Static and movement economy are not synonymous. Static means that at any point you can come full stop, if you're doing that you're wasting a LOT of energy. Your hips should be moving and helping you to flow up the wall, think of a falling leaf (but moving upwards). If you do a hard stop between movements and are going between holds slowly you might feel like you're climbing better because you're constantly in control, but on steeper terrain you're likely leaving a few letter grades on the table.
If you mean "keep your feet on when you can" I wouldn't disagree. I also don't think it's a bad idea for someone climbing in the 5.10 range to practice moving exceptionally slow because they will start to get a better appreciation of body positioning. That said it's not a style one should lock in to for everything.
Most new climbers lunge for holds, over reaching or dynamically going for moves; wasting precious energy by having to overgrip the next hold.
Climbing statically doesn’t mean you’re moving slow; it means making deliberate movement without throwing or using excess motions. It means using footwork to get you high enough and balanced so you simply extend your arm and tap the hold.
I would never suggest anyone stop in the middle of climbing unless you’re resting. Maybe I’m using the word statically wrong? If so I apologize. Pace of climbing is very important overall. Move as fast as you can while maintaining technique.
Lots of good advice so far. Did not see climbing with people that are better than you. Breaking into 5.11's is usually more of a technique thing if your already a decently fit person. Climbing with partners that are better then you will allow you to learn from them, see their beta, body position and how to do certain moves more efficient or with better technique.
Static and movement economy are not synonymous. Static means that at any point you can come full stop, if you're doing that you're wasting a LOT of energy. Your hips should be moving and helping you to flow up the wall, think of a falling leaf (but moving upwards). If you do a hard stop between movements and are going between holds slowly you might feel like you're climbing better because you're constantly in control, but on steeper terrain you're likely leaving a few letter grades on the table.
If you mean "keep your feet on when you can" I wouldn't disagree. I also don't think it's a bad idea for someone climbing in the 5.10 range to practice moving exceptionally slow because they will start to get a better appreciation of body positioning. That said it's not a style one should lock in to for everything.
Most beginners see so much "progress" quickly (from 5easy to 5.10* or V0 to V3) they expect things to proceed as normal, but instead hit a plateau.
I've been there, I remember the feeling of wanting to progress and seeing all these other strong climbers around me and WISHING I were as strong or stronger.
The reason why others are stronger is because they earned every bit of it. You can get there too, but not without LOTS of effort. No one here can tell you the magic move to perform or metal state to be in to send Vhard/5hard, you have to get there by yourself.
Climbing is about self improvement in every way. Figure out what works for you and do it.
Most new climbers lunge for holds, over reaching or dynamically going for moves; wasting precious energy by having to overgrip the next hold.
Climbing statically doesn’t mean you’re moving slow; it means making deliberate movement without throwing or using excess motions. It means using footwork to get you high enough and balanced so you simply extend your arm and tap the hold.
I would never suggest anyone stop in the middle of climbing unless you’re resting. Maybe I’m using the word statically wrong? If so I apologize. Pace of climbing is very important overall. Move as fast as you can while maintaining technique.
Didn't listen to the whole Mani the Monkey thing to pick up on his thoughts. Basically true static movement means that you're at a point of control and balance throughout the move, if you wanted to you *could* stop yourself. I totally agree with you on novice climbers overshooting things and trying to use momentum at the wrong time.
Basically what you put in the last sentence is a way of putting it I totally agree with, when it comes to red pointing or onsighting you want to move as fluidly and quickly as the holds/movement allows. Sometimes you have to slow it way down to precisely get on a dime edge and engage the right way though (not as applicable at 5.10).
This really isn't applicable until higher grades, but you can do a "dead point" where you're going between holds using momentum, but you are precise in that you arrive with your hand hovering over the next hold with a feeling of weightlessness. With the proper amount of momentum, good position and high core tension at that "apex" you can establish on the next hold precisely with no need to readjust and far less pressure on the locked off hand. This is easier to do on steep to slightly overhanging terrain.
Here are a couple old clips on the moonboard, first two are fall of 2017, total lack of core tension, poorly aimed direction of hips, bad timing hitting hold with the right hand. Third clip is early spring 2018 doing a harder start hold into the same movement, the right hand bump is a pretty good example of a dead point. I timed it well so that I had time to establish on the crimp and I could hold the tension just long enough to really engage my lats before my feet cut. Ignore the re-adjustments of hands/feet above, that was the first time sending the problem and I've had to work on not allowing myself to readjust for ages now (also note, good example that we're all always learning)
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