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Bolts at woodson

Original Post
Cesar Cardenas · · San Diego, CA · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 30

Anyone know why bolts were added to Rexrodes Inn (a very protectable crack for even beginner leads) and to places that already had bolts like dragons Arete at woodson? They seem to be popping up everywhere.
anyone got any info?

Travis Bieber · · Fort Collins · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,868

Bolt the world bro.

Cesar Cardenas · · San Diego, CA · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 30
Drew Alldredge wrote: Where specifically?

Near the end of the crack of Rexrodes inn—it looks like they were put in place for a top rope of the crack—2s and 3s protect it very safely. 

Dragons arete got a new bolt above where you used to climb to set up the top rope—the logical thing here would have been to put in links on the existing bolts, not add a new bolt. there are others 
Travis Bieber · · Fort Collins · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,868

Can you post pictures?  Maybe like you said someone placed them there to establish a TR on the route same with Dragon Arete, you need at least 2 points of failure for a top rope adding a link to the pre-existing bolt won't do much.

B Donovan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 0

Cesar, are you talking about the route Rexrodes Inn? Only thing that comes to mind is that it can be a pain to set up a TR for that route, but wouldn’t justify bolts, IMO.

Ive felt like the anchors on Cat Crack were conspicuously convenient, but they’ve been there at least a year.

Bridget Tye · · San Diego, CA · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 0

Come on guys I thought we call agreed sport climbing was in mission gorge!

expat exodus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

 
Peoples  immunity  have been lower due to stay at home and the corona virus so  bolts were put in under orders from governor newsom  for your own protection.

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 19,756

Cesar...there is ALWAYS someone at Mt. Woodson. Someone saw or heard the drills at play. The problem is that it's easier to complain about the bolts online then to step up.                                         "SEE SOMETHING, SAY SOMETHING."
Pay me small stipend for gas and we'll pull and patch the offending soy boy stoner bolts.

Rexrodes Inn
Dragons Arete
Cat Crack
Bread Loaf
American Gypsy

Gumby boy king · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 547

If ur gonna add bolts at least do it right to facilitate a proper top rope.... So many TR bolts there have you scratching your head.

Mysterious bolts at woodson seem to come and go. Someone bolted some stupid slab right off the road next to hamburger crack, new anchor bolts popped up on an aid seam as you pass elsa's, my personal favorite was the bolt added to the top of yoav's (it was chopped)..... Bolts at woodson come and go, there are some real idiots out there, I won't say any names.... but if you head over to south woodson, there is some real shit. Wouldn't surprise me if it was the same ding dongs bolting the shit out of every squeeze job at el cajon, the others by tahquitz, and my god have you seen how fucking contrived and grid bolted eagle peak is?

Route developers in SD - GET YOUR SHIT TOGETHER.

Cesar Cardenas wrote:
If anyone knows who is doing the bolting, maybe just talk to them and fill them in on the ethics of the area. It doesn't have to be such a negative confrontation, it really should just be a learning moment. I totally agree with the see something say something approach.I only ask because my thought is that we should rise to the challenge presented to us by these formations, not drill everywhere we can to make things easier physically or mentally.

Cesar - the old local guard doesn't really give a shit about ethics for themselves, but will impose traditional ethics on others. They know who they are.... Hopefully in another 10-15 years that power drill will be to heavy to keep adding bolts...

J Sundstrom · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 240

Probably the same folks who added a single, poorly placed bolt to the top of American Gypsy where there is a perfect horizontal crack for gear. :/

Gumby boy king · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 547
J Sundstrom wrote: Probably the same folks who added a single, poorly placed bolt to the top of American Gypsy where there is a perfect horizontal crack for gear. :/

LOL. I remember seeing that sucker and having the same thoughts.


Great climb though!

Hunky Tony · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 12

David Katz · · Calabasas, CA · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 1,186

Major destruction at Malibu Creek the past few years. I am convinced some people just love to add bolts to rock. Lots of Ego at play

Gumby boy king · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 547

I think we need to add a bolt to the start of the cat crack guyz.

Personally think its a little dangerous and heard rumors about someone decking off this thing a week ago.....

Joe Frazer · · San Diego, CA · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 16

So, is the conclusion that these superfluous bolts are being added so people don't have to hike up gear? None of them seem to be based on safety, that's for sure.

Also, is it just your frail ego that is bothered by these bolts? When you climb the obvious crack and can easily avoid this bolt you are so disgusted by, are you just as equally tempted to clip it?  

Why not just climb as you think the route should be climbed, shrug your shoulders and move on?

Yuri Rodea · · Long Beach · Joined May 2018 · Points: 46
Joe Frazer wrote: So, is the conclusion that these superfluous bolts are being added so people don't have to hike up gear? None of them seem to be based on safety, that's for sure.

Also, is it just your frail ego that is bothered by these bolts? When you climb the obvious crack and can easily avoid this bolt you are so disgusted by, are you just as equally tempted to clip it?  

Why not just climb as you think the route should be climbed, shrug your shoulders and move on?

That argument makes too much sense but nobody likes it.

Its called gate keeping and climbing has it in spades. If you disagree you'll hear such winning phrases like "where have all the men gone/no pussies in climbing" from soft middle class americans.

Joe Frazer · · San Diego, CA · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 16
abandon moderation wrote:

I do the same when I'm out hiking and there's garbage left on the trail. I leave the trash, shrug my shoulder and keep hiking.

Who am I to suggest people don't litter? Some people enjoy throwing trash on the trail, why should they stop? I can just hike the trail and ignore it. 

Fair assessment but highly speculative. No one thoughtfully takes the time to place litter on your trail, whether it be right next to a trashcan or not. Whereas, someone took the time to think about it and then put in the funds and effort to place these bolts, whether you agree with the placement or not.

New tangent, is this a new age of climbing where routes become like video game difficulties so everyone can enjoy and reach the top of that mega classic proj. brah, easy: clip bolts medium: mixed, place gear of your choosing hard, skip bolts? 

Yuri Rodea · · Long Beach · Joined May 2018 · Points: 46

Chalk everywhere, shoe grease, breaking up rock to clean routes and destroying the natural habitat of wildlife are all more damaging than a rod of stainless steel.
You could easily forgo to do all the mentioned things, but I'm sure its too hard.

Quit hiding behind environmentalism. If you are against bolts, that's fine really, just be honest about your mentality. You simply don't like "lazy" or "mentally weak" people, which to be honest I don't either but I'm not going to pretend that some bolt is harming my life or the rock.

David Katz · · Calabasas, CA · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 1,186

It’s all about aesthetics. Woodson has some of the best bouldering in California on beautiful rock formations. Keep the hardware to a minimum while still being safe. Respect other people’s routes that are above your pay grade.

Sprinkle McSparklecams · · Bag End, the shire · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 20

Is this the Woodson TR partners thread? Mostly looking to TR on bolts, so I figured here would be good. Mods move please if I’m posting in the wrong spot. 

Grendles Modor · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0
Andrew Hurst wrote: Is this the Woodson TR partners thread? Mostly looking to TR on bolts, so I figured here would be good. Mods move please if I’m posting in the wrong spot. 

No, this is the Days of our Lives substitute for those of us unemployed or working from home.  Much more juicy and entertaining.  Can you believe it's real people and not scripted?  Please be a responsible climber and stay at home.  If you must climb, only do so with someone in your household.  But, thank you for the bump.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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