help identifying gear

Hexes came in factory-drilled (what I had) and DIY versions (using the template supplied by Chouinard).

I see that someone else has raided my basement museum collection!

Gunkiemike, the drilled holes on sc thomas' collection seems to be slightly different from these Hexentrics.

nutstory wrote: This Chouinard drilled hex template for #11 is different from sc thomas' collection

My recollection is that the original hexcentrics were undrilled. People started drilling lightening holes in the hollow sizes which is when Chouinard created the drilling templates. It was a year or two after that when Chouinard started drilling them in the factory. Drilled and undrilled weren't available simultaneously from Chouinard but both styles could be found in gear shops until supply of the undrilled versions was exhausted.

SC Thomas' collection looks like maybe they were from before the template was offered. Notice that the holes on the #9 are misaligned on the short face.

Sawyer W wrote:

Oooo buddy that sounds exciting 

Actually a biner brake rappel was SOP BITD. And a skill that climbers today should still learn. People drop belay/rap devices frequently and then cannot rappel. I know of accidents because of this inability. When I taught one person this skill who was recovering from an accident because he lacked a device and fell jury-rigging something I could see his regrets because he could have done such a rappel and avoided the accident. 

For the OP, second image, the two pins are Leeper Z pitons, the hook is an early Chouinard Cliff Hanger. Last image, Logan Sky Hook made by Ed Leeper (on blue webbing).

The Hexcentrics are the "off set" version, which came after the "symetrical / a perfect hexagon" original version. The "offset" (i.e. a-symetrical) held better in really parallel cracks.  Still perfectly safe to use once re-slung with new cord. The wire nuts....probably as good as they were when new (if not rust, etc) but who knows what Quality Control they had???

The pitons you could probably sell in any one of the climbing consignments shops around. Folks who go into the alpine Mtns still use them on occasion. Bongs...not so much.

The oval biners...great as "leave-r" biners.

Appreciate all of the info. Thank you nutstory for the photo overlay :)  I was thrilled to meet the climber who used this gear and hear some tales of leader falls in the time of the leader must not fall. 

Great find, pristine trad rack circa 1976 - 78. The skyhook cracks me up, not even welded shut...

kgray wrote: Great find, pristine trad rack circa 1976 - 78. The skyhook cracks me up, not even welded shut...

At that time, skyhooks were never envisioned to hold any kind of fall - strictly body weight only placements - hence you'd never need the extra manufacturing of adding a weld.

Thank you nutstory for the photo overlay :)

You are welcome  ;-)

Nice collection. I’m mystified why anyone would buy two Tetons. Probably bought them at the same time before realizing how much they suck.

I miss the days of struggling to pull perlon through tiny stoppers. 

Ah...talking about the "good old days"; those 2 Salewa ice screws .....they were considered the first ice screw that even might hold a fall.  They were used "back in the days" when if "the leader doesn't fall on rock, then the leader NEVER fell on ice! "  We used them mostly for belays.  Had to use axe pick to screw them in (like the first generation Chouinard screws that followed)

It was quite impossible to get the ice out of the core*.  One of the jobs of being a second in those days, after removing the belay screw, was he/she would put the screw inside their parka, close to the shirt-layer until the ice started to melt, then shake it out.

* In fact, the great inovation of the Chouinard screw was that the "biting teeth" had an inner core that was slightly smaller than the diameter of the tube's core, thus allowing the ice to be shaken out the top of the screw after removal. Only later would it be discovered that the real holding power is the threads themselves. For the first 15-20 years we continued to put them in the "wrong" way, with a 10-15-degree slant uphill ( i.e. about 30 degrees "wrong")  

Your Robbins carabiner is tubular, not many of them in circulation.

chirag khanna wrote: Thanks for this post . It's really informative and amazing.
https://deltapapermachines.com/paper-napkin-packing-machine/

Perfect demographic for that ad, very well targeted marketing

Tom Stryker wrote: Your Robbins carabiner is tubular, not many of them in circulation.

I'm pretty sure I have a couple, didn't Chouinard and LaPrade also make hollow bodies?

mario molina wrote:

I'm pretty sure I have a couple, didn't Chouinard and LaPrade also make hollow bodies?

Chouinard...from the 1978 catalog:

mario molina wrote:

I'm pretty sure I have a couple, didn't Chouinard and LaPrade also make hollow bodies?

Maybe Simond as well?

Brian in SLC wrote:

Chouinard...from the 1978 catalog:

I worked for The Cobbler at the time these came out. The first ones we saw we torture tested by clipping it to a long sling, opening the gate and setting the nose on the top of a sturdy door, then standing on the sling. With just a slight bounce it exploded into pieces. That image always stuck with me. And look at the price! (Mind you, at the time a pitcher of beer is a buck and a half, full price.) I think the Chouinard Featherweights replaced these a year or two later.

All collectors items, most of it looks near museum quality and unused. Marty Karabin and Stephan should be able to give you an idea what its worth and also a decent offer $$ and try to preserve the stuff. Your Jumars look showroom!