Suggestions for alpine draw biners

Daniel Chambo wrote: Also got a Dyon just to try out and like it a lot as well, would be fine with it in place of the ange L

How does the gate feel?? 

I don't get why the Dyon's aren't more popular. The nose is super thin and not bulky at all. I've been on the fence about trying them until I heard some feedback. I'll buy a few and try them out. 

The Petzl Ange biners are a little more expensive but I really like them for my alpine draws. You can choose between the Large or the Small depending which one feels better. Ultimately I would just highly recommend going with a noseless/keylock carabiner.

I positively hate the Anges. I find that when clipping by pushing the rope up against the single wire gate, the carabiner wants to rotate to the side. With regular wire-gates or solid-gate 'biners, the wider surface makes the carabiner much more stable when clipping. That's my experience with them anyway. 

Brandon R wrote: I positively hate the Anges. I find that when clipping by pushing the rope up against the single wire gate, the carabiner wants to rotate to the side. With regular wire-gates or solid-gate 'biners, the wider surface makes the carabiner much more stable when clipping. That's my experience with them anyway. 

I'm the same way....they do have a video that shows an alternate wat to clip that apparently works better with the Ange, but i'm too lazy to learn a new way.

Brandon R wrote: I positively hate the Anges. I find that when clipping by pushing the rope up against the single wire gate, the carabiner wants to rotate to the side. With regular wire-gates or solid-gate 'biners, the wider surface makes the carabiner much more stable when clipping. That's my experience with them anyway. 

If you don't push the rope through with authority (ie a slight pull of rope down into the basket) and just go to slide the rope between the gate and nose you can actually have it snag on the bulb at the end of the wire and then be pushed back up and out by the spring pressure.

I had this happen when I had an awkward clip across my body, looked back over and watched it happen. Partner (who owned the ange) said he had them mysteriously "unclip" on a route before and that must have been it.

Solution is to just clip properly of course. 

Michael S wrote:

How does the gate feel?? 

I don't get why the Dyon's aren't more popular. The nose is super thin and not bulky at all. I've been on the fence about trying them until I heard some feedback. I'll buy a few and try them out. 

Dyon gate feels good, quite snappy, medium tension.  I used to have the old style photons for cams and the gate action was very inconsistent, much better with the nano 22 I use now, and a couple new style photons I have. Only have 1 Dyon so hard to say, but in general seems like Camp has stepped it up in the QC department.  Nice thing about biners (as opposed to say, climbing shoes) is very low investment to try 1 or 2.  

Daniel Chambo wrote:

Dyon gate feels good, quite snappy, medium tension.  I used to have the old style photons for cams and the gate action was very inconsistent, much better with the nano 22 I use now, and a couple new style photons I have. Only have 1 Dyon so hard to say, but in general seems like Camp has stepped it up in the QC department.  Nice thing about biners (as opposed to say, climbing shoes) is very low investment to try 1 or 2.  

I probably have 50-60 Dyons, every single one is exactly the same, snappy yet easy to slap a rope through, easy to rack (I used them for almost all my racking biners), prob best biner on the market at the moment...and tough to beat $8 for a quality biner.

Christian Hesch wrote:

I probably have 50-60 Dyons, every single one is exactly the same, snappy yet easy to slap a rope through, easy to rack (I used them for almost all my racking biners), prob best biner on the market at the moment...and tough to beat $8 for a quality biner.

Could you please share a link of where to buy these for $8? CAMP sells them for $14.95

 keep an eye on sales, they pop up all the time. the Clymb had them for $7.58/ea just a couple days ago. STP had them for $10/ea, and they were often subject to the "$25 off of $125 or more" sales.