Anybody seen an interesting climbing research paper recently?

I was thinking about doing a sports science mooc, but the only ones I could find were pretty elementary.

So I started wondering if anyone has seen any worthwhile papers lately, maybe check those out instead.

I looked at a couple review and meta-analyses on isometrics a while back, didn’t get much new except that 1) a training load >70% of MVC was needed for tendon stiffening, 2) high intensity and medium intensity loads have similar strength gains given equal total workloads and 3) ‘ballistic’ loading can improve RFD.

If anybody is interested I can hunt up the citations.

If I find any I'll post here. I'd love the citations though!

Have you seen the International Rock Climbing Research Association?  ircra.rocks.  Past congresses have tons of PDFs of papers.

Interested. MVC = Most Valuable Climber? RFD = Radio Frequency Device?

Probably not, huh?

Maximum Voluntary Contraction

Rate of Force Development

I've seen the IRCRA site and read most of the studies that interested me.
It's great resource.

Will get back later with citations for the isometric stuff.

Its time to go to the basement and hang!

Isometric training and long-term adaptations: Effects of muscle length,
intensity, and intent: A systematic review
March 2019Scandinavian Journal of Medicine and Science in Sports 29(4):484-503

Brief Review: Effects of Isometric Strength Training on Strength and Dynamic Performance
April 2019International Journal of Sports Medicine 40(6)

Here's an article that suggests that muscles and tendons adapt to training loads at similar rates.
That is, there is no need to be concerned about gaining muscle strength more quickly than tendon strength and thereby risking injury.

Muscle-tendon adaptation monitoring in elite athletes: Preliminary results from a longitudinal investigation
June 2017
Conference: 35th Conference of the International Society of Biomechanics in SportAt: Cologne, Germany

I think all of these are on Research Gate

How about a finding on what heals 3.5 year old partial tendon tears in washed up 57 year olds?

Which tendon?

supraspinatus  (top of rotator cuff)  partial tear for 3.5 years
 infraspinatus   (front of rotator cuff) partial 3 months ago

Hmm, I don't know the shoulder rehab literature at all.
Fingers I could probably find some info.

I'm guessing either PT or surgery or both is gonna be your answer.

Good luck!

Mark E Dixon wrote: Here's an article that suggests that muscles and tendons adapt to training loads at similar rates.
That is, there is no need to be concerned about gaining muscle strength more quickly than tendon strength and thereby risking injury.

This research isn't new, actually. I was posting this information on rc.noob, like, 12+ years ago. Everyone ignored me of course and kept repeating the same dogma they'd heard forever. 

But, yes, I recall reading studies that did computed tomography scans of cross sectional areas of tendons and showed their remodeling rates/changes didn't lag behind those of muscles'. I don't recall which tendons they studied.

The tendons-gain-strength-faster-than-muscles dogma (?) is always popping up. I did a literature search on the topic - admittedly some time ago - and I didn't find any evidence supporting or refuting it. 

Don't you mean the muscles-gain-strength-faster-than-tendons dogma?   And thanks for using the word dogma. Now I can't stop using it.

Here's an interesting title-

The effects of collagen peptides on muscle damage, inflammation and bone turnover following exercise: a randomized, controlled trial

Haven't read it yet, will update when I get a chance.

Short take from abstract-
helps with DOMS and power.
Don't know the magnitude of the effect from abstract and haven't read the methods to see if the study is legit.

Dana Bartlett wrote: That was what I was implying  - that it's a typical fool's gold nugget of training wisdom, mindlessly repeated.

dey dook er jerbs!