What does your Woody look like??? 2.0

Seth Bleazard wrote: Hey guys, what are the standard measurements in woody building? How big will a bolt on your regular climbing hold be? What about common t-nut grids? I'm going with 4 inches from the corners and then every 8 inches, but is this a common choice?

-standard bolt as far as I know is 3/8"-16. Half inch is I believe standard for the hole for the T-nut. Treat yourself to a nice sharp new bit, it's a lot of drilling. 

-If the back of your wall is going to be inaccessible, consider T nuts that can be screwed down, like the Escape Climbing Industrial T nut

-you might want to go to a climbing gym or two and see what grid they use. My Tension board uses a 4"x4" grid which might be a little intense for general purpose route setting, but 8" might be a little bit big, not sure.

-you might consider getting a drill guide so things are nice and square, and you might consider drilling the grid simultaneously on multiple sheets stacked together. Make sure your grid and your framing don't conflict.

Current set. Coming down in April for a new set. It's a daunting task that takes well a month or so but it's been up almost two years and its stating to feel a bit stale. Still a few problems on this one I never sent (shrug)

Seth Bleazard wrote: Hey guys, what are the standard measurements in woody building? How big will a bolt on your regular climbing hold be? What about common t-nut grids? I'm going with 4 inches from the corners and then every 8 inches, but is this a common choice?

My walls have a 4" grid and not every t nut gets used. It can get quite dense with holds and if you don't have boatloads of holds you probably don't need it this dense. Bolts are all 3/8" I believe and the bolt size depends on the size of the holds, usually when you order holds they will tell you the numbers and measurements for the bolts that you need to go with your order. Commonly 1.5", 2", 2.5", larger holds like slopers need 3" or more. Giant feature holds and bolt on volumes can require up to 10-12" bolts which are quite expensive.

Seth Bleazard wrote: Hey guys, what are the standard measurements in woody building? How big will a bolt on your regular climbing hold be? What about common t-nut grids? I'm going with 4 inches from the corners and then every 8 inches, but is this a common choice?

I was at the gym yesterday and looked at what they do. It looked like they were 8" apart horizontally and 4" apart vertically, and alternating rows were offset by 4". Like this:

*       *
     *        *

Optimistic wrote:

I was at the gym yesterday and looked at what they do. It looked like they were 8" apart horizontally and 4" apart vertically, and alternating rows were offset by 4". Like this:

*       *
     *        *

That's pretty standard and a good middle ground, results in ~6" diagonal grid. Takes 1/2 the t-nuts of a four inch grid. The 8" grid takes 1/4 but limits the setting options. I believe the offset grid is probably the best option for most walls unless you want to set holds super dense.

8'x10' and 60 degrees overhanging. Almost entirely pad-or-less crimps and small pinches.

Rocco wrote:

8'x10' and 60 degrees overhanging. Almost entirely pad-or-less crimps and small pinches.

Nice efficient use of a small space, looks like a good board on which to get wicked strong. But how do you warmup? Also it that a rally car in the background? :)

Tavis Ricksecker wrote:

Nice efficient use of a small space, looks like a good board on which to get wicked strong. But how do you warmup? Also it that a rally car in the background? :)

Thanks. I've had several home walls over the years and they have all been similar in dimension and always the same angle. Sixty degrees is about my limit for holding flat edges, so I like to train there so not everything has to be incut. I always have two lines on bigger holds that are around V4/5 to start my warm up. It would be possible to make easier problems, but I try to keep high profile holds off the wall cause they get in the way a lot.

Not a rally car, but close. It's my old Hillclimb/Time Attack car.

Nice man, I wish I were strong enough to warm up on v4/v5 lol it would make routesetting a lot simpler.

Tavis Ricksecker wrote:

My walls have a 4" grid and not every t nut gets used. It can get quite dense with holds and if you don't have boatloads of holds you probably don't need it this dense. Bolts are all 3/8" I believe and the bolt size depends on the size of the holds, usually when you order holds they will tell you the numbers and measurements for the bolts that you need to go with your order. Commonly 1.5", 2", 2.5", larger holds like slopers need 3" or more. Giant feature holds and bolt on volumes can require up to 10-12" bolts which are quite expensive.

Ok thanks!

Seth Bleazard wrote:

Ok thanks!

My best recommendation is the offset grid described above! Good luck building and have fun!

Optimistic wrote:

-standard bolt as far as I know is 3/8"-16. Half inch is I believe standard for the hole for the T-nut. Treat yourself to a nice sharp new bit, it's a lot of drilling. 

I used a 7/16 bit for the T-nut holes (4-prong style). They fit perfectly. 

The Escape site does say to use a 1/2" bit for the industrial t-nuts, though, if you go that route: escapeclimbing.com/collecti…; 

Nkane 1 wrote:

I used a 7/16 bit for the T-nut holes (4-prong style). They fit perfectly. 

The Escape site does say to use a 1/2" bit for the industrial t-nuts, though, if you go that route: escapeclimbing.com/collecti…  

I used a 7/16 bit (and escape tnuts) as well.

Rocco wrote:

8'x10' and 60 degrees overhanging. Almost entirely pad-or-less crimps and small pinches.

I think I got stronger just looking at that thing.. 

Finally got all the holds on the wall after full reset at the buddy's garage, getting close to resetting (new tape) the warmup curcuit problems I think.

Ladies and Gentlemen....

Introducing....

The Nursery.

Moonboard 2017 setup. Adjustable 40* or 25*. Original Schoolroom holds (not set yet in this picture), and sets A, B, and C. Plus jugs to facilitate warmups and endurance.

Winch setup and one of the lower chain anchors (the aluminum locking carabiner has subsequently been swapped out for steel and a quicklink added for better maneuverability): The chains redirect through beefy shackles at the top of the uprights so that you can adjust the angle without climbing up. This is one aspect that I might consider changing: pulling the chain through the shackle is pretty noisy and annoying.

Beefy T-hinges attach to a 2x12 that acts as the kicker:

I stacked and clamped the plywood (ACX 23/32") and used a drill press to do the t-nut holes, using the Moonboard grid plus an offset 20cm grid to add additional holes and maybe LEDs someday:
Uprights are concreted 3.5' down. Diagonal supports are dug 2 feet down and backfilled with quikcrete. All lumber is brown pressure treated. I may add additional bracing to tie the diagonals back to the uprights to complete the triangle. Although as it stands there's very little flex in the structure.
My wife aced the artwork:

I used stainless 4-prong t-nuts. This photo shows the cable attachment to the middle joist (the attachment subsequently has been moved to the top plate to accommodate a tarp, and sometime later will accommodate roofing.). The framing is 2x6s, carefully measured to avoid t-nuts.
Many, many, many, thanks to Greg Koeppen, Monty, Kevin Stricker, and all others who've contributed to this thread. It wouldn't have happened without you all.

Now I just have to build calluses for the brand new Moon holds. Bay area climbers, dm me if you want to come play.

Thanks for all the advice I've been given over the years. Here she is, months in the making:

Nkane 1 wrote: Ladies and Gentlemen....

Introducing....

The Nursery.

Nice, robust build, although some of those t-nuts look like they need to be hammered in more flush to prevent future spinners.  Otherwise, well done!

Doug Lintz wrote:

Nice, robust build, although some of those t-nuts look like they need to be hammered in more flush to prevent future spinners.  Otherwise, well done!

t nuts only hammer in so far......when he puts holds on them, they will pull in the rest of the way. you always have to be careful first time you use a hole so you dont knock the t nut out. 

i just looked, i agree, few do look a bit far out......

I recycled mine for future generations