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Routes in Sacred Cow Wall
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Angus Herder T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Calm as a Hindu Cow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coco's Boathouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cowch Potato T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Deal With It T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Enlightenment T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fatted Calf T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Have a Cow T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Karin's Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Milk Box, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Needs Pineapple T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Out To Pasture T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Sacred Cow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sample the Sausage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Steve Carruthers Memorial T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Styminger, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Surf and Turf T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Thumbstacks, Ribeyes, and Sundresses T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tungo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Twin Cam T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Vegetarian Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Equipped by: Shelton Hatfield, FFA: Eric Bissell (Nov. 2018) |
| Page Views: | 1,317 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Shelton Hatfield on Nov 6, 2019 |
| Admins: | slim, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas (LIFTED 9/10/2024)- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This aesthetic route will test your power as well as your endurance, starting with a techy yet burly boulder problem, and ending with loads of excellent fingers and off fingers crack climbing. Stop reading here if you don't want the spraydown.
The route begins on a ledge to the right of the crack. Your belayer should be standing down and left of the ledge 20ft below you. Traverse broken jugs leftward under the roof on relatively easy moves. If you stick clipped, you're safe. If not, you're looking at a horrendous groundfall where you inevitably become talus food.
The bolt can be clipped from an undercling below the roof before the business begins and protects the boulder crux on the thin, offset seam. Shallow locks and sidepulls with creative footwork on the lip of the roof will get you over the roof and past the hardest moves on the route. In theory.
Move into splitter fingers as the crack begins widening, going through a few changing corners on off-fingers. Just when things are getting desperate you arrive at a stance and can get some juice back, which is good because the enduro crux looms above. Plug some gear and enter the BEAUTIFUL offset fingers splitter, which slowly narrows to tips. Rock gods might be able to stop and place gear, but most mere mortals will probably just "buy the ticket", if you know what I mean. Right before the crack pinches to nothingness, some pods miraculously appear and allow for the best clipping stance one could reasonably ask for on this type of affair. Clip the anchor and lower back to the ledge where it all began with a 70m rope.
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