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Please stop adding bolts to existing routes!

Original Post
cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 815

I found out yesterday that someone added a bolt to the start of Itchy Scratchy. Went up today and sure enough there’s a stud within arms reach of the C3 placement that protects the 5.6 climbing to the piton.
Seriously?
So!


A. Don’t add bolts to existing routes. If you want to, contact the FA.
B. It’s 5.6 and there’s gear.
C. If you can’t climb this bit because you lack the skill, confidence or gear go away and come back when you do.
Don’t add f*^king bolts!
Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52

Oh no, its another bolting thread...

How much for the C3?

Jared Willis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

Some people just wanna watch the world burn.

Chad Namolik · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 2,905

More dumb-down for the weak. Seems to be a lot of that going around lately. Hope it doesn’t get super trendy. All routes will have a bolt every 3 feet pretty soon, that won’t be fun climbing. 

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 815

GK $100? 

Bill Schick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0

So from the description, I think I gather that if this tiny piece of aid climbing gear fails, the leader hits the ground with no other possible backup?  

Please post video of you testing this piece with a fall from the piton.  TIA.

a beach · · northeast · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 513

just out of curiosity, how high are you off the ground here? you don't have a harness on in your photo, and there are trees in the background.

Keith Wood · · Elko, NV · Joined May 2019 · Points: 480

At this rate, future discussions of protection on a route will have to include something like this:

This route has 12 bolts. 6 Were original. 6 were added. Choose your preferred experience...
X - 2 draws
R - 4 draws
PG-13 - 6 draws
Chicken - 12 draws
Chicken shit - 12 draws plus a drill for backup

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 815

Is a 6KN cam considered “tiny aid” these days?
Same as a #5 stopper, which also works, and I don’t think too many people think that’s an aid piece.
I drove the pin in 2016 and it’s really good.

It’s probably 8’ of 5.2 to the cam. Then another 6’ to the first fixed gear. 
No harness because it’s barely rock climbing. The cam is optional and the pin was the first piece on the FA. I later dig out the crack rather than place a bolt. Many people skip the cam and go to the pin. 
If you’re maxed out getting to the first fixed piece there is good gear! 
Besides....don’t add bolts. 
Boissal . · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,541

You said there's a stud, was the hanger already gone when you got to it? 

Amanda Smith · · Fayetteville, WV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 878

How many 5.6 climbers own C3s?  :D

Dan Cooksey · · Pink Ford Thunderbird · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 365
SmithVentures wrote: How many 5.6 climbers own C3s?  :D

Everyone shopping on MP.  

they can’t keep their hand off em.
I climb 5.6 and would like to know if that C3 is for sale?
Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52
cdec wrote: GK $100? 

I'll pass.

Tiny Cam, you're up

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 815

Boissal,
The hanger was gone and the threads banged up. I was hoping, but not hopeful, that the hole had enough room to simply bury it and patch.
It did not. I will pull it soon.

Boissal . · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,541
cdec wrote: Boissal,
The hanger was gone and the threads banged up. I was hoping, but not hopeful, that the hole had enough room to simply bury it and patch.
It did not. I will pull it soon.

At least you're not alone in thinking the bolt should have never gone in, that's reassuring... Patching studs sucks if they're not drilled super deep, I'm not surprised whoever decided to add that bolt didn't have removal and patching in mind.

a beach · · northeast · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 513

Yeah that’s lame. Bummer, sorry someone added a bolt to your route. I’d be really pissed if bolts were added to any of my climbs.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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