please help explain the Eva Lopez protocol
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I have I hope correctly identified that I need more finger strength. I come from a hard trad back round mostly sport climbing and bordering now these days. I aspire to break into the 14a/8b+ grade by 31 I am 30 in 30 days. I got a good deal on Eva's board it seems like the ticket for getting better on small holds which is the set back I am experiencing on the the rock. my board did not have the poster with it. I have done repeaters but feel like I plateaued quickly with that set up. |
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Check out the new hangboarding E book by Betchel Climb Strong Hangboard Manual Plenty of good programs to help get the fingers stronger. Lots of people seem to bang there heads against the same workout year after year with minimal gains after the first 2-3 months. I think the best solution is to mix it up but always be hangboarding. Sometimes a lot, othertimes just a bit. I have yet to meet a climber who had too strong of fingers. Good luck with your goals! |
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Finger strength is always the issue. The Lattice guys say something like the average 5.13 climber can hold 85% of their body weight one-handed on a 20mm edge for 5 seconds. I’m scratching at 13’s, and am pretty close to being able to do that particular hang. Meanwhile, there’s a Cafe Kraft vid that shows Alex Megos hanging off a similar edge, one handed, with what appears to be 50-60 lbs added. So basically, there’s about an 80# disparity -per hand- between him and I... that means, finger-wise, he could climb my hardest sends -with me on his back-! Needless to say, I’ve recently redoubled my hangboard efforts... |
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Rob, |
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That’s a lofty goal, I share it with you. I am older, but have a bigger base of 5.13 routes. |
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Well... i didnt do it. |
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Bummer to hear you ended up on the injury list. I made the grade by getting a bit stronger fingers (consistent V8/9 in a session or two) and ruthlessly wiring the goal route over a dozen weekends. |