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Routes in Sacred Cow Wall
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Angus Herder T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Calm as a Hindu Cow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Coco's Boathouse T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cowch Potato T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Deal With It T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Enlightenment T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Fatted Calf T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Have a Cow T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Karin's Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Milk Box, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Needs Pineapple T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Out To Pasture T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Sacred Cow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sample the Sausage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Steve Carruthers Memorial T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Styminger, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Surf and Turf T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Thumbstacks, Ribeyes, and Sundresses T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tungo T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Twin Cam T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Vegetarian Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 38.14011, -109.58944 |
| FA: | Equipped by: Shelton Hatfield, FFA: Eric Bissell (Nov. 2018) |
| Page Views: | 1,501 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Shelton Hatfield on Nov 6, 2019 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
This aesthetic route will test your power as well as your endurance, starting with a techy yet burly boulder problem, and ending with loads of excellent fingers and off fingers crack climbing. Stop reading here if you don't want the spraydown.
The route begins on a ledge to the right of the crack. Your belayer should be standing down and left of the ledge 20ft below you. Traverse broken jugs leftward under the roof on relatively easy moves. If you stick clipped, you're safe. If not, you're looking at a horrendous groundfall where you inevitably become talus food.
The bolt can be clipped from an undercling below the roof before the business begins and protects the boulder crux on the thin, offset seam. Shallow locks and sidepulls with creative footwork on the lip of the roof will get you over the roof and past the hardest moves on the route. In theory.
Move into splitter fingers as the crack begins widening, going through a few changing corners on off-fingers. Just when things are getting desperate you arrive at a stance and can get some juice back, which is good because the enduro crux looms above. Plug some gear and enter the BEAUTIFUL offset fingers splitter, which slowly narrows to tips. Rock gods might be able to stop and place gear, but most mere mortals will probably just "buy the ticket", if you know what I mean. Right before the crack pinches to nothingness, some pods miraculously appear and allow for the best clipping stance one could reasonably ask for on this type of affair. Clip the anchor and lower back to the ledge where it all began with a 70m rope.
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