Most Sandbagged Route You’ve Seen

Roy Boy wrote: The pink route in the corner, V1 IYG.

V12 at your gym

Purple Haze at Lover's Leap. Hardest 10d in existence. 

Buck Rio wrote:

They are only hard the first time because they aren't obvious.  

I would add the exit move out of the "Cozy Hang" on the Dome in BoCan is a pretty stiff 5.7+ if you haven't done the moves before. 

Oh come on, even I onsighted that pitch. Haven't  - you know, in a while, but that's just because I have forgotten the rest of the pitches on the Owl.

Buck Rio wrote:

They are only hard the first time because they aren't obvious.  

I would add the exit move out of the "Cozy Hang" on the Dome in BoCan is a pretty stiff 5.7+ if you haven't done the moves before. 

I couldn't agree more on both counts.  You can make these pretty hard if you don't find the right sequence, otherwise...meh.

Dirty Jim wrote:

I couldn't agree more on both counts.  You can make these pretty hard if you don't find the right sequence, otherwise...meh.

Totally....but a budding 5.7 leader may not be able to see the sequence like you or I can.  Well, the cave exit is mandatory 5.8 just to get there...

Fritz Nuffer wrote: Rednekk Justus 5.10+++ outside GJ. Splitter orange Metolius, slightly steeper than vertical. I personally find it just as hard as Swedin-Ringle 5.12-

Even if you have sausage fingers and unlock the kneejam no-hands rest, it’s still a knife fight and a half to get to the chains.

This thing is laughably sandbagged and so very, very hard. Also, you forgot to mention all the bird shit that exists in that pod that you can perhaps finagle a rest in.  I think it was weeks before the skin on my knuckles went back to normal after the one and only time I hopped on it. Now I just walk by it and giggle at its ridiculousness. 

The Angler in Joe's at V2
Full Cavity search in Indian Creek at 5.10+

If we go with the apparent historical rating of 5.8, I nominate The Pooper at Devils Lake.

To quote the great Tradiban himself: "Oh god. I hated this climb. I tried for an OS and was totally punched in the balls by this sandbag."

Consensus now seems to be solid DL 5.10a.

+1 for Seneca being sandbagged!

First pitch of Gandalf's Grip @ Broughton Bluff   My first trad lead.  When I told someone that, they responded with, "Was your friend trying to kill you?"
First pitch of Loose Block Overhand @ Broughton Bluff
Classic Crack @ Broughton Bluff  
Gorilla Love Affair @ Broughton Bluff    I think it's finally been given a grade bump, though.
Two Step Right @ Trout Creek    Thought it was considerably harder than Gold Rush or Two Step Left, both which have a harder listed grade.  

I haven't climbed a ton of places, but I've heard from folks that have that Broughton stacks up with the best sandbagging areas in the country.  

Crack of fear

Some of the V0s in Yosemite Camp 4.

White punks on dope is an “exciting” 5.8. Igor unchained generally feels like a notch harder than open book, but maybe that’s why it gets a “+”. Commitment feels relatively easier than Igor or open book, for 5.9. Pratt’s crack may be a bit tough for 5.9. A couple seasons in and I can’t tell if I’m getting more objective in assessing grades or less. Reeds pitch 2 is probably harder than any one pitch on open book. 

Josh McMillan wrote: Some of the V0s in Yosemite Camp 4.

So true 

the guide books all like“Start on the jug” and then you’re all like “that’s a crap polished sloper with no good feet stupid guidebook!”

I’ll throw in the lamplighter pitch in index 10c but harder than the 11b pitch above it.

Also Mickey’s mantle in Leavenworth next to classic crack hardest 5.7 I’ve ever climbed.

If you’re from the Maine/nh area any randy baker route should make you think before getting on it...

My vote goes to Circus Trick at Big Bend Boulders outside of Moab--a V4 I'll probably never be able to do, so polished. Maybe the 5.9+ variation pitch on upper cathedral spire

How about Athletes Feat on Castle Rock in Boulder canyon? First "5.11"  in Colorado. But the sketchy mantle in pitch one is harder than any part on Country Club Crack. Not to mention the rest of the pitches are no joke. 

Paul L wrote: First pitch of Gandalf's Grip @ Broughton Bluff   My first trad lead.  When I told someone that, they responded with, "Was your friend trying to kill you?"
First pitch of Loose Block Overhand @ Broughton Bluff
Classic Crack @ Broughton Bluff  
Gorilla Love Affair @ Broughton Bluff    I think it's finally been given a grade bump, though.
Two Step Right @ Trout Creek    Thought it was considerably harder than Gold Rush or Two Step Left, both which have a harder listed grade.  

I haven't climbed a ton of places, but I've heard from folks that have that Broughton stacks up with the best sandbagging areas in the country.  

Uh Gandalfs is 9+ which is no sandbag. Just 9+... but whoever got you on it as a first trad lead is an asshole and not your friend.

Classic crack is 9 no matter how bad your ego wants it to be harder.

As for GLA is a 10d by other Broughtons climb standards.

Sounds like your getting the smackdown from that basalt! Keep climbing there you will come around on the grading. 

Pinched Rib in JT when it was rated 5.7.