MWV (NH) Old Bolts / clean up area list.

trying to gather a list of bolts that need replacement in the MWV area.

If there are areas that could also use garbage,etc packed out (Mt Willard base is one that comes to mind).

I have a mandatory 14 day lockdown and figured it’s a good time to gather lists for when things clear up.

What does MWV stand for?

I F wrote: What does MWV stand for?

Mt Washington Valley

Friends of the Ledges

has a list.  

Robert Hall wrote: Friends of the Ledges has a list.  

Hey Rob,

Seems they only have 5 bolts listed on there or my phone just doesn’t like the website. 
I know there are some old bolts at Sundown, Saco Crag and a few other low trafficked areas that could be due for an upgrade.

Insert name wrote:

Hey Rob,

Seems they only have 5 bolts listed on there or my phone just doesn’t like the website. 
I know there are some old bolts at Sundown, Saco Crag and a few other low trafficked areas that could be due for an upgrade.

That's because there are only 5 bolts in the state of New Hampshire outside of Rumney.

Matt Z wrote:

That's because there are only 5 bolts in the state of New Hampshire outside of Rumney.

Only 5 sport climbs.

The bolt on P1 of Atlantis is missing its nut and hanger. Also a lot of people think the bolting on Ventilator is pretty bad. Personally I think it would be nice if the drilled pins on Camber P2 were replaced with bolts but I know some people would freak out about it. Also the second or third bolt on A Piece of Cake is sticking out like 2 inches past the nut. Not a huge deal but it seems worth fixing.

Insert name wrote:

Hey Rob,

Seems they only have 5 bolts listed on there or my phone just doesn’t like the website. 
I know there are some old bolts at Sundown, Saco Crag and a few other low trafficked areas that could be due for an upgrade.

Might be only 5 on their list, there has been a bit of replacement the past 3-5 years at some "lesser and moderately used" areas by various "private" individuals (as far as I've seen all with 3/8 inch SS bolts & hangers) so maybe only the really obscure areas (like Saco crag ! ) still need it. I know Lost Ledge, Rainbow, Table Mtn, Found Ledge, Sugarloaf (Zealand Rd) and Mt. Willard's Main Face have had all the old 1/4-inch-ers replaced.  Same for the few old 1/4-inch-ers on Willard's Buttress#1 -  except only the anchor on "Lead Poisoning" anchor has been replaced, but not the one 1/4-inch on P1 nor the two 1/4-inch-ers on P2.  Some of the bolts on the upper tier of Willard are old, non-SS 3/8-inch with Aluminum hangers.  Attatash Crag is in pretty good shape, although some are non-SS 3/8-inch they still look good, and the anchors are all new-ish SS.  

 I've have to think someone has done something at Sundown, but I haven't been there in a while, and lots is "above my pay grade".   Places like Woodchuck, when I visited there 1-2 yrs ago, still had a lot of old, plated-and-now-well-rusted 3/8 inch, so you'd need to have removal of these (which isn't easy like the old 1/4-inch-ers) "dialed in".  

Robert Hall wrote:

Might be only 5 on their list, there has been a bit of replacement the past 3-5 years at some "lesser and moderately used" areas by various "private" individuals (as far as I've seen all with 3/8 inch SS bolts & hangers) so maybe only the really obscure areas (like Saco crag ! ) still need it. I know Lost Ledge, Rainbow, Table Mtn, Found Ledge, Sugarloaf (Zealand Rd) and Mt. Willard's Main Face have had all the old 1/4-inch-ers replaced.  Same for the few old 1/4-inch-ers on Willard's Buttress#1 -  except only the anchor on "Lead Poisoning" anchor has been replaced, but not the one 1/4-inch on P1 nor the two 1/4-inch-ers on P2.  Some of the bolts on the upper tier of Willard are old, non-SS 3/8-inch with Aluminum hangers.  Attatash Crag is in pretty good shape, although some are non-SS 3/8-inch they still look good, and the anchors are all new-ish SS.  

 I've have to think someone has done something at Sundown, but I haven't been there in a while, and lots is "above my pay grade".   Places like Woodchuck, when I visited there 1-2 yrs ago, still had a lot of old, plated-and-now-well-rusted 3/8 inch, so you'd need to have removal of these (which isn't easy like the old 1/4-inch-ers) "dialed in".  

Yeah I know the ones I can think of at Sundown are the 3/8 bolts with the sleeve and they are a PITA. 

Woodchuck was also a place that came to mind. A lot of the routes also need a good scrub there.

Yeah no one really seems to respond to that page.  Most people have gotten a hold of me personally.  
PM if your interested to replacing old bolts. Friends of the Ledges has been heading this up I the valley.  Ideally reusing the old hole as not to turn the rock into swiss cheese.  
Otherwise how long of a list do you want for route scrubbing?  
sam

This should def turn into a scrub list

samuel von hammerstien wrote: Yeah no one really seems to respond to that page.  Most people have gotten a hold of me personally.  
PM if your interested to replacing old bolts. Friends of the Ledges has been heading this up I the valley.  Ideally reusing the old hole as not to turn the rock into swiss cheese.  
Otherwise how long of a list do you want for route scrubbing?  
sam

I’ll send you a PM!

Gravitational Mass and Sidereal motion on the Cosmic Crag could use bolt replacement.  The anchor on GM is a mess...

HBTHREE wrote: This should def turn into a scrub list

I’m bored AF. If anyone has anything that needs a scrub and has access from the top I’ll try to give it some love. 

I may be able to replace some bolts too. 

Ha right on!!! Hmmm I think crag y  would be awesome with some love? Most of the fa's said don't mind bolt ption exchange don't qoute me tho....  sundown?!?!  What's up by loon on the left side 112 bolted in 90's goodish but completely mossed? Lincoln crag? Needs 2 scrubbs

Seth Maciejowski wrote: Gravitational Mass and Sidereal motion on the Cosmic Crag could use bolt replacement.  The anchor on GM is a mess...

Lost Souls could use a little love if we're on this side of Whitehorse.

HBTHREE wrote: Ha right on!!! Hmmm I think crag y  would be awesome with some love? Most of the fa's said don't mind bolt ption exchange don't qoute me tho....  sundown?!?!  What's up by loon on the left side 112 bolted in 90's goodish but completely mossed? Lincoln crag? Needs 2 scrubbs

Sundown: has a few climbs that could use a bolt or two replaced. “she’s crafty” and possibly “after the Fox” which is what got me started on this whole idea. 

Mineral site crag: took a hike out today and cleaned up some trash. Does anyone have ideas on climbs/boulder problems that aren’t in the Handren book?  
Saco Crag: I plan on scrubbing some of the stuff here and checking the bolts.
Cemetery Cliff: if anyone knows of any climbs put up after the handren book (or ice/mixed climbs) I am thinking of spending some time on cleaning up some of the area.
CMC: all climbs looked climbable a few days ago.
Attitash: a few of the climbs could used scrubbed, but I don’t think anyone wants to cross the river.** There is a cliff west of this between cave mountain/here, does anyone know if this is private or any info?**

lost soles always had funky bolts and some bent hangers... 

• I recall the crux bolt on "Intimidation" being a little questionable....  

I was meaning to rap in and scrub that line and "Don't Fire..." last year but didnt get to it. Could use it a little TLC.  But that area is probably closed for birds at the moment.  

So the south buttress is friends of the ledges goal this year, before all this pandemic...
Lost souls is on my list.
So the Intimidation bolt is in the wrong spot, so ive never replaced it.  There is great gear to it left, more in line with the route.  And before we get it into it, moving the bolt will change the character of the route. This route is supposed to be a little spooky, Its in the name.  
That all being said be careful out there.  We have all ready had one rescue this spring and that was one to many.
Sam