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Andrew Rice
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Dec 1, 2019
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Jan 2016
· Points: 11
Singular. Or single.
Ie. I climb all the time on a single rope. If that rope fails, because it's not redundant, I'm going to be shit out of luck.
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Nick Goldsmith
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Dec 1, 2019
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NEK
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 470
This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.
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Colonel Mustard
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Dec 1, 2019
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Sacramento, CA
· Joined Sep 2005
· Points: 1,257
Nick Goldsmith wrote: D bag comment
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Carl Schneider
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Dec 1, 2019
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Mount Torrens, South Australia
· Joined Dec 2017
· Points: 0
Clint Cummins wrote: Dependent, but there's probably a better word.
Can we have the option of using two words? What about "critically dependent"?
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Jace K
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Dec 1, 2019
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Englewood, CO
· Joined Oct 2019
· Points: 70
As a structural engineer:
1. Fracture critical 2. Determinant (as opposed to indeterminate)
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sgt.sausage
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Dec 1, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2013
· Points: 0
Ryan Dresser wrote: UNdundant. Dundant
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rgold
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Dec 1, 2019
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Poughkeepsie, NY
· Joined Feb 2008
· Points: 526
Dave K wrote: In the OP configuration, having two bolts is actually worse than having only one.
Is there a way to create an anchor where having three is worse than having two? I can't think of a way to do that. I believe you would need a sling with three ends... Three pieces in a horizontal line with one of the outside pieces sketchy, rigged with a cordelette in the usual way is, or might be, worse than just the two better pieces.
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brian n
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Dec 1, 2019
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Manchester, WA
· Joined Sep 2016
· Points: 87
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Marc801 C
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Dec 1, 2019
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Sandy, Utah
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 65
FrankPS wrote: So if you don't put the rope through the ring, that's a problem? Huh? What does this even mean?
Um, maybe a better example would help spur conversation. The setup in the photo is absurd. Isn't that the entire point?
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Nate Ball
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Dec 1, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2010
· Points: 13,256
Shiny stainless steel bolts in good rock don't fail*. But if we're running with the idea that untarnished stainless steel could spontaneously fail, why couldn't a properly-threaded rappel ring fail? Heck, why couldn't your rope, or belay loop, or belay device fail? Maybe your spine gives way and you simply snap in half in an unexpected slip on the sidewalk?
The opposite of redundant is spending way too much time worrying about all the ways you could die because of random equipment failure. In reality, it's your own lack of attention to detail that will end you. Not the succinct answer you were looking for, I'm sure.
* = SCC
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Carolina
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Dec 2, 2019
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Front Range NC
· Joined Nov 2010
· Points: 20
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Tim Stich
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Dec 2, 2019
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,516
Ryan Dresser wrote: UNdundant. We're not doing that! It's UNDUNDANT!!!!111
I LIKE IT.
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FrankPS
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Dec 2, 2019
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
Marc801 C wrote: Huh? What does this even mean?
Isn't that the entire point? As you (should) know, several/most items in climbing are not redundant. The belay loop, rope, etc. So that seems like a reasonable topic. Discussing an incorrect setup, such as in the photo, isn't as much an issue of redundancy, but of incompetence and inexperience.
Anyway, those were my thoughts. You are free to continue to argue it.
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Sam Skovgaard
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Dec 2, 2019
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Port Angeles, WA
· Joined Oct 2017
· Points: 208
Props to Dave K (I was hoping a systems engineer would weigh in!) and Tammy Gueterman, they get it.
As the OP, I'm officially declaring "anti-redundant" as the winner. Nice work, Tammy.
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Tzilla Rapdrilla
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Dec 2, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 970
Sam Skovgaard wrote: For everyone else having trouble keeping up, I'll make things more clear. 1)Yes, this pictured setup IS absurd, that's my point. This pic actually comes from the Un-Belay-vable series on climbing.com
2)In the pictured setup, if either bolt fails, you fall. If instead the rope were threaded through through the ring, if either of the bolts fail you live (a redundant system)
3) Yes, Frank, I am aware how to use inline bolts for raps. This is not a redundant anchor as the ring, the point that takes all the wear, is not redundant. It is a rope shredding set up though for sure.
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Dan 60D5H411
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Dec 2, 2019
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Colorado Springs, CO
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 3,462
Ryan Dresser wrote: UNdundant. Clearly the winner since our limited English language is not suited to convey every permutation of every idea in a single utterance (which Germans seem to have perfected)
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Andrew Rice
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Dec 2, 2019
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Jan 2016
· Points: 11
Dan 60D5H411 wrote: Clearly the winner since our limited English language is not suited to convey every permutation of every idea in a single utterance (which Germans seem to have perfected) Although the word for redundant in German is "redundant."
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Isaac Gray
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Dec 2, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2016
· Points: 8
What word would you use to describe the opposite of redundant? Where failure of any component of a multi-component system causes catastrophe? I can't seem to think of a word in the English language to describe this concept.
Natural selection.
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Greg D
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Dec 2, 2019
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Here
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 883
Catholic: Nundant Philosopher: One-N-donedant Maga: Trumpdant Astronomer: Singularidant Enviromentalist: Ecoretardant Socialist: Your-single-piece-belongs-to-everyone-dant Alex Zebastian: All-your-single-pieces-belong-to-me-dant. Tradiban: use-your-single-brain-once-dant Excess skin dog: Re-pugdant.
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Andrew Rice
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Dec 3, 2019
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Los Angeles, CA
· Joined Jan 2016
· Points: 11
Greg D wrote: Catholic: Nundant Philosopher: One-N-donedant Maga: Trumpdant Astronomer: Singularidant Enviromentalist: Ecoretardant Socialist: Your-single-piece-belongs-to-everyone-dant Alex Zebastian: All-your-single-pieces-belong-to-me-dant. Tradiban: use-your-single-brain-once-dant Excess skin dog: Re-pugdant. I've Been-there-and-dundant.
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