Best Yosemite climbs under 3 pitches and 5.7 or under.

My family and our best friends are traveling to Yosemite this fall. Both families will have newborns (baby sat nearby) and mamas getting back into climbing shape.

Sunnyside Bench and Swan Slab Gulley fit the bill.

The Grack is outstanding:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105862623/the-grack-center

James Dean Anderson wrote: The Grack is outstanding:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105862623/the-grack-center

How busy do you think it would be during fall? Thank you!

Michael Tilden wrote:

How busy do you think it would be during fall? Thank you!

The Grack is extremely popular amongst new climbers.  Either go early in the morning or around twilight.

Also, keep in mind that rock fall potential at the Apron is high.  I would urge you not to bring your baby, at least not without body armor.

Chris Cragsocks wrote:

The Grack is extremely popular amongst new climbers.  Either go early in the morning or around twilight.

Also, keep in mind that rock fall potential at the Apron is high.  I would urge you not to bring your baby, at least not without body armor.

Sure thing, they will be babysat nearby.

+1 for the Grack. Munginella 5.6 @ Five Open Books. I remember a few 5.7 routes at Knob Hill being entertaining. If your feeling frisky, head down to Pat and Jack and get on Nurdle or Golden Needle both 5.8's or Ejesta on Reeds.

sounds right up your alley. Church bowl is right before the Awahnee/Majestic on the left/north side of the valley. There's tables and benches closeby for the moms and little minions to hangout at or rest at.  There's some super fun routes close to the road and in the shade. Bishops terrace is a super fun 5.8. 2 ropes to rap wouldn't be a bad idea if you get on BT to the top. Church bowl tree is another fun one you can lead/TR. Theres also Ranger rock/Manure pile buttress that has some SUPER fun classics. Nutcracker and After six are both super fun. 

All depends on how quick you are at climbing for multi. Swan slab and five open books are your best bets. Glacier point rockfall is real. For cragging, try ToeJo on lower cathedral, sunnyside bench (which will be a bigger shitshow than a diaper blowout), Royal arches base routes, sentinel wall, or, if you are okay with a little warmth, Reed's pinnacle is amazing cragging with a shady base and pat and jack's is also shady. 

Meh, at those grades Tuolumne will be far better (and less hot unless really late in Oct/early Nov.

John Clark wrote: All depends on how quick you are at climbing for multi. Swan slab and five open books are your best bets. Glacier point rockfall is real. For cragging, try ToeJo on lower cathedral, sunnyside bench (which will be a bigger shitshow than a diaper blowout), Royal arches base routes, sentinel wall, or, if you are okay with a little warmth, Reed's pinnacle is amazing cragging with a shady base and pat and jack's is also shady. 

Can you elaborate on the rockfall at Glacier Point? Hoping to try Grack next time I'm in the valley but have heard multiple people mention rockfall. Do you avoid completely? 

Brooks K wrote:

Can you elaborate on the rockfall at Glacier Point? Hoping to try Grack next time I'm in the valley but have heard multiple people mention rockfall. Do you avoid completely? 

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13200004300/Falling-Rock-California-Yosemite-Valley-Glacier-Point-Apron

Brooks K wrote:

Can you elaborate on the rockfall at Glacier Point? Hoping to try Grack next time I'm in the valley but have heard multiple people mention rockfall. Do you avoid completely? 

that link answers it, but here is my own two anecdotal cents. I didn't take it seriously until I made a couple trips up to Jericho wall along Glacier point apron and saw rockfall twice in a month. I still go there, but just know you are taking on marginally more objective risk.

Manure Pile has a great base for the kids. After Six and After 7 are both good, bold for the grade. Nutcracker is world class, 5 pitches, a bit of 5.9 and I think you can avoid it and keep it to a moderate 5.8. Belays are are chill and there are options on the Pile for shorter climbs, retreats, walkoffs and the like. I'm not as fanatical about the Grack as some here, and I don't recall the approach being as straight forward or kid friendly as Manure Pile.

You have to take a shuttle (best) or drive (boo) to El Cap Meadows to go to Manure, so it's a bit further, though well worth it and not actually that far, just not on the main loop. Church Bowl is also super chill, flat and easy approaches, and great single pitch of various grades. Further east from Swan Slab is an area with Penelope's Problem and Jam Crack. I think they are both 5.9, but have moderate variations to the sides of them, and the areas are flat and kid friendly. Jam crack has a 5.8 to the left, a wider handcrack, and Penelope's has a 5.7 to the right, and you can set up a TR on Penelope's. Check the guide for things close to Jamcrack

While you didn't ask, let me tell you that once we committed to using the shuttle exclusively, life was so much easier. We parked in an auxiliary lot off behind Curry Village and took all the food out and into a bear box. Claim the box and use it as your kitchen. That parking lot (at the time) saw little use, we pulled out chairs from the car and it became a kitchen point. We camped in Camp 4 and climbed all over, and just set up a remote base camp. The shuttles are frequent, easy and go everywhere you want to go. In a car, you'll battle parking, one way loops, you will inevitably leave food or something a bear would want and the rangers will find it, if a bear doesn't, and you'll have a sense of place. Even if you get a regular camp site and bear box and whatnot, the shuttle is def the way to go. 

Michael Tilden wrote:

Sure thing, they will be babysat nearby.

It's still not clear from your phrasing if the babies will be at the climbing areas but away from the base, or if they will be back at camp/hotel. The reason it makes a difference is that areas like Pat & Jack have a 3 minute approach which is clean at the base but has rampant poison oak on the approach, whereas something like Church Bowl is a family picnic area for the approach.  Five and Dime has a 5 minute approach but "nearby" is the busy hot road and the base is approached by rattlesnake containing talus.  You've been to the Valley so you'll remember these aspects.

Anyway, the answer to your question is, wait until Clint Cummins chimes in and whatever he says is right.

James Dean Anderson wrote: The Grack is outstanding:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105862623/the-grack-center

The approach for the Grack does not fit the stipulations of the OP's request. I doubt bringing small babies up and through the forest trail and then over and through the scree is going to be worthwhile considering once you get to the base you basically take a number and wait in line for hours while Gary Gym Climber tries to figure out how to place gear every 2' because he's afraid of a bit of 5.0 friction. 

• Swan Slabs is tied with Church Bowl for ease of approach and easy parking with single climbs are going to be Swan Slabs BUT in the fall this area can be brutally hot. 
• Church Bowl will be good choice with flat areas and shade on the first pitch of most climbs, many moderate to easy climbs, and bathrooms 30 seconds away should that be of assistance with the babies.
• Sunnyside area is nice with an asphalt path for strollers (until the final short section through the forest) and shaded but lacks very many easy climbs for "mamas getting back into shape"
• Pat and Jack will be good though a little hot and more of an approach when considering babies in tow but not too bad. 
• Don't forget Generator Crack as well if the mamas want to relive their birthing pains. Higher than 5.7, right on the river (depending upon how much trust one hs with your babysitter), shaded, and a good end-of-day sufferfest

Swan slab #1. Not much parking nearby (at the lodge) so may need to take shuttle. But super short approach. Lot's of easy single pitch A decent 3 pitch. Flat base area great for kids. Not the best climbs but very convenient. Low chance of rockfall or dropped gear. Beginner cental, can get crowded, although everything can.

Church Bowl #2. Can park right there. Super short approach. Not as many easy (<5.7) climbs as swan slab but a few. Bishop's terrace is a classic 2 pitch with some 5.8 moves, can top rope it with 2 ropes tied together (but don't hog it).

Sunnyside Bench #3; Flat 15 minute approach with kids. Jamcrack 1st pitch is good and can hang out nearby, and TR some harder lines off the anchors. Sunnyside Bench Regular Route nice 5.5 3 pitch route.

Manure Pile #4 is an easy 5 minute approach. Great base area for kids. Flat and far enough from any roads. Not known for single pitch stuff, but some classic 5 pitch climbs like After Six.

The rest are not nearly as good with kids and the above 4 will keep you occupied for a long time.

Glacier Point Apron is maybe a 30 minute approach with kids, moderately uphill. The Grack is overrated IMO. Low angle and boring. Munginella is much better at the grade IMO. Maybe it technically doesn't get more rockfall but people have been killed there and they moved the curry tent cabins farther from it and closed down a nice, newer bathroon building. I still climb there.

El Capitan Base also maybe 30 minutes with kids. Flat then moderately uphill. Amazing place to be, especially the flat shelf at the base of pine line, great for picnics, but dangerous drop offs for kids. Really cool to be right up against El Cap to see it's scale up close. Some good moderates on SW side.

5 open books: maybe 20 minutes with kids. Some scrambling near the climbs. Not much base area. Not a great place for kids to hang out. 3 pitch climbs so really this is a better, "you go where it's good for kids, we will go there and meet you in a few hours".

Basically if you are going to be single pitch cragging it makes sense to go to Swan Slab (or Church Bowl, sunnyside bench) with the kids. If you want to do multipitch you are going to be gone (off the ground) at least an hour, I'd say it's not worth it to try to combine that with little kids and they go do something else, or for any longer approaches (glacier point apron, El Cap base, 5 open books) it's not worth dragging little kids up there.

About the only multipitch I'd consider with babies at the base is: Swan Slab Gully. Good base for kids. Easy to be in touch during the first pitch. 

Edit to add clarity.

Glowering wrote:
El Capitan Base also maybe 30 minutes with kids. Flat then moderately uphill. Amazing place to be, especially the flat shelf at the base of pine line, great for picnics, but dangerous drop offs for kids. Really cool to be right up against El Cap to see it's scale up close. Some good moderates on SW side.

El cap base is a bad idea for babies. The parties on freeblast and other various popular wall routes drop gear and rock all the time. 

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

El cap base is a bad idea for babies. The parties on freeblast and other various popular wall routes drop gear and rock all the time. 

Good call out, I was going to add that but forgot. El Cap is 3,000 feet tall and dropped gear or rock can be deadly. Swan Slab is probably the safest place in regards to that because nothing is very tall and you can easily setup camp far enough away from the wall to be safe (it's flat ground from the cliffs to hundreds of feet out). Which reminds me of another good point... setup camp far enough away from the wall. All the time I see people setup camp with kids right near the wall. Setting up camp 50 feet away or more (depends on the height / angle of the rock) get's you out of the drop zone.

What date in the fall?
If September, go to Tuolumne Meadows - the Valley is usually pretty hot.  (As @hillbilly hijinks said).
At lower grades, the Bunny Slopes and Dozier Dome are good.

Clint Cummins wrote: What date in the fall?
If September, go to Tuolumne Meadows - the Valley is usually pretty hot.  (As @hillbilly hijinks said).
At lower grades, the Bunny Slopes and Dozier Dome are good.

End of September beginning of October.