How to get to anchor for toprope soloing

I've recently picked up toprope soloing. I really enjoy it, but it's pretty limiting being only able to work on projects that can be accessed from the top. I was wondering how people usually get to the anchor to setup a fixed line on climbs that can only be accessed from the bottom. Most of the MP threads on lead soloing seem to be focused on leading with the intent of sending, while I am more interested in just getting to the top to setup a toprope using any means necessary .

Those threads also suggest you need a different set of devices for lead vs toprope solo (such as the Silent Partner). This seems overkill for my use case. Are there any cost-effective options that will still get me up a route quickly?

Current toprope solo setup:

• Microtraxion
• GriGri as backup (this sucks, planning on replacing with Vergo soon)

EDIT: I should have clarified that I'm talking about trad routes specifically here, so stick clipping isn't an option. 

Please, please, can we not go through all THIS again?
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/118156630/getting-to-the-anchor-for-a-top-rope-solo

Zachary K wrote: 
Current toprope solo setup:

• Microtraxion
• GriGri as backup (this sucks, planning on replacing with Vergo soon)

DO NOT run the Grigri under the Micro on the same line. If the upper device fails, it will sit down on the Gri and keep it from camming onto the rope as it should. 

Also, because the Grigri rarely self-feeds, it will lift the rope as you climb, releasing tension so that your upper device probably won't self feed either. So Grigri on a separate rope if you must use it.

Install a bolt ladder to the LEFT not right of the current climb you are trying to get to the top of. Install the bolts close enough where you can use two daisies to aid up the bolt ladder safely. 

Gunkiemike wrote:

DO NOT run the Grigri under the Micro on the same line. 

I'm not. 

Gunkiemike wrote: Please, please, can we not go through all THIS again?
https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/118156630/getting-to-the-anchor-for-a-top-rope-solo

Not sure how I missed that thread, but regardless I should have clarified I'm mostly talking about trad routes here. So stick clipping isn't an option. 

You've got feet right? Walk around. It can get interesting but is usually possible.

For trad, belay yourself with a gri-gri and aid it. In a place like Indian Creek, Edward Cam-Hands is often quicker than doing it right. Just make sure to back up your placements. For real rock climbing, a single etrier, a few slings, and adjustable daisy (whether climbing brand or tie down) will get you up most things. Depending on the route, you may need to top step.

But seriously, look for the walk up. It's usually there.

The concept of solo aiding up a trad route is essentially the same thing as on bolts. 

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote: You've got feet right? Walk around. It can get interesting but is usually possible.

 For trad, belay yourself with a gri-gri and aid it. In a place like Indian Creek, Edward Cam-Hands is often quicker than doing it right. Just make sure to back up your placements. For real rock climbing, a single etrier, a few slings, and adjustable daisy (whether climbing brand or tie down) will get you up most things. Depending on the route, you may need to top step.

But seriously, look for the walk up. It's usually there.

I figured aiding up a single pitch would be faster than rappelling down 6 pitches but maybe not.

I F wrote:The concept of solo aiding up a trad route is essentially the same thing as on bolts.

Okay so more or less do this approach with gear?

 "As long as there's a bottom anchor, just stick clip to the first bolt, climb/jug/self pulley up to it, go in direct there, give yourself enough slack to reach next bolt,  repeat. Clove hitch yourself to the rope so you're never off belay. The guy who died didn't have a proper self belay; he was just aiding up bolt to bolt, never connected to more than a single one."

Gunkiemike wrote:

DO NOT run the Grigri under the Micro on the same line. If the upper device fails, it will sit down on the Gri and keep it from camming onto the rope as it should. 

Also, because the Grigri rarely self-feeds, it will lift the rope as you climb, releasing tension so that your upper device probably won't self feed either. So Grigri on a separate rope if you must use it.

is this also true on a fixed line? if i'm cleaning a route on a fixed line and have a microtraxion for jugging up and a gri gri to hold me hands-free, is this dangerous? or is this only in a top rope soloing application that it's bad? sorry if this is a dumb question.

You're asking how to aid solo?

It's more involved than we can explain here. Ask a friend or read a book.

The idea is that you anchor the rope to the ground and keep the belay moving with you. Probably at you chest.

Unless you are just asking how to aid. If so, read more of that book. You don't need to be an expert but you do need to be safe.

How many ropes do you have? Multi pitch TR solo is a hoot and solves your rapping dilemma.

There are routes that may be hard to aid without specialty aid gear, some of which should not be used on free climbs, especially on softer rock.

Unless you are talking towers/free standing pillars, you can often access a high point via a long hike/scramble/5.easy solo around, which will allow you to rap into the climb. This worked for me at smith rock on many routes that at first glance seem extremely difficult to access the top.

Otherwise you can aid solo as others have said. You can use a simple clove hitch to self belay. A labor intensive way to set up a TR for sure, but if youre seriously projecting a route it may be worth it.

Sam X wrote: There are routes that may be hard to aid without specialty aid gear, some of which should not be used on free climbs, especially on softer rock.

Unless you are talking towers/free standing pillars, you can often access a high point via a long hike/scramble/5.easy solo around, which will allow you to rap into the climb. This worked for me at smith rock on many routes that at first glance seem extremely difficult to access the top.

Otherwise you can aid solo as others have said. You can use a simple clove hitch to self belay. A labor intensive way to set up a TR for sure, but if youre seriously projecting a route it may be worth it.

Thanks, that answers my question. The threads I researched before were mostly referring to free rope soloing, hence my confusion. The GriGri/clove hitch method seems pretty reasonable for getting up a single pitch. 

OP- You live in Seattle. Which areas/walls/routes are you interested in TR soloing? Many of the nearby-to-Seattle areas are very TR-soloable (without having to lead solo anything), but each area has its own tricks to make it work. Some are a lot easier than others though. Let me know if there are specific routes you need beta for.

One all-time classic local TR solo outing is to hike to the top of the UTW with a 70 meter rope (long hike...). Drop the rope down Loving Arms. A 70 will just barely (tie a knot in the rope end!) reach the big ledge ledge where Davis-Holland joins Loving Arms.. Now you can TR solo those 3 pitches of Loving Arms in one shot. Rap down in do it again. Now, you can move a few feet to the side and TR solo the top couple pitches of Crimson Eye, Heavens Gate, etc.  All are amazing climbing, exposed setting at the top of the cliff, etc.  Be courteous of normal multipitching parties.

Disclaimer: TR soloing on the top of a mutlipitch cliff is inherently more serious than at a single pitch crag. Get your systems dialed first, before going up there.

JCM wrote: OP- You live in Seattle. Which areas/walls/routes are you interested in TR soloing? Many of the nearby-to-Seattle areas are very TR-soloable (without having to lead solo anything), but each area has its own tricks to make it work. Some are a lot easier than others though. Let me know if there are specific routes you need beta for.

One all-time classic local TR solo outing is to hike to the top of the UTW with a 70 meter rope (long hike...). Drop the rope down Loving Arms. A 70 will just barely (tie a knot in the rope end!) reach the big ledge ledge where Davis-Holland joins Loving Arms.. Now you can TR solo those 3 pitches of Loving Arms in one shot. Rap down in do it again. Now, you can move a few feet to the side and TR solo the top couple pitches of Crimson Eye, Heavens Gate, etc.  All are amazing climbing, exposed setting at the top of the cliff, etc.  Be courteous of normal multipitching parties.

Disclaimer: TR soloing on the top of a mutlipitch cliff is inherently more serious than at a single pitch crag. Get your systems dialed first, before going up there.

I mostly had Index in mind.  For some reason I hadn't really considered doing just the top pitches, but that sounds like an awesome day. Thanks! 

Zachary K wrote:

I mostly had Index in mind.  For some reason I hadn't really considered doing just the top pitches, but that sounds like an awesome day. Thanks! 

You can do something similar on various parts of the LTW. There are high quality upper-pitches there (including some of the best 5.10s in Index), and this keeps you out of the junk show that is the base of the LTW.  Be very careful not to knock anything down onto the crowds below. Once you have your fill of the upper pitches, do a couple of raps to get down into the lower pitches, and TR solo a few of those. Many days of fun to be had this way.

Index has a lot of tricks to efficiently get to the tops of routes to TR solo them (without having to lead solo anything to get there). Especially around the LTW area. Just spend some time there and talk to the regulars, and you'll figure it out.

The clove hitch around a locking carabiner on the harness works.  I've done it. Though, I did not take any falls.  Good on moderate routes where you have free hands frequently.

The clove hitch (make sure you tie it correctly) gives a somewhat dynamic belay when loaded.  Once off the ground tie stopper knots (overhand or figure-8 on a bight) to keep from hitting ground or falling too far.

Soloing requires patience.  It is a whole different aspect to the sport.  Not the best way to push your numbers higher.  Great way to achieve solitude and self-reliance.

I'd say about 90% of routes in Index are easily accessible from above, including most everything at the LTW. Start scrambling. You'll figure it out.