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please help explain the Eva Lopez protocol

Original Post
Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

I have I hope correctly identified that I need more finger strength. I come from a hard trad back round mostly sport climbing and bordering now these days. I aspire to break into the 14a/8b+ grade by 31 I am 30 in 30 days. I got a good deal on Eva's board it seems like the ticket for getting better on small holds which is the set back I am experiencing on the the rock. my board did not have the poster with it. I have done repeaters but feel like I plateaued quickly with that set up.

I am 6'1 170lbs very strong in the big muscle groups.

deadlift 250-300
weighted pull up +150 MAX
weighted pull up 10 reps at +75lbs

bouldering v8-9 red-pointing 5.13b/c  

like i said I want to be a V10/14A climber in a year. I think i can do it. I think the place to start is finger strength. it seems like the other muscles are there. any thoughts even if they arnt on the lopez method

Kevin Stricker · · Evergreen, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,242

Check out the new hangboarding E book by Betchel Climb Strong Hangboard Manual Plenty of good programs to help get the fingers stronger. Lots of people seem to bang there heads against the same workout year after year with minimal gains after the first 2-3 months. I think the best solution is to mix it up but always be hangboarding. Sometimes a lot, othertimes just a bit. I have yet to meet a climber who had too strong of fingers. Good luck with your goals!

Mark Paulson · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 141

Finger strength is always the issue.  The Lattice guys say something like the average 5.13 climber can hold 85% of their body weight one-handed on a 20mm edge for 5 seconds.  I’m scratching at 13’s, and am pretty close to being able to do that particular hang.  Meanwhile, there’s a Cafe Kraft vid that shows Alex Megos hanging off a similar edge, one handed, with what appears to be 50-60 lbs added.  So basically, there’s about an 80# disparity -per hand- between him and I... that means, finger-wise, he could climb my hardest sends -with me on his back-!  Needless to say, I’ve recently redoubled my hangboard efforts...

SM Ryan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 1,146

Rob,

Eva is hosting a clinic at Momentum Millcreek, SLC in August.

Also, if you search her blog posts there is enough information there to put together a training protocol:
http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com

Good luck!

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 406

That’s a lofty goal, I share it with you. I am older, but have a bigger base of 5.13 routes. 
As has been mentioned above, there are many fingerboard protocols on the internet for free, but no magic one that will work for everyone.
The Self Coached Climber says that your fingers are plenty strong for 5.14a. The two other metrics are 4x4 and 20 min. continuous climbing grade. You should target V5+\6- for 4x4 and be able to continuously climb 5.12-
I think you need your tactics in line to get there in a year.
You need to know your goal route and/or boulder and train specifically for them. ‘The Present’ and ‘T-Rex’ will have radically different training plans behind them. 

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

Well... i didnt do it.

I got the most hurt  in my life. (Big time tbi)

But i deadlift 450 now 

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 406

Bummer to hear you ended up on the injury list. I made the grade by getting a bit stronger fingers (consistent V8/9 in a session or two) and ruthlessly wiring the goal route over a dozen weekends. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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