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Sport climbing near Boulder CO

Original Post
Uri Shapira · · Kibbutz HaHotrim Israel · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

Hi everyone, I will visit Boulder CO for a week mid March and I would love to have a taste of the sport climbing this area has to offer. It will be a tiny bite since I only have a weekend plus maybe one day in the middle of the week. This highlights the importance of the good advice I am seeking from the knowledgeable folks out there. Here are my questions:
(1) Can you point out a few (non-slab) sport crags close to Boulder which are climbable mid March and feature good 5.11's?
(2) Will you potentially be around and would like to go climbing?

Best
Uri

Petroclimbsagain · · Colorado · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 20

Check out Upper Dream Canyon, there are several good South and West facing crags, and several sport climbs of great quality.  

Edited to include...  And march is still too early for the full frontal nuditity experience, unless you happen to run into some polar bears taking a dip in the river.  

Isaac Mauro · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

I second upper dream, my favorite sport climbing in boulder. The trail might be snowy, but its a short approach. Also be careful not to fall into the creek, the trail kind of goes straight through it. Lower dream is also pretty good. There are a lot of slab pitches, but they are of the highest quality, so I wouldn't write them off. Crux pitch of Hunky Monkey, 2nd pitch of tales of power, and the Scientist( lower dream) are all some of the best slab pitches I have ever climbed, totally worth it. Also might want to bring a super light rack, some of the routes have small traditionally protected sections. 

Chris Johnson · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 15

Check out Plotinus Wall. South facing, Fun routes. You'll also get to walk past Boulder Falls.

David House · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2001 · Points: 473

Access to Plotinus via Boulder Falls trail is closed again. The city trail access map says it is related to ongoing rock mitigation work in Boulder Canyon. One could jump the fence, but people have been ticketed.

Uri:  For non-slabby 5.11 sport climbing near Boulder I would actually recommend Clear Creek Canyon over Boulder Canyon/Dream Canyon. There are routes facing all directions so you can chase the sun/shade depending on the weather which is pretty unpredictable here in March. 

Ralph Swansen · · Boulder CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 851

Upper Dream is very slabby.
Plotinus is less slabby

Clear Creek is the least slabby. 

Matt B · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 492

Definitely check out Plotinus! Upper Dream is excellent, but tends to be quite slabby.

Another good option in BoCan would be Animal World (Animal Magnetism is excellent).

Uri Shapira · · Kibbutz HaHotrim Israel · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

Thanks guys! I quickly checked online the reference you gave. Note, I will only have quick draws (no gear).
(1) Plotinus seems cool.
(2) Clear Creek has many crags. Which one will you recommend for 5.11's sport climbs?
(3) Dream canyon (upper and lower) have multiple crags as well: Can you name a couple with good sport 5.11's?

Many thanks for your replies, your effort is much appreciated!!!

Isaac Mauro · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

In clear Creek, wall of the nineties is my favorite, lots to climb for the 5.11 climber, and also some good 12- if you feel like pushing it a bit. Definitely check it out. 

Upper and lower dream have different parking and can't be accessed from eachothers parking, but in each area all the crags are within a 10 min hike for the most part. For upper dream, oceanic wall has a number of really high quality 5.11. It's the first crags you walk up to, and it is also the least slabby overall.

Lower dream, you can't go wrong with plotinus, also sort of the first cliff you come to after walking past the falls. It's home to the scientist, which is one of the best routes in the canyon imo. Having a .5 is nice, but I think it is reasonable without one so don't let the comments discourage you. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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