mentally.
Cesar - the old local guard doesn't really give a shit about ethics for themselves, but will impose traditional ethics on others. They know who they are.... Hopefully in another 10-15 years that power drill will be to heavy to keep adding bolts...
J Sundstrom wrote: Probably the same folks who added a single, poorly placed bolt to the top of American Gypsy where there is a perfect horizontal crack for gear. :/
LOL. I remember seeing that sucker and having the same thoughts.
So, is the conclusion that these superfluous bolts are being added so people don't have to hike up gear? None of them seem to be based on safety, that's for sure.
Also, is it just your frail ego that is bothered by these bolts? When you climb the obvious crack and can easily avoid this bolt you are so disgusted by, are you just as equally tempted to clip it?
Why not just climb as you think the route should be climbed, shrug your shoulders and move on?
Joe Frazer wrote: So, is the conclusion that these superfluous bolts are being added so people don't have to hike up gear? None of them seem to be based on safety, that's for sure.
Also, is it just your frail ego that is bothered by these bolts? When you climb the obvious crack and can easily avoid this bolt you are so disgusted by, are you just as equally tempted to clip it?
Why not just climb as you think the route should be climbed, shrug your shoulders and move on?
That argument makes too much sense but nobody likes it.
Its called gate keeping and climbing has it in spades. If you disagree you'll hear such winning phrases like "where have all the men gone/no pussies in climbing" from soft middle class americans.
I do the same when I'm out hiking and there's garbage left on the trail. I leave the trash, shrug my shoulder and keep hiking.
Who am I to suggest people don't litter? Some people enjoy throwing trash on the trail, why should they stop? I can just hike the trail and ignore it.
Fair assessment but highly speculative. No one thoughtfully takes the time to place litter on your trail, whether it be right next to a trashcan or not. Whereas, someone took the time to think about it and then put in the funds and effort to place these bolts, whether you agree with the placement or not.
New tangent, is this a new age of climbing where routes become like video game difficulties so everyone can enjoy and reach the top of that mega classic proj. brah, easy: clip bolts medium: mixed, place gear of your choosing hard, skip bolts?
Chalk everywhere, shoe grease, breaking up rock to clean routes and destroying the natural habitat of wildlife are all more damaging than a rod of stainless steel. You could easily forgo to do all the mentioned things, but I'm sure its too hard.
Quit hiding behind environmentalism. If you are against bolts, that's fine really, just be honest about your mentality. You simply don't like "lazy" or "mentally weak" people, which to be honest I don't either but I'm not going to pretend that some bolt is harming my life or the rock.
It’s all about aesthetics. Woodson has some of the best bouldering in California on beautiful rock formations. Keep the hardware to a minimum while still being safe. Respect other people’s routes that are above your pay grade.
Is this the Woodson TR partners thread? Mostly looking to TR on bolts, so I figured here would be good. Mods move please if I’m posting in the wrong spot.
Andrew Hurst wrote: Is this the Woodson TR partners thread? Mostly looking to TR on bolts, so I figured here would be good. Mods move please if I’m posting in the wrong spot.
No, this is the Days of our Lives substitute for those of us unemployed or working from home. Much more juicy and entertaining. Can you believe it's real people and not scripted? Please be a responsible climber and stay at home. If you must climb, only do so with someone in your household. But, thank you for the bump.