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Finger Strength Training: Which type is best?

Original Post
David Shuer · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0

Hey all. I'm doing my third cycle of RCTM and am in the beginning of another hangboard phase. Over the past few months, I've been easing away from full crimping and towards building better open hand strength. That said, my 3F drag and open 4F drag are now stronger than my half crimp and comparable to my full crimp. That said, I made this transition with the understanding that open-grips are less prone to injury, and am hoping to get some insight on potential disadvantages of this protocol. I've heard rumors about open-grip training leading to more wrist injuries instead of pulley injuries, so I'd love to get some more clarity on the matter.

Zachary Winters · · Winthrop, WA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 430

I'm no expert in the matter, far from it, but I've been training mostly open grip and some half crimp (no full crimp) and have made good gains with zero pulley or wrist injuries. RCTM says it's best to be as angle specific as possible (within 15° I think) but for me it's more important to be able to try hard and be injury free. 

Daniel Melnyk · · Covina · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 50

I’ve heard that on slopers (which use open hand grip), it is important to do wrist strengthening. There is also a video with Tom Randall, where he talks about how important half crimp is. I think it’s on the lattice youtube page

David Shuer · · Seattle, WA · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 0
Daniel Melnyk wrote: I’ve heard that on slopers (which use open hand grip), it is important to do wrist strengthening. There is also a video with Tom Randall, where he talks about how important half crimp is. I think it’s on the lattice youtube page

Could you link this video? I did some digging and couldn't track it down.

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 406

Lattice advice​​​

JaredG · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 17

I'm no expert, but I'd say if you're gonna climb crimps, you should train crimps.  Some holds out in the real world more-or-less require a crimp.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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