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2019-2020 Utah Ice Conditions Thread

Original Post
chris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 10

Surprised this hasn't been started yet.  I've seen the GWI start to form and fall off, a couple smears in the Hogum Z gullies area...  Alpine ice in?  Uintas, Wasatch (northerm, central and Provo area), Spanish Fork, Joe's?

Santiago Vega Castro · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 5

Saw someone soloing on provo canyon 2 weekends ago, looked thin but solid.

Sean McLane · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2014 · Points: 1,123

Reid’s Peak had no ice at all yesterday. It seemed too cold for ice to form even with plenty of snow. Put in an approach trail and did Golden Spike as a full mixed route anyway.  

Jim Clarke · · Summit Park, UT · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 76

We might want to consider updating the title for this thread to 2019-2020 Utah Ice Conditions Thread to avoid confusion, make for an easy search and so another one doesn't start...hope to check out Cobblerest this week...lot of stuff formed in CO and MT...we're due!

Mulch · · Wrightstown, NJ · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 267

Hey if you're down to get out in mill b south fork to climb sundial falls and maybe search around for anything else in that fork this weekend give me a call or shoot me a text 6095764980

NatejWeber · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 20

Hi all, I’m a total Utah ice newb. Where does one begin? guidebook? good area for WI4s or multi? fb page? what’s close to SLC?Thanks and really looking forward to visiting soon!!! 

Will s · · Salt Lake CIty, UT · Joined May 2017 · Points: 0
greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 237

This weekend was a productive weekend for Utah ice climbers.   Quite a bit of stuff in, unfortunately a lot is going to go away with this warm high pressure system.

Gregory Cooper · · Mount Pleasant, UT · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 1,650

On my way back from Joes Valley on Saturday up the 31 on the right hand side was a really nice frozen waterfall. I'm not familiar with ice climbing so I can't give you anymore information about it.

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 237

That would be the dirtcicle Gregory.

I was glad to see it in after wondering if drought or water flow changes were gonna keep it from coming in again like last year.  

NatejWeber · · Vancouver, WA · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 20

What will be in this weekend do y’all think?

Mulch · · Wrightstown, NJ · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 267

Sundial falls up in big cottonwood is a guarantee, everything else not so much

climb 2 smile · · Draper, UT · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 175

Cobble Creek Falls was fat wet hero ice on Sunday 11/10


P2 was very wet left to middle, right side the best
Gary Barnes · · Herriman, UT · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 45

Sundial Falls still good to go on 11-11.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B4v3ATqn6Q4/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

climb 2 smile · · Draper, UT · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 175

Hard To Find Falls on Sunday 11/17 in great shape.

Susan Sims · · Utah · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0
So the main line on the Apron of Stairway To Heaven is replaced and the chains are extended and equalized. The anchor materials are stainless, but the chains are not. The WLL on the chain is 5600 lbs. though so it should do for awhile. Just keep in mind that the right hanger will have to be excavated from the ice from now on as it's recessed back in the shelf. Thanks to Thomas and Dustin for helping out.
Jim Clarke · · Summit Park, UT · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 76

Thanks for all the hard work Susan, Thomas and Dustin! Fine effort. 

Thomas G. · · SLC, UT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 195

Thank you Susan, (other) Thomas, and Dustin!! Great work!!

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 620

Climbed on Reids Peak in the Uintas yesterday. As evidenced in the photo below, "Golden Spike" and "The One Who Knocks" were both totally dry. We climbed a line to the right that I put in the database as "Sunshine Chimney," but we found a couple fixed pins and carabiners that seemed to indicate that at the very least the first couple pitches of what we climbed have been rappelled if nothing else. If anyone has more info, I'd be happy to have it and will update the entry.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/118090799/sunshine-chimney

Susan Sims · · Utah · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0
Sundial Falls is delaminated on the first pitch. Screws are punching through the back and it's completely hollow. Best to wait until after this storm cycle to try this one.
greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 237
Susan Sims wrote:
Sundial Falls is delaminated on the first pitch. Screws are punching through the back and it's completely hollow. Best to wait until after this storm cycle to try this one.

We were up there Saturday morning and passed on it.  Looked awful 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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