2019-2020 Utah Ice Conditions Thread

Have the routes at Maple improved recently?

They got worse and now are a bit better than a few weeks ago...some classic routes need the next week of precip then sunny with cold clear nights...here's hoping The Great White Gangbang crowds don't bash them to pieces before they get a chance. 

Went to Maple yesterday- get whacked is hanging in there, bowling... was pretty fat. Nothing was in in Box canyon, but lots of things were close. Fingers crossed for some colder weather. 

what are you talking about ^^ ? At least 3 routes were climbed in box yesterday.

Ah well,  "In" is subjective. Didn't see anyone else in there.  What did you climb? 

We were on Sandbagger and Cobbler Cruncher on Sat. Other were on Tennis Shoes. That said we did not do the last 10 feet Cobbler Cruncher. 

Passed through Joes today.  Sun baking much of the ice there.  Soloed CCC and saw a party on Deadbolt which looked good.  The pics are: CCC, The Amp and Spear.

This was in Zion on Sun., not really climbable, but still cool to see.

Rob, I was up on Deadbolt with my wife and her family.  It was in and fun to climb but was a little brittle and had the whole cauliflower bumps all over it which made adding good protection tough until we set up a top rope on top.  

Sadly Maple is getting thin...Maple Syrup was hanging in there...upper dagger was creaking and thoroughly unprotectable so we bailed off the bolt.

If ya'll have not heard by now or seen it (or been on it multiple times already) but a Wasatch classic has formed for the first time in a decade.

I was wondering when someone would mention that ^^^ . Figured anyone who cared had heard and probably climbed it already and if you hadn't (or don't know what Angel of Fear is and are a Utah ice climber) then you weren't ready. It is not a WI5 even with the amount of traffic it has seen.  

The climbing on A of F right now is superb, it should still be in for another week, but start early.

Anyone checked out Frozen Assets lately? Looked like lower pitches could have been in from I-15 last week... 

We got on it today. The climb is on the way out unfortunately. We climbed 5 pitches up having to do variations to get around pitches 1 and 2. Pitch 6 was dry and brittle so we rapped off.

Looking for a partner for the NE Face of Storm Mountain in BCC for either this Friday 2/28 or Saturday 2/29. I just did an ascent of the pfeiff North Ridge, snow and ice conditions were really good at upper elevation so the conditions on the face should be prime. Send me a message if you're interested in getting in a classic alpine route. 6095764980

Edit: Wasatch snow forecast is calling for no new snow this week aside from an inch or two so conditions should stay stable throughout the weekend.

Thanks Mulch...guess we still might head down Wednesday early AM as temps tonight and tomorrow stay in the teens...

Although I don't live in Utah anymore I thought I'd share.

https://www.patagonia.com/stories/the-song-remains-the-same/story-75253.html 

Brilliant little story by Andy for Patagonia.  It features some wonderful people recreating an event that has impacted anyone who would be reading this.  Enjoy. 

I found a pair of gloves at the Apron this morning. Tell me what color they are and I'll get them back to ya!

Dave Budge wrote: Although I don't live in Utah anymore I thought I'd share.

https://www.patagonia.com/stories/the-song-remains-the-same/story-75253.html 

Brilliant little story by Andy for Patagonia.  It features some wonderful people recreating an event that has impacted anyone who would be reading this.  Enjoy. 

Great story!  

Couple of possible errors...photo of the Northwall Zero says its a Chouinard-Frost (photo caption below).  Also, I don't believe you could get a Northwall Zero in 1975.

"The Chouinard-Frost and the Chouinard Zero (hidden from view) with their straight wooden shafts, swinging again in Andy’s hands."

Picky picky...ha ha.  Thanks, Dave!