Pull ups vs grade climbed?

To Andrew Krajnik,

The Lattice training included many different exercises dependent on what program is purchased. Some "finger strength tests" that Lattice gave me included the following:
- Max Hang for 7 seconds 10mm edge. ***
- Max Hang for 7 seconds 20 mm edge. ***
- Maximum hang time, 7 seconds on, 3 seconds rest, 20mm edge. ***
- Max hang time for 7 seconds 10mm edge. 60% of Max weight
- Max Hang 7 seconds 20 mm edge. 80% of Max weight
- Max hang time for 7 seconds 10mm edge. 60% of Max weight
- Max Hang 7 seconds 20 mm edge. 80% of Max weight

*** = Bodyweight + how much extra? This is your 'max weight'

They had dozens of other tests, too.

When discussing finger strength, and testing, there are multiple factors why each test is done: Maximum muscle/tendon recruitment, anaerobic capacity, and varying levels of output.

Lattice had a very clear, quantifiable program, which told me what my weaknesses were compared to large population sizes of folks climbing the same grades. Highly recommended. 

Wayne Curr wrote:
White privilage at its worst.

So you'd put up with racist comments for good punkin pie, but calling out white privilege is divisive and racist? Oh wait, you're that guy who got all outraged/conspiracy theory crazy because social distancing is actually working in your town and you haven't personally seen enough cases to convince you. Makes scents.

Bro I can give you her recipe if you're that bent out of shape.

I’m 6’1”, 190lb, can do 5 proper pull ups. On a good day I can send 11a sport, 10a trad. I know by climbing standards I’m fat and should drop at least 15lb so I could send harder.

"Yoga" = epitomy of cultural appropriation by pivileged white folk. Nameste.

Yoga as we know it was invented by Indra Devi, nee Eugenie Peterson.

Wayne Curr wrote: "Yoga" = epitomy of cultural appropriation by pivileged white folk. Nameste.

Oh look, its Whiny Wayne again. What a relief! Thought we lost you!

So....back to pull ups....

What is a proper pull up?  

Jon Welch wrote: So....back to pull ups....

What is a proper pull up?  

Not a CrossFit pull up with a few second eccentric

A proper pull-up is, hands directly over the shoulders, palm of hands facing forward, arms in full droop, pulling straight up, NO movement of legs, any bending of the knees and you are disqualified, chest must touch pull-up bar. 

Ooo, name calling! Fun.

I've never once done a pullup on a climb, unless it was on the crux of a friend's project to see if I could keep myself from laughing myself off the rest of the route. If you think pullups translate to climbing you are climbing wrong.

Jon Welch wrote: So....back to pull ups....

What is a proper pull up?  

I’m sure definitions vary. I consider “proper pull-up” to be:

-palms out
-hands shoulder width apart 
-no kipping
-starting from a dead hang, pulling slowly to chin above the bar, and then lowering slowly to full dead hang. 

But I’m not talking glacial-slow. Count of 3 up/count of 3 down is slow enough to be considered slow and controlled in my book. 

It's not a chin up it's a pull up. I laid out the rules as simply as I could.
In competition you can't go slowly you have a time limit.
A pull-up is a pull-up anything else is something other than a pull-up.
If you are going for a record they chalk the pull-up bar & you have to have a chalk line on you chest from hitting the bar!
But let me say that climbing is all about your feet & legs.

Mark Frumkin wrote: A proper pull-up is,...NO movement of legs, ... 

How can you pull up without your legs moving with you?

And why does the width of your hands matter?

Lena chita wrote:

I’m sure definitions vary. I consider “proper pull-up” to be:

-palms out
-hands shoulder width apart 
-no kipping
-starting from a dead hang, pulling slowly to chin above the bar, and then lowering slowly to full dead hang. 

But I’m not talking glacial-slow. Count of 3 up/count of 3 down is slow enough to be considered slow and controlled in my book. 

Doesn’t matter Re seconds on the concentric As long as you’re not Kipping.  The eccentric is where 99.99% of people mess it up.  Biggest benefit comes from the eccentric movement.  

Bill Czajkowski wrote:

How can you pull up without your legs moving with you?

And why does the width of your hands matter?

It all sounds like a fetish thing, I don’t think I want to know.

It sounds a little more like no thinking.
It be like all about foot placement & leg strength.
Technique 

Jcburgart wrote: To Andrew Krajnik,

The Lattice training included many different exercises dependent on what program is purchased. Some "finger strength tests" that Lattice gave me included the following:
- Max Hang for 7 seconds 10mm edge. ***
- Max Hang for 7 seconds 20 mm edge. ***
- Maximum hang time, 7 seconds on, 3 seconds rest, 20mm edge. ***
- Max hang time for 7 seconds 10mm edge. 60% of Max weight
- Max Hang 7 seconds 20 mm edge. 80% of Max weight
- Max hang time for 7 seconds 10mm edge. 60% of Max weight
- Max Hang 7 seconds 20 mm edge. 80% of Max weight

*** = Bodyweight + how much extra? This is your 'max weight'

They had dozens of other tests, too.

When discussing finger strength, and testing, there are multiple factors why each test is done: Maximum muscle/tendon recruitment, anaerobic capacity, and varying levels of output.

Lattice had a very clear, quantifiable program, which told me what my weaknesses were compared to large population sizes of folks climbing the same grades. Highly recommended. 

Thanks for the additoinal detail. I know a few people that have done lattice training, but never got details on all the tests they do.

Colonel Mustard wrote:

It all sounds like a fetish thing, I don’t think I want to know.

I would like to know

Mark Frumkin wrote:
But let me say that climbing is all about your feet & legs.

Hmm . .  I suppose it's just a coincidence that a surprisingly large number of 5.14 and 15 climbers can do one-arm pullups on edges, or one-finger pullups, and stuff like that.

(I do not dispute that having good technique plus at least reasonable strength will get most of us where we want to go)