Bad anchors in the creek

What are some routes with anchors that need replacing? I’ll be spending a lot of time in the creek this spring and would like to upgrade some anchors. I have a short list but if anyone has a long list going, I’d love to see it. I also have a lot of extra rappel hardware if you can think of any popular routes that are still tat anchors. I plan to use SS Powers 5pieces ½” x 4.75”.

15 years ago this seemed to be a major problem. A lot of folks would sporadically replace anchors while mostly just climbing down there. This helped a little.

A few years (maybe more) some die-hards, I think from Durango got hyper motivated and had huge topics on MP for replacement projects. Everyone owes these guys a beer or at least an empty wag bag, they did a ton. Truly a stellar effort.

It makes me wonder though, given the popularity of the area, how many bad anchors are left? Would it be replacing good with better?Are there still Hong and Bandito single lower offs? Is it now more logical to spend your time and resources improving trails and picking up trash?

I don't know, I don't climb there anymore. Just a thought.

Anyway, thank you for your willingness to help help rather than just go climbing.

Scott E wrote: What are some routes with anchors that need replacing? I’ll be spending a lot of time in the creek this spring and would like to upgrade some anchors. I have a short list but if anyone has a long list going, I’d love to see it. I also have a lot of extra rappel hardware if you can think of any popular routes that are still tat anchors. I plan to use SS Powers 5pieces ½” x 4.75”.

Hey Scott - thanks for the interest. Here is a list in the form of a Google Doc. If you have an issue accessing it feel free to reach out to me directly at lukemehall@gmail.com 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1E366QD9Uzx2oLuT0xsuJ7ydM0OWuFdaIQobRw33ZCts/edit#gid=0

peace,
Luke

The anchors on King Cat need to be lowered about 3 ft or get a long chain : ) (joking obviously - calm down). 

Thanks the list Luke. I’ll let you know if I take care of any of those routes

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:It makes me wonder though, given the popularity of the area, how many bad anchors are left? Would it be replacing good with better?Are there still Hong and Bandito single lower offs?

The creek is popular and has a lot of bomber anchors but there are tons of routes there. There aren’t very many 1/4” left but I still see a lot of ⅜” wedge bolts, smc hangers, and drilled angles in the creek, especially if you get on more obscure routes. Yeah they hold for now but they could be a lot better. A ⅜” wedge is probably the worse “modern” bolt for softer sandstone. Drilled angles are a thing of the past IMO but people still install new ones

Off the top of my head, the unnamed 5.11 to the right of Shayna's at Habitado. #8 in the Kelley book. As of the November it was three drilled angles with a sling

Scott E wrote: Thanks the list Luke. I’ll let you know if I take care of any of those routes

No problem. You should be able to edit within the document. Again, hit me up if you have any questions or issues. 

Also: using plated steel is just fine out there, there's such little moisture that you don't need to use stainless steel.

And of course please spray paint your hardware to camouflage it!

peace,
Luke

Kumar FK wrote: Off the top of my head, the unnamed 5.11 to the right of Shayna's at Habitado. #8 in the Kelley book. As of the November it was three drilled angles with a sling

According to the comment on THIS ROUTE, "Shayna's First Bigwall" and the unnamed 5.11 to the right both got new bolts and chain. But that possibly seems contradictory to your comment so perhaps "#8" is a different route. I don't have the book in front of me.

Shelton Hatfield wrote:

According to the comment on THIS ROUTE, "Shayna's First Bigwall" and the unnamed 5.11 to the right both got new bolts and chain. But that possibly seems contradictory to your comment so perhaps "#8" is a different route. I don't have the book in front of me.

Yeah it looks like maybe they replaced it, it could've been October that I climbed it and looked at the anchor and maybe it was replaced after that. I guess I'll just get back on it this spring and take a look! 

Not in IC, but the anchors for the second pitch of android waffle hotline in day canyon aren't awesome and the second pitch is pretty neat.