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Sasha Digiulians Trilogy Free Stream 5/2

Fehim Hasecic · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 215
Ryan Sheridan wrote: I was fortunate enough to support Sasha as she climbed three 5.14 bigwalls in the Canadian Rockies. In addition to completing all the climbs in one summer, she also did each route "in a day" on the final push. Due to Covid-19 this film is no longer touring the country with the Banff Film Tour, but instead will premier online at Outsidetv (one day only) tomorrow (5/2) 9pm EST  . Dont miss this great story!
Photo by: Priscilla Mewborne while shooting on Yamnuska

https://www.facebook.com/sashadigiulian/videos/515290362471658/

What does “in a day” mean? Why apostrophes?

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730

looked like a fun trip. 

Ryan Sheridan · · Yosemite Village, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 35
Fehim Hasecic wrote:

What does “in a day” mean? Why apostrophes?

She climbed the routes multiple times over the course of many weeks . The crux pitches were difficult and required rehearsal.  Then when she felt ready, she climbed each route in a day without any falls . 

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730
Ryan Sheridan wrote:

She climbed the routes multiple times over the course of many weeks . The crux pitches were difficult and required rehearsal.  Then when she felt ready, she climbed each route in a day without any falls . 

i’m not here to bag on her but didn’t she say doing Louis alone was a 15 hour day?

Garry Reiss · · Guelph, ON · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 6
petzl logic wrote:

i’m not here to bag on her but didn’t she say doing Louis alone was a 15 hour day?

Yes she did. 

I liked the film, particularly the Mount Louis part.

rock freak · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0
Ryan Sheridan wrote:

If you have beef with the way she climbed something in the past, you should probably just let it go. That’s a whole lot of hate to carry around . 

It's not about "hate".  She did that route on the Eiger in a certain style, and we are free to either criticize that style or call it rad.  With the priveleges of a career as a professional climber come the drawbacks of having your track record wide open.  Although I think Sasha Digulian gets a disproportionate amount of abuse, her claims were slightly disingenuous and many people object to her ethics.  I personally would rather have heard a story about her rappelling off tat into the abyss below Eiger than the Red Bull copter giving her a free ride.  When you create media like this, you are opening yourself and the athlete to both praise and criticism.  To survive in this industry, just ignore the stuff you don't like.  

It's not just Sasha that gets called out either.  When Todd Skinner and Paul Piana freed the Salathe, they were called hangdoggers.  They were criticized for team free climbing.  Since their ascent, consensus shifted, and while team free climbing has largely gone away, their legacy remains.  Maybe in 20 years helicoptering off the Eiger will be a widely embraced climbing ethic.  Until then, spray away.

Pros do fake shit all the time.  The industry backs them up because their media makes money.  I think it's great that people would question this.  

This was truly a super human achievement

This is an achievement.  But also, this type of achievement is in her job description.  She found some good, hard routes.  She worked on them.  She did them.  It is her job to do things like this and make videos about them.  She is doing her job well.  

Calling this super human or acting like she is above criticism is ridiculous.  Certainly this is a great achievement, but the folks on this forum should be permitted to criticize her, and every other pro, all they want.  

Is it slander if it's factually true?  

Prilla Prilla · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 0

You created an account today just to post this?

rock freak wrote: It's not about "hate".   

When you go around looking for any media or mention of a person to rant about a totally unrelated event that shows internalized anger. This thread has nothing to do with the Eiger and if you watched the video you would see she climbed in good style .


This is an achievement.  But also, this type of achievement is in her job description.  She found some good, hard routes.  She worked on them.  She did them.  It is her job to do things like this and make videos about them.  She is doing her job well.  

Yes, and alot of people enjoy watching these videos. Which is why it was posted and why she has a job

Calling this super human or acting like she is above criticism is ridiculous.  

She is climbing at the upper limit of human achievement. Sorry but sending three 5.14 bigwalls in a short summer is a huge achievement ,I would also call it super human. No one is saying you cant have critical opinions , but what is being mentioned above is off topic , irrelevant and immature personal attacks. 


rock freak · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0
Priscilla Mewb wrote:
You created an account today just to post this?

Yes.

irrelevant and immature personal attacks.

If you think the above argument is immature then don't engage with it.  I believe I didn't attack her, in fact I sympathize with her.  She gets a plethora of online abuse for no good reason.  Joe Kinder incident case and point.  

On the other hand, if you want to address the professionalism of a professional, or how they do their job, I think that is not an attack. She will go down in history as a groundbreaking climber.  Why not discuss a more nuanced point of view?  There's asterisks on the resume of every pro and non pro out there.  

Why did I post about something like this?  Red Bull and the outdoor industry are changing and proliferating our sport more and more.   If we want to talk shop about ethics or other pointless niche stuff, and that changes the way we engage with the hype/big dollars changing the sport, I think that's a positive thing.  

Ryan made a good film, Sasha is a good climber, and climbing is always going to have weirdos who discuss stuff like this.

Danny Poceta · · Canmore · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 98

No disrespect to SD, its awesome she did all these routes and the footage is rad. But if you want to be impressed.... look up Nathan Hadley, that dude rolled up here, and in like a month sent all three of these routes AND the Path in great style, called em all soft, and peaced out quietly. Thats the way to do it baby... Superhuman is a little much maybe.

Bill Schick · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 0
rock freak wrote:

She gets a plethora of online abuse for no good reason. 

Lol - rolling up from Boulder in a Land Rover at 108 mph for her summer vacation talking about how tough her life is.  Her training beta interview turned me off - she's never worked a day at a real job in her life, and came across to me as smug and entitled about it, but also knew just what to say to keep it all going.  The Kinder thing - her own team mate - the matter should never have seen the light of day - take it to HR, not fucking Instagram - dude's career is now over while she's obviously sitting on enough family money to sponsor her own team.  Her rep around town here is of all the same and more.  Is there really confusion out there about how there might exist some climbers who don't connect with her?  Live by the sword...

Phil Lauffen · · Innsbruck, AT · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 3,113
rock freak wrote: I personally would rather have heard a story about her rappelling off tat into the abyss below Eiger than the Red Bull copter giving her a free ride. 

What are you saying? As an 'extreme' athlete are these people required to put their lives at risk in order to satiate your demands? Should high-end climbing in the mountains be some kind of thunderdome? It already is.

Everytime one of these athletes, pressured to perform for the filthy masses, are put into a life-threatening situation, I'd rather that they call a helicopter and return to their loved ones safely.

Instead we have idiots on the internet saying that some artificial standard has not been met... and with enough pressure maybe next time SD (et al) won't call a helicopter. How is that better?

Halbert · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 797
  • Phil Lauffen wrote

Instead we have idiots on the internet saying that some artificial standard has not been met... and with enough pressure maybe next time SD (et al) won't call a helicopter. How is that better?

Alpine ascents come with certain standards. The descent off a route is considered an integral part of any alpine style route. Many alpine climbers would find it hard to stomach if you claim an ascent while having to be 'rescued' off the top of a route. Climbing the Eiger is not the same as climbing a multipitch sport route, much of the aura of the Eiger comes from the objective risks you're facing while making an ascent. Also while long, the descent via Eigerjöch to Monchsjöch shouldn't be that hard considering they just did a route on the North Face.

Blue Collar Climbing · · Gear Protected Lowball · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 0

It was a climbing movie with a high percentage of quality climbing footage, and for that I appreciate it. And it was free.

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730
Garry R wrote:

Yes she did. 

I liked the film, particularly the Mount Louis part.

so she did the three in three days. i misunderstood after the explanation. that’s a pretty good week!

Blue Collar Climbing · · Gear Protected Lowball · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 0
petzl logic wrote:

so she did the three in three days. i misunderstood after the explanation. that’s a pretty good week!

If I followed it correctly, she did each route individually in a day, but I don't think they were consecutive days? It looked like they were spaced out over the course of a few weeks/months (as there was an injury/recovery involved at one point).

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730

if that’s it why even bother with the ‘in a day’ stuff. the climbs don’t require a bivy, so why wouldn’t proper ascents go in a day? this is turning into some strange marketing. 

Brett Millard · · Kelowna, BC · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 10

Any way to watch the film if we missed it last night?

Brandt Allen · · Joshua Tree, Cal · Joined Jan 2004 · Points: 220

Gotta go with what Helen said. Very impressed with the whole effort made to tick those routes.

John RB · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 194
Bill Schick wrote:

She plays the cute entitled female card even better - not to the degree of someone like Sierra Blair-Coyle, but enough that I get the hate.  That said, the climbs look pretty awesome - I'll probably watch - but expecting some cringe to go with it.

I cringed just once when she talked about how hard it was to cross the border north into Canada.  Apparently she had to explain what "professional rock climber" was, have them google her, and then show them her Red Bull had to prove she was a professional climber.  Urghhh...

Other than this, she was gracious in the film, admitted he was exhausted and worked, giving heaps of credit to her support crew (including a lot of Banff locals), and putting in really solid efforts on alpine 5.14.

She may not be as strong as Margo Hayes or Angie Eiter, but she's still one of the top women in the world.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669
Halbert wrote:

Alpine ascents come with certain standards. The descent off a route is considered an integral part of any alpine style route. Many alpine climbers would find it hard to stomach if you claim an ascent while having to be 'rescued' off the top of a route. 

Man I guess - like I agree with you. 

But no one seems to give a hoot about when Jeff Lowe was rescued off the Eiger after doing his visionary climb. It became part of the mythos of the man!


No one cares if you take the téléphérique to/from your alpine objective in Chamonix. I think the, "descent being part of the climb" is shaky ground for anything except pure alpine objectives. But again, this is just navel gazing, which... that's fine: I guess this is what these forums are for!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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