Holes in toes of shoes

Hello people,

When I am working a route on top rope or leading an easy route to set a top rope for a friend I like to wear old pairs of shoes so I don't wear out my fresher ones. Is there anything to be bought that can be used to cover the front of the toe once the rubber has worn completely out? I obviously don't really care about the performance of the shoes so much. 

Have you tried a white athletic tube sock?

How about ya slather some "shoe goo" on the toes? Is that stuff still available?

Not sure what does work but don’t bother trying plasti-dip or similar products I tried 10 coats once and it all wore off after one indoor climb

Choss Wrangler wrote: Hello people,

When I am working a route on top rope or leading an easy route to set a top rope for a friend I like to wear old pairs of shoes so I don't wear out my fresher ones. Is there anything to be bought that can be used to cover the front of the toe once the rubber has worn completely out? I obviously don't really care about the performance of the shoes so much. 

I can glue a bulbous rubber toe cap on there for you. PM me to discuss.

EDIT - here's a cap loosely fitted. Not glued on or trimmed. Not at all appropriate for rock shoes used for free climbing, but useful for your aid climbing boots.

Gunkiemike wrote:

I can glue a bulbous rubber toe cap on there for you. PM me to discuss.

As if climbing shoes do not already resemble a clown shoe.

Fill the hole with epoxy. Pretty much the opposite of sticky rubber as far as performance but will last a long time. 

Freesole

"Mike" recommended "Freesole"...that's very good, but "Aquaseal" (made by the same Co.) is a bit "thicker" and less "runny" when applying. (You'll still have to "watch it" for the 1st hour or so unless it's aplied to a horizontal surface).

 Can get either from "Gear Aid .com" The "Aquaseal" also comes in a (much more expensive by-the-ounce, UV activated) version that cures in, like, 30-60 seconds in sunlight.  

For your application, stick with the regular stuff. I think it's tougher than the UV-activated.

Robert Hall wrote: "Mike" recommended "Freesole"...that's very good, but "Aquaseal" (made by the same Co.) is a bit "thicker" and less "runny" when applying. (You'll still have to "watch it" for the 1st hour or so unless it's aplied to a horizontal surface).

 Can get either from "Gear Aid .com" The "Aquaseal" also comes in a (much more expensive by-the-ounce, UV activated) version that cures in, like, 30-60 seconds in sunlight.  

For your application, stick with the regular stuff. I think it's tougher than the UV-activated.

Freesole is no longer available from Gear Aid and has been replaced by Aquaseal. https://www.gearaid.com/search?q=freesole

Additionally, Gear Aid is not accepting online orders at this time, but you can probably find some Aquaseal on other sites or in stores.

Gunkiemike wrote:

I can glue a bulbous rubber toe cap on there for you. PM me to discuss.

EDIT - here's a cap loosely fitted. Not glued on or trimmed. Not at all appropriate for rock shoes used for free climbing, but useful for your aid climbing boots.

A more reasonable repair would look like this (before vs. after):

very cool with he toe caps. The second picture looks like good work also. I'm really just looking for a cheap and quick patch up through

For a cheap option, how about a piece of bike tire inner tube? I don't know how long it would last, but might be worth a try.

Tony G wrote: For a cheap option, how about a piece of bike tire inner tube? I don't know how long it would last, but might be worth a try.

It can work - see my discussion of it in the rand thread - but unless you're glueing it to the shoe AND tucking it under the new sole rubber, it's not going to last more than a pitch or two.

Choss Wrangler wrote:

very cool with he toe caps. The second picture looks like good work also. I'm really just looking for a cheap and quick patch up through

Let me ask - what things can you NOT do currently due to the condition of your shoes? I've seen plenty of "dead" shoes; they'd all be more than adequate for climbing 2-3 grades below your limit.