Am I too tall? (Or is this a weight question in disguise? Will MP make a pinata of me?)
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The background: I'm a shade over 6 feet and 185 pounds, been climbing 20 years. I redpointed my first 12a's after 4 years of climbing, and got to V6 bouldering pretty soon after (outside, i mean). I plateaued at 12a for a few years before life events (3 kids, marriage, aging, excuses, being soft) dropped me back to mid 5-11 sport, though i still climb V6s. |
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Adam Ondra is 6'1". |
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https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/117347945/grades-information-gathering-and-leading-near-your-limit-as-a-shorttallnon-avera
A long thread on short vs. tall that you'll wish you never started reading. :) |
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In general, I think that being tall is still an advantage at least up into 5.13 territory and as Mark says, Adam Ondra is over 6 foot. In general, height is not a limiting factor for climbing 5.12. However, strength and your BMI matter quite a lot for climbing harder grades. I have to break it to you, but your height isn't what is holding you back. |
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The perfect height for a climber is 2 inches taller! end of story. never met a climber who would for real trade their extra reach for mine.. |
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Dylan Demyanek wrote: In general, I think that being tall is still an advantage at least up into 5.13 territory and as Mark says, Adam Ondra is over 6 foot. In general, height is not a limiting factor for climbing 5.12. However, strength and your BMI matter quite a lot for climbing harder grades. I have to break it to you, but your height isn't what is holding you back. I'm hoping to hear from people 6 feet and up who send 5-12 and 5-13. All the people I've met who climb those grades are under 6 feet. Just looking for validation or refutation of that, maybe. But honestly I'll drop names of hard Oregon climbers I have seen in person who are nowhere near 6 feet. Alan Watts, Ryan Palo, Gary Rall, Micah Klesick, Mark Deffenbaugh, Tom Scales, Dave Sowerby, Jim Ablao, Aaron Webb, Wil Nazarian, Matt Spohn, Jeff Walker, Jason from WA who put up some 12s at Ozone, Mikey Shaefer from Fre Solo doing 13s at Trout Creek and Viento and I think he''s maybe under 5-6? I have no list of hard Oregon climbers over 6 feet. (Tim Olson might be 6 foot?) Oregon climbers help me out here. |
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Oh it's all about pulleys and levers, IMHO. Not only overall height and weight as well but how long limbs and individual parts of limbs are. Plus genetics of course. look at Alex Megos, skinny little legs, light (57 kilos or something) but full of muscle with MASSIVE pecs too; I've never seen a climber with such large pecs. |
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Ape index is what you should be concerned with. Are you a gorilla or a T rex? |
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You must be less than 5'12" to climb 5.12 |
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The Op is 6ft and 185. its a weight thing. not a height thing. some of the elite MMA fighters are 6-1 and 140 lbs. I am 5.9 and 185. Old and fat.. My shodan test I was 20 something years old and ripped @ 160 lbs but still carrying too much weight to be an elite sport climber. I could probably be a pretty decent old climber if I lost 20 lbs and stayed injury free... |
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This might be relevant: |
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Being very tall is not ideal, and I am only 5’6” (though my ability is at chuffer level), but I personally know two guys who are over 6’5” and have sent .13. I also had a regular partner who was 6’2” and 140 lbs. He was very strong. |
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Tony Redford wrote: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/117347945/grades-information-gathering-and-leading-near-your-limit-as-a-shorttallnon-avera When I'm ready to conk out tonight I'll start in on this. Probably even commented on it 10 times but forgot. |
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Additionally, if you boulder legit v6, you should be able to reliably send .12+. |
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First impression of feedback. Some people are tall AND climb hard BUT they are EXTREMELY thin. |
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I am 6'5" and I agree with your assessment that it helps up until about mid 11's. I am not a 5.12 climber so I cant really speak to how it affects .12's and above. |
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the schmuck wrote: Additionally, if you boulder legit v6, you should be able to reliably send .12+. Totally different subject (and kinda true, I agree) but i worked for those 6s (some over multiple days, not just a session) and I've never gotten into projecting routes. I sent all my 12a routes in well under 5 tries. I never got into projecting once i found trad and developing routes. |
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The strongest climber in the world is taller than you. Stop making excuses.
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You didn't really climb 5.12, for people over 5'11" that route is 5.10 |
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https://cdn2.apstatic.com/forum/124202.jpg
Ya gotta work with what you've got. That's my hand (4'11") on the hand of a climber way taller than you. I will say, I think being on the way too short side is easier than the far too tall end, for life in general, but, so what, for climbing. It simply is. Best of luck to both of us! I highly doubt I'll be on 5.12 ever....but, I am generally game to try anything a rope gun puts up, on top rope, so who knows? Besides, I'm willing to climb ice, so that puts me in elite badassery territory. Or nuts. Best, Helen |
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3 kids and wife is too many for 5.12 |