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Billy Daffin
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Nov 28, 2019
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columbus
· Joined May 2019
· Points: 140
Not sure if this is the best place to post this question but how would y’all go about rigging this? If you can, be anal, details help my poor slow brain cope. My thinking is to put a locker on the hanger up top, run a length of cord through it and clove hitch the other two shuts with the same cord, make a master point below and do the usual opposite and opposed yadda yadda.
It really wouldn’t be worth asking if instead of shuts there were hangers but rigging from above these shuts just makes me ever so uneasy.
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Sam M
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Nov 28, 2019
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Portland, OR
· Joined Oct 2017
· Points: 30
Your system sounds perfectly safe, you seem to know the principles of anchor building so go ahead and apply that however you want. There are many ways to rig that...I'd be lazy and girth hitch two slings to the shuts with a biner on each, but some may be uncomfortable with that.
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Clint Cummins
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Nov 28, 2019
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Palo Alto, CA
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 1,738
Sounds fine, but even better would be to bring 2 hangers, some 3-in-1 oil and a wrench, and replace the cold shuts.
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Peter Blank
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Nov 28, 2019
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Grand Junction, Colorado
· Joined May 2008
· Points: 760
Just for fun, put a #3 in the space between the good bolt and the bush.
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Joe Crawford
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Nov 28, 2019
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Jan 2014
· Points: 105
Clint Cummins wrote: Sounds fine, but even better would be to bring 2 hangers, some 3-in-1 oil and a wrench, and replace the cold shuts. Er, probably not good advice to give to a climber seeking advice about how to make a safe tr anchor on cold shuts. Not a sleight at the OP, just probably better not to encourage newer climbers to jump into hardware replacement and maintenance.
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Clint Cummins
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Nov 29, 2019
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Palo Alto, CA
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 1,738
Fair enough point, but I believe unscrewing a couple of nuts and putting on some hangers should be within the range of most people. And the third bolt/hanger is there as a backup if the nut is sticky and he weakens one of the bolts trying to twist it off (I have broken off badly rusted 3/8" bolts this way unintentionally).
So, Billy, if you choose to try this, if the nut does not move fairly easily with a wrench (after using oil on the threads), don't apply big forces with your wrench - you could weaken the bolt.
Replacing the bolts themselves - that is where it gets very specialized, and I would not recommend that without learning a lot first.
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Ted Pinson
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Nov 29, 2019
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Are there any trees/natural anchor options on the cliff behind you? Those shuts are hella sketch.
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Guy Keesee
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Nov 29, 2019
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Moorpark, CA
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 349
That stuff is just fine! I like to use regular dog bones with the top biner removed. Just slip the bone over each shut. Tie up a sling to go down between the two shuts- so everything is backed up by that.
Clint is correct in his opinion that this S/B fixxed- but IMHO not by you.
Ted.... shuts that are worn like that are stronger than when new- if a sling is set down into the groove. One time I witnessed Mark Blanchard doing pull testing on a bunch of new and completely worn out shuts. Shuts fail by straightening out, not braking. Once a groove forms - a sling - not a biner- can slide down into the groove and that stays in place. A biner is larger then the groove and will keep moving as it straightens out. But the good news. Even almost completely worn out shuts proved to be as strong as some 1/4 hangers from BITD. Billy.... where the heck is that?
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Gunkiemike
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Nov 29, 2019
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 3,732
Guy Keesee wrote: That stuff is just fine! I like to use regular dog bones with the top biner removed. Just slip the bone over each shut. Tie up a sling to go down between the two shuts- so everything is backed up by that. Clever idea. But I'd use the bottom hole of the draw on the shut for a snugger fit.
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Billy Daffin
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Nov 29, 2019
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columbus
· Joined May 2019
· Points: 140
Guy Keesee wrote: That stuff is just fine! I like to use regular dog bones with the top biner removed. Just slip the bone over each shut. Tie up a sling to go down between the two shuts- so everything is backed up by that.
Clint is correct in his opinion that this S/B fixxed- but IMHO not by you.
Ted.... shuts that are worn like that are stronger than when new- if a sling is set down into the groove. One time I witnessed Mark Blanchard doing pull testing on a bunch of new and completely worn out shuts. Shuts fail by straightening out, not braking. Once a groove forms - a sling - not a biner- can slide down into the groove and that stays in place. A biner is larger then the groove and will keep moving as it straightens out. But the good news. Even almost completely worn out shuts proved to be as strong as some 1/4 hangers from BITD. Billy.... where the heck is that? Thanks for the advice, I’ve never thought to put dog bones over shuts. It’s in Cheaha State Park Alabama
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Billy Daffin
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Nov 29, 2019
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columbus
· Joined May 2019
· Points: 140
Ted Pinson wrote: Are there any trees/natural anchor options on the cliff behind you? Those shuts are hella sketch There are plenty of bombproof trees, I was really more interested in what would theoretically be the best plan. I would likely just sling some of those trees and rap down though.
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