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Routes in 3 - The Frigate

Bowspirit T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Can Can T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Code of the Sea TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Dutchman T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Frigate "walk off" T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Galleass T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jasek's Project T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jib, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Pooper, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stern, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed route 20 T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
When Life Gives You Lemons...SQUEEZE THEM TO DEATH! T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,738 total · 9/month
Shared By: Craig McCudden on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

If you use Spider Mitts you're going A0

It's tape or nothin'

One of the hardest 8's you'll ever climb

Protection

There is a good pin near the start & then it goes standard rack

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Maybe the biggest sandbag at the lake??? Nov 15, 2006
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.10
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.10
Better than it looks.

Looking at it from the base, you figure the traverse will be the crux. The traverse is height and wingspan dependent. Finding the right crimps could be tough. Once you have the hand jams, you think its over ... think again! Jul 5, 2007
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
5.10a
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
5.10a
how can this climb get a 5.8 rating??!!!! this is the hardest 8 in the world!! on my first attempt and failure......i was told it was a 10, that traverse isn't easy people. Jul 6, 2007
Tradiban
  5.10a
Tradiban  
  5.10a
Oh god. I hated this climb. I tried for an OS and was totally punched in the balls by this sandbag. The traverse to the vert crack is totally height dependent, I was fine but anyone shorter than 6ft is screwed. Then, locking off hard with no feet, I went for a jam, which was solid but hurt like hell on which I fell.
I TR'd it by laybacking the vert crack but that would have required placing the gear blind. AND THEN, I sliced up my knees in the chimney above.
Oh, did I mention that the whole thing was slimy today. I thought it looked cool, but it climbs poorly.
Fuck this pile of poop. Aug 25, 2009
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
Rhoads, try the Direct, hard 12 and way more fun. Aug 26, 2009
Tradiban
  5.10a
Tradiban  
  5.10a
Ok, lead it today and found the good hold in the back of the crack, not as bad as I originally thought.

What the direct Trav? Straight up the face to the crack? Apr 30, 2010
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
From the big triangle hole continue straight up and a little left (dont traverse right). From what I remember there is a little rest at the horizontal break half way up, then a second crux right at the end. I remember thinking this had such a definitive end. You go from small crimps to a huge jug and then topout, almost like bouldering at the dodge. Apr 30, 2010
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
Lead this yesterday. No route has made me bleed more than this one. First I split the back of a couple fingers trying to jam my fingertips into the horizontal seam for the traverse, then the crux hand jam took a good chunk out of the back of my hand. Anyway, I thought this was a good well-protected lead after I made sure the traverse had adequate pro for my tastes on TR. Sep 19, 2010
Tradiban
  5.10a
Tradiban  
  5.10a
If you use the right arete and bump your left hand up the crack this becomes incredibly easy except for a balancy traverse left at the end of the crack. Oct 7, 2011
Aawait
  5.9+
Aawait  
  5.9+
I really enjoyed this climb! After leading this a few separate times with a fall at the crux I became determined to send clean. Placing a cam where I wasn't trying to jam my hand and the discovery a decent left foot hold (around a foot above the horizontal) helped me get it done. Sep 25, 2012
Remo
Madison, WI
  5.10a
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.10a
This is a really good lead. Hard 9 or 10a I would have to say. Oct 18, 2015

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