Indian Creek Route Suggestions

Headed to the creek in a few weeks here and was wondering if anyone could provide a few suggestions for "new age" type routes at IC. I love long splitters too, but it would be nice to switch it up a bit.

So far i have the following on the list:
1. Let 'er buck
2. Air Sweeden
3. The Judge
4. My Little Friend
5. Cat Burglar to tasmania
6. Burl Dog

If there are more classics than those on my list I'd be stoked to hear about them! 5.11+ to 5.13- would be the ideal range.

Foy O wrote: Get that 2nd Carbondale Shortbus Ascent 

Lol. While that route looks sick,I think it's a bit over my pay grade at the moment... .12+/.13- is pushing it as it is...

Foy O wrote: Get that 2nd Carbondale Shortbus Ascent 

https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/brad-gobright-rides-carbondale-shortbus-chains/

Matt Segal, James Pearson, and Brad Gobright have all repeated the route.

The Will Stanhope line "Down in Albion" seems to meet your criteria.

There are a bunch that meet your criteria. Here are some off the top of my head.

Tender Vittles, Burl Dog, and Kung Pao Cat on Cat Wall fits your bill.

Half Man Half Alligator Shark at Donnelly

Like a Prayer at Battle of the Bulge

Humble Pie at 2nd Meat.

Can you get to Tasmania from Cat Burglar? I think it would have to be a hell of a pendulum but maybe I am mis-remembering.

Also to add, if you don’t have a lot of experience in the creek, be really careful with the tiny gear that a lot of these routes require. It’s not granite! 

Mean Black Dog at Selfish Wall is a good time.

I thought The Judge at The Wall was sort of "new school." If anything it's a departure from the plug n' chug. I also thought Xtra Lean at 2nd Meat was sort of in the same realm as well. Lastly, Death of A Cowboy has a short, finger locking burly boulder problem to a long (like 120') of #3 Camalots. 

Gumby the White wrote: Headed to the creek in a few weeks here and was wondering if anyone could provide a few suggestions for "new age" type routes at IC. I love long splitters too, but it would be nice to switch it up a bit.

So far i have the following on the list:
1. Let 'er buck
2. Air Sweeden
3. The Judge
4. My Little Friend
5. Cat Burglar to tasmania
6. Burl Dog

If there are more classics than those on my list I'd be stoked to hear about them! 5.11+ to 5.13- would be the ideal range.

The Wall, and Cat Wall, Meat Walls, The Fin, Res, etc are closed for peregrines, so no Judge, Cat Burglar, Tasmania, Burl Dog. Closures began March 1 https://www.blm.gov/press-release/blm-announces-avoidance-areas-protect-raptors-indian-creek   Check the map on this page for all areas to avoid.

Highlander wrote:

The Wall, and Cat Wall are closed for peregrines, so no Judge, Cat Burglar, Tasmania, Burl Dog. 

Good reminder. Thanks. 

might earn the "new age" distinction, but also might be a hair harder than 13-. It has a bolt protected boulder problem crux as well as some stellar crack climbing. Disclaimer: I want people to climb this route.

I recommend you don't go rifling through someones bag, film yourself on their camera. And I also don't recommend you try to sue them when they threaten to beat the shit out of you. 

revans90 wrote: Jonny cat to Tassi. I thought puma was interesting. Desert moon is really really good and the direct start is awesome stemming. 9 lives Has an exposed crack switch. Burl dog is burly. Wild cat is awesome.

hydraulic pump and crank case at 4x4 are routes I lv wanted check out and heard they are very good.

I think You can setup a tr on Air Sweden by climbing up from three strikes your out anchor.disco machine gun! Jane Fonda total body work has a variety. Christmas tree route take something like 12-14 green aliens! 

Thanks for the info brajiiiii. I really like stemming so adding desert moon. 

Jesus Christ hahaha 12 green aliens 

Highlander wrote:

The Wall, and Cat Wall, Meat Walls, The Fin, Res, etc are closed for peregrines, so no Judge, Cat Burglar, Tasmania, Burl Dog. 

Until when!?!?! Fekkkkkk burl dog was high on the list!!!

Can someone tell me what "new age"/"new school" means?

Khoi wrote: Can someone tell me what "new age"/"new school" means?

Something newer that Steve Hong didn't put up, but also something that Matty Hong could climb.

Khoi wrote: Can someone tell me what "new age"/"new school" means?

Something in the creek that’s not a long splitter. Wild climbing on face holds, aretes, flares, and seams with tiny pro or bolts that may or may not lead to a crack 

Khoi wrote: Can someone tell me what "new age"/"new school" means?

The lines between the lines, getting done more recently. In the context of Indian creek, it would be routes that are not your typical creek pitch. Face climbing, bouldery stuff, arete shenans, etc.

To add a few that haven't been suggested:

The Sting at Petrified Hornet; bouldery roof start to a short section of off-fingers, followed by cool face moves around a series of wedged (solid) blocks and an overhung hands finish.

Pat's Blue Ribbon consistently gets rave reviews, but I haven't been on it, so can't speak from my own experience

Pistol Whipped has a couple of fun ones; Desert Eagle, Sig Saur, and the thing to the right of Sig Saur (might have a name in the new book? can't remember). Sig Saur ends with a run of splitter fingers, but the start is a fun series of interesting moves up a pillar to a leaning crack. The thing to the right is mostly protected by .75 Camalots but I remember a bunch of fun and kinda wild climbing. Desert Eagle starts with a hard bolt protected boulder problem into a weird off-size finger/hand crack in a flare. Some body english required.

While Sinestra has its fair share of plug and chug steep hand crack (and by that I mean about 40m of hands), the crack switch in the middle might be the single coolest move at Indian Creek, at least on a 5.11

Edit: memory is a funny thing. I recall the podded crack below the headwall on Sig Saur as longer and more engaging than the actual finger crack... Same with the thing to the right. Guess I gotta go back and climb them again.

Whenever Reservoir Wall is open, “Less Than Zero“ seems pretty neat.

Shelton Hatfield wrote: Whenever Reservoir Wall is open, “Less Than Zero“ seems pretty neat.

LOOKS SICK! thanks

Matt Z wrote:
Pistol Whipped has a couple of fun ones; Desert Eagle, Sig Saur, and the thing to the right of Sig Saur (might have a name in the new book? can't remember). Sig Saur ends with a run of splitter fingers, but the start is a fun series of interesting moves up a pillar to a leaning crack. The thing to the right is mostly protected by .75 Camalots but I remember a bunch of fun and kinda wild climbing.

Both great climbs, but more or less splitter crack climbs. Sig Saur is straight in tight fingers and Yehaw (the route to the right) is left leaning off fingers.
But right around the corner, The Montana Weed Connection looks nutty and as new-school as it gets: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/106987613